I have a question for my fellow woodworkers out there. I have a TS with
a long table, and a router mounted in the table. When I need to use the
router, I move the fence over, add a sacrificial fence with dust
collection, and run the wood against that when I want to make a
moulding, or cut along the length of the wood.

Is this a common thing? It just seemed obvious to me, but I am seeing
products (like one from Jessem) which are fences specifically for table
mounted routers.

(This method works great for me. I even made the sacrificial fence
width such that the measuring tape on the fence bar can be easily used)

Rob Mitchell wrote in news:3MlHd.45073
:

I have a question for my fellow woodworkers out there. I have a TS with
a long table, and a router mounted in the table. When I need to use the
router, I move the fence over, add a sacrificial fence with dust
collection, and run the wood against that when I want to make a
moulding, or cut along the length of the wood.

Is this a common thing? It just seemed obvious to me, but I am seeing
products (like one from Jessem) which are fences specifically for table
mounted routers.


If you had access to the WoodWorks television broadcasts, hosted by David
Marks, you'd see that your setup and his have much in common. My neighbor
has his Unisaw setup in much the same manner, except that the router and
tablesaw have an Incra system in common.

I built my router table prior to purchasing the cabinet saw, or I might
have been tempted to use a setup such as yours.

Of course, Jessum and others are going to offer products to seperate you
from your cash. That's why they're in business. Your choice on taking
them up on their generous offers. ;-)

Patriarch

"Rob Mitchell" wrote in message
...
I have a question for my fellow woodworkers out there. I have a TS with
a long table, and a router mounted in the table. When I need to use the
router, I move the fence over, add a sacrificial fence with dust
collection, and run the wood against that when I want to make a
moulding, or cut along the length of the wood.

A fence for the router table is any freshly jointed piece of scrap at my
house. Clamp, hang the hose on the strategically placed screw and fire 'er
up.

Watch "The Router Workshop" on PBS for lessons on micro adjustments
(hammer) and leave that expensive fence out of the way where it can't get
hurt.

"Rob Mitchell" wrote in message
...
I have a question for my fellow woodworkers out there. I have a TS with
a long table, and a router mounted in the table. When I need to use the
router, I move the fence over, add a sacrificial fence with dust
collection, and run the wood against that when I want to make a
moulding, or cut along the length of the wood.

Is this a common thing? It just seemed obvious to me, but I am seeing
products (like one from Jessem) which are fences specifically for table
mounted routers.

(This method works great for me. I even made the sacrificial fence
width such that the measuring tape on the fence bar can be easily used)


It's quite common Rob. I do the same thing with my saw. You might want to
google a bit for ideas on ways to modify your existing sacrificial fence to
allow for offsets to pick up the freshly routed edge of a workpiece and
offer support across the entire length of the workpiece. Not an issue for
some routes, but it can be a significant issue for others.
--

-Mike-

Rob Mitchell wrote:

Is this a common thing? It just seemed obvious to me, but I am seeing
products (like one from Jessem) which are fences specifically for table
mounted routers.

I did this all the time with my former saw, and it worked great.

Lurkers should know that the sacrificial fence is important, because the
work should never run between the bit and fence.

Barry

I did this all the time with my former saw, and it worked great.

Lurkers should know that the sacrificial fence is important, because the
work should never run between the bit and fence.

Barry


I don't follow. Like when you would use the RT to mill a dado or groove?

-Steve

Stephen M wrote:

I don't follow. Like when you would use the RT to mill a dado or groove?



Dados and grooves are OK, I'm talking edges.

I've seen newbies run a board between the bit and fence when forming an
edge. The work can get shot off the table like it's shot from a cannon!

While this may seem obvious to some, I've seen it attempted more than
once, so I thought I'd mention it again. G

Barry

"B a r r y" wrote in message
om...
Stephen M wrote:

I don't follow. Like when you would use the RT to mill a dado or groove?



Dados and grooves are OK, I'm talking edges.

I've seen newbies run a board between the bit and fence when forming an
edge. The work can get shot off the table like it's shot from a cannon!

While this may seem obvious to some, I've seen it attempted more than
once, so I thought I'd mention it again. G

It is difficult to believe unless you have actually done it. The bit just
grabs it and fires it right out.
I haven't tried it and am not going to, but I wonder if you came in from the
left if it would be more stable. Maybe then it would shoot up into your
face instead of out to the side; which would be rather worse.

OK I understand now.

I didn't get it because I can't immagine doing that. It would lust launch
the wood :-)

-Steve


"toller" wrote in message
...

"B a r r y" wrote in
message
om...
Stephen M wrote:

I don't follow. Like when you would use the RT to mill a dado or
groove?



Dados and grooves are OK, I'm talking edges.

I've seen newbies run a board between the bit and fence when forming an
edge. The work can get shot off the table like it's shot from a cannon!

While this may seem obvious to some, I've seen it attempted more than
once, so I thought I'd mention it again. G

It is difficult to believe unless you have actually done it. The bit just
grabs it and fires it right out.
I haven't tried it and am not going to, but I wonder if you came in from
the
left if it would be more stable. Maybe then it would shoot up into your
face instead of out to the side; which would be rather worse.

Stephen M wrote:
OK I understand now.

I didn't get it because I can't immagine doing that. It would lust launch
the wood :-)

According to a local ww'ing teacher, it comes up ALL the time!

The wood goes between the fence and the blade on a TS, so some newbies
assume that the same goes for router and shaper tables. G

Barry

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 19:05:15 GMT, B a r r y wrote:
Stephen M wrote:
OK I understand now.

I didn't get it because I can't immagine doing that. It would lust launch
the wood :-)

According to a local ww'ing teacher, it comes up ALL the time!

The wood goes between the fence and the blade on a TS, so some newbies
assume that the same goes for router and shaper tables. G

You know, in a not-thinking-about-forces kind of a way, I guess that
does make some sort of sense. I guess that's why training is
important when dealing with fast-moving sharp spinny things.

If you don't want to lauch the piece, you should almost always feed against
the rotation. If you feed with the rotation for some reason, take a very
shallow bite and use a featherboard.

Steve
Still have all my fingers.

"toller" wrote in message
...

"B a r r y" wrote in
message om...
Stephen M wrote:

I don't follow. Like when you would use the RT to mill a dado or groove?



Dados and grooves are OK, I'm talking edges.

I've seen newbies run a board between the bit and fence when forming an
edge. The work can get shot off the table like it's shot from a cannon!

While this may seem obvious to some, I've seen it attempted more than
once, so I thought I'd mention it again. G

It is difficult to believe unless you have actually done it. The bit just
grabs it and fires it right out.
I haven't tried it and am not going to, but I wonder if you came in from
the left if it would be more stable. Maybe then it would shoot up into
your face instead of out to the side; which would be rather worse.

Steven and Gail Peterson wrote:
If you don't want to lauch the piece, you should almost always feed against
the rotation. If you feed with the rotation for some reason, take a very
shallow bite and use a featherboard.

Right!

However, trapping the board between the fence and bit often launches the
board regardless of rotation. The fence allows the bit to gain serious
traction, resulting in something the military should investigate. G

Barry