I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4" plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

Gino wrote...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with
a nice simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden
3/4" plywood core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging
at all.

Is the doable, and will it work?

What if it rains?

Jim

On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 16:49:12 GMT, Jim Wilson wrote:

Gino wrote...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with
a nice simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden
3/4" plywood core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging
at all.

Is the doable, and will it work?

What if it rains?

The gate will have a nice beaten brass cap, I'll use exterior grade plywood and
the gate will be finished with a quality clear UV sealer.

I can even get that fancy green plywood used for concrete forming and truck
beds.
It's manufactured near here, but pricy. I have a buddy who works there who can
get me a sweet deal if I ask him.

I thought of a chunk of heavy sheet metal, maybe aluminum from a scrap yard but
haven't checked around.

"Gino" wrote in message
...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

Usually the plywood will twist once the humidity changes (more than a Z
brace door) imo. Baltic birch (interior glue) or a marine grade multi-ply
would give you a better chance of success than ACX/CDX.

On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 12:24:58 -0500, "Eric Ryder"
wrote:


"Gino" wrote in message
.. .

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

Usually the plywood will twist once the humidity changes (more than a Z
brace door) imo. Baltic birch (interior glue) or a marine grade multi-ply
would give you a better chance of success than ACX/CDX.

What do you think of thinner marine plywood.
Maybe 3/8s or half inch.
I could move up to full 1 inch thick cedar boards both sides.
The plywood might have a tough time warping but would it provide the strength
for no sag.

I was considering a few nice beaten copper bands across the gate.
I beat the hell out of copper water pipe until it's flat to make these.
I could insert a flat steel bar into the almost flattened water pipe for more
strength.
The more copper the better anyway. It gives me the look I want.

Sounds heavy.
-j

"Gino" wrote in message
...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 09:55:05 -0800, "J" wrote:

Sounds heavy.
-j
grin
That is the main idea. I want it to look as heavy as possible.
To match the big gate posts and archway. I'm going for an old Japanese style.
I want the gate to feel substantial when you open it as well.


"Gino" wrote in message
.. .

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

1" boards glued back to back and side to side aren't going to sag much (does
a table sag side to side?). You can do without the plywood. Why not just use
8/4 cedar and be done with it?

-j

"Gino" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 12:24:58 -0500, "Eric Ryder"

wrote:


"Gino" wrote in message
.. .

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with
a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden
3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging
at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it
together

Usually the plywood will twist once the humidity changes (more than a Z
brace door) imo. Baltic birch (interior glue) or a marine grade
multi-ply
would give you a better chance of success than ACX/CDX.

What do you think of thinner marine plywood.
Maybe 3/8s or half inch.
I could move up to full 1 inch thick cedar boards both sides.
The plywood might have a tough time warping but would it provide the
strength
for no sag.

I was considering a few nice beaten copper bands across the gate.
I beat the hell out of copper water pipe until it's flat to make these.
I could insert a flat steel bar into the almost flattened water pipe for
more
strength.
The more copper the better anyway. It gives me the look I want.

old japanese gates didn't use plywood.

-j

"Gino" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 09:55:05 -0800, "J" wrote:

Sounds heavy.
-j
grin
That is the main idea. I want it to look as heavy as possible.
To match the big gate posts and archway. I'm going for an old Japanese
style.
I want the gate to feel substantial when you open it as well.


"Gino" wrote in message
.. .

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with
a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden
3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging
at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it
together

On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:26:53 -0800, "J" wrote:

1" boards glued back to back and side to side aren't going to sag much (does
a table sag side to side?). You can do without the plywood. Why not just use
8/4 cedar and be done with it?

Expensive here. And I don't have the heavy duty clamps.

On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:27:41 -0800, "J" wrote:

old japanese gates didn't use plywood.

Or Titebond III

On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 08:30:33 -0800, Gino
wrote:


I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4" plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together


sounds like massive delamination waiting to happen.

I just finished building a gate that will stand the test of time and kids
swinging on it.

The posts are 3" steel tubing - two per side - welded together - buried 2'
in concrete.
The street facing fence and gate sections are 1"x6" Cedar slats screwed to a
1" square tubing frame.
The gate has two sections. Section one is only 14" wide and is held
stationary by a cane bolt.
The main gate section is 40" wide and is also 1" square tubing. The hinges
are weld-on with zerks for lubrication.

This gate is so strong you can tell the kids "Get out of the house and go
play ON the gate!"

Dave


"Gino" wrote in message
...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

The Borgs and LeeValley sell a "gate kit". The kit consists of 4 reinforced
angle brackets sized to accept 2x4's for the gate framing. 2 of the
brackets have door hinges attached. This kit typically sells for $30. I
have probably built 5 or 6 gates with this gate kit and the gates are still
quite sturdy and NO SAG. The gat goes together twice as fast as those with
pickets, z-bracing on the back a bunch of nuts and bolts.


"Gino" wrote in message
...

I would like to make a nice 3 foot wide by 6 foot high solid gate with a
nice
simple look that includes a small window near the top.
I was considering 1x6 x3/4" thick cedar boards vertical on a hidden 3/4"
plywood
core hiding the plywood edges with cedar inserts.
This would give me a nice 2 inch plus thick gate with no cross bridging at
all.

Is the doable, and will it work?
I was going to use homemade copper hardware and glue to holed it together

"Gino" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:26:53 -0800, "J" wrote:

1" boards glued back to back and side to side aren't going to sag much
(does
a table sag side to side?). You can do without the plywood. Why not just
use
8/4 cedar and be done with it?

Expensive here. And I don't have the heavy duty clamps.



The plywood WILL warp, the cedar boards will not stop it. Most likely it
will twist.

"Gino" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:27:41 -0800, "J" wrote:

old japanese gates didn't use plywood.

Or Titebond III

How bout laying two layers of cedar boards diagionally, opposing each other,
no ply between, glued or screwed together.
Then border it with whatever or nothing. It won't sag and it won't warp.

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 10:36:29 -0500, "Battleax"
wrote:


"Gino" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:27:41 -0800, "J" wrote:

old japanese gates didn't use plywood.

Or Titebond III

How bout laying two layers of cedar boards diagionally, opposing each other,
no ply between, glued or screwed together.
Then border it with whatever or nothing. It won't sag and it won't warp.



yes it will.

On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 09:45:04 -0700, s wrote:

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 10:36:29 -0500, "Battleax"
wrote:


"Gino" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:27:41 -0800, "J" wrote:

old japanese gates didn't use plywood.

Or Titebond III

How bout laying two layers of cedar boards diagionally, opposing each other,
no ply between, glued or screwed together.
Then border it with whatever or nothing. It won't sag and it won't warp.


yes it will.

I've decided to weld up a steel frame and sandwich it between the boards each
side.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.