Projects going out one door, and in another:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directl ink

Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise
and tenons this afternoon.

This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to
repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it
does to finish it.

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mar 19, 6:33*pm, Swingman wrote:
Projects going out one door, and in another:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...dShopGoldbergH...

Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise
and tenons this afternoon.

This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to
repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it
does to finish it.

I dunno.... maybe you missed at least part of your calling. No
kidding, but maybe you should think about (just saying, here...)
setting up furniture shop where you teach how to do that kind of fine
workmanship. I can actually see you teaching that kind of work if you
had willing students, and where else in our part of the world would
someone be able to learn those kinds of skills?

Robert

it takes less time to fabricate one than it

does to finish it.



Amen to dat. I often make 3 or 4 of whatever I am building. Then I'll finish one right away but the others always sit until I get inspired or have more time.

I guess if I was just spraying in a blow and go method maybe it would be easier but I labor over every piece during assembly doing methodical near final sanding. Then once assembled lots of hand prep work. Then usually hand applied rubbed\wiped finish of some sort which including any dying and waxing might be 6 or 8 steps, ie 6 or 8 complete workovers of the entire surface of the piece.

On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink



Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink




Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.

Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/20/13 6:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink





Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.

Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?


You could save a few steps and use this...
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Ad.../dp/B000KKIR0A


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/20/2013 6:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/20/13 6:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink






Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.

Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?


You could save a few steps and use this...
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Ad.../dp/B000KKIR0A

AAMOF, got some left over from those chairs I just 3D pri ... built.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.

Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?

No need for the BIN. Save yourself a few bucks and thin down some old
latex. Should work great if you put it on correctly. The walnut faux
should really stand out nice on that.

--

-Mike-

On 3/20/2013 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink




So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?

As with most finishes that are rubbed on the first coat tends to be the
easiest. The subsequent coats tend to be the ones that are hard to rub
on evenly. I am finally mastering Old Masters gel varnish, local
conditions really really apply as to whether you have to rub out a coat
before proceeding to the next. The guide lines for doing so are
specifically, Sometimes you do, Sometimes you don't.


The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?

On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:

So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?

Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
.... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.

The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
that by the truckload from ATOH.

Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
added to the delivery time.

The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?

Yep, the frame for the inlay will be Uncle Tete's (RIP) AR walnut ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/20/2013 6:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


Let me guess. Is the spare piece in the foreground with only one tenon
used to "mask" the leg while you apply the finish?

On 3/21/2013 10:47 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 3/20/2013 6:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:

The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.

First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink



Let me guess. Is the spare piece in the foreground with only one tenon
used to "mask" the leg while you apply the finish?

Close ... it was there to use as an edge in helping to precisely tear
off the tape that is indeed masking the mortises.

Works much better, and with no danger of scarring the stock, than a
razor blade.

I also left it there because it does show the contrast between the
oil/poly application, and the unfinished wood.

IME, there is nothing like this type of finish for walnut, as years of
gun stock makers, using similar products, will attest.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:

So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?

Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.

The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
that by the truckload from ATOH.

Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
added to the delivery time.

The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?

Yep, the frame for the inlay will be Uncle Tete's (RIP) AR walnut ...




OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
immediately.


Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
similar to wiping off a wax haze?

On 3/21/2013 11:25 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:

So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?

Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.

The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
that by the truckload from ATOH.

Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
added to the delivery time.

OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
immediately.

Two different products:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004

Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
similar to wiping off a wax haze?

To an extent ... no haze, but Sam was apparently noted as saying that he
rubbed the poly/oil/wax product (usually used for the last two coats,
but also great refresher coats each year) hard enough that the friction
got the part hot.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/21/2013 11:48 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/21/2013 11:25 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:

So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?

Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.

The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
that by the truckload from ATOH.

Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
added to the delivery time.

OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
immediately.

Two different products:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004

Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
similar to wiping off a wax haze?

To an extent ... no haze, but Sam was apparently noted as saying that he
rubbed the poly/oil/wax product (usually used for the last two coats,
but also great refresher coats each year) hard enough that the friction
got the part hot.



Ok, I think I am up to speed now. ;~)

IIRC some of the hand rubbing/buffing was done literally with the bare
hand, no rag, hence the hand feeling the heat.

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 6:33:56 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Projects going out one door, and in another:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directl ink



Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise

and tenons this afternoon.



This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to

repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it

does to finish it.



The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as

always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.



--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.

Larry

On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 6:33:56 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Projects going out one door, and in another:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directl ink



Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise

and tenons this afternoon.



This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to

repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it

does to finish it.



The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as

always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.



--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.

Larry


For your viewing pleasure, the formula straight from the mans mouth.
Look at about 17.5 minutes into the interview. He gives a couple of
formulas. The one I always remember is 1/3 varnish, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3
Tung Oil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKIoezZUK6s

On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:

I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.


Larry, in the interest of time, and the uncertainty of getting fresh
materials to make it these days (and certainly not $$ because buying the
stuff is expensive, but it goes a long way, and I'd rather not take the
chance of any drying issues since I don't get paid until it's finished),
I buy the "Sam Maloof Finish" from Rockler.

I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.

I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
any event.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Friday, March 22, 2013 9:04:22 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:



I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.





Larry, in the interest of time, and the uncertainty of getting fresh

materials to make it these days (and certainly not $$ because buying the

stuff is expensive, but it goes a long way, and I'd rather not take the

chance of any drying issues since I don't get paid until it's finished),

I buy the "Sam Maloof Finish" from Rockler.



I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since

I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps

in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.



I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,

but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in

any event.



--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Thanks, Karl. That will be very helpful!

On 3/22/2013 9:04 AM, Swingman wrote:

I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.

I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
any event.

Larry, as promised, this is just a progress report, not yet finished.

Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
test strip. (not much to see yet)

This would be the minimum number of coats of the basic product, which
would be followed by at least two coats with the product that contains
wax. These last coats are were you would get the most sheen.

Stay tuned ... I only have a cell phone to take photos these days, so I
wanted to take it the sunlight, but alas, no sun yet today.

Will add a couple of more basic coats, then at least two of the final
coats and report back here.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...14857879307954

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:

Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
test strip. (not much to see yet)

Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...62999005691618

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...62999005691618



--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"Gramp's shop" wrote in
:

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...ShopGoldbergHa
llTable#5858762999005691618

I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote in
:

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...ShopGoldbergHa
llTable#5858762999005691618

I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...

Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?

If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
unfinished.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 04/01/2013 03:05 PM, Swingman wrote:
Han wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote in
:

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...ShopGoldbergHa
llTable#5858762999005691618

I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...

Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?

If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
unfinished.

Oxidation - a slow burn.



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 4/1/2013 5:05 PM, Swingman wrote:
Han wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote in
:

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...ShopGoldbergHa
llTable#5858762999005691618

I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...

Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?

If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
unfinished.

Funny you should mention this, the desk top cherry is darkening pretty
quickly in the garage facing the morning sun. Another narrow piece that
was being facing north in the garage had a couple of pieces of masking
tape on it. This was being kept for shelves. In just over 4 weeks the
wood has darkened except where the masking tape was and it would not
sand out. ;~( Fortunately one would have to look for it to see it.

I have low-E glass in my windows so the cherry getting the morning sun
inside the house is not darkening so quickly.

Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:

Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
test strip. (not much to see yet)

Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...62999005691618

Love that finish Karl!

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote in
:

Han wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote in
:

Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a
coat or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to
keep it natural.

On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:



Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
maple

test strip. (not much to see yet)



Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...odShopGoldberg
Ha llTable#5858762999005691618

I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very,
very slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss.
She'll take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it
is. And I must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I
thought it would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little
hesitant to start experimenting with bleach ...

Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied
already?

If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it
lightens up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting
around unfinished.

Yes it has been laying around due to general inertia, whatever. I do
hope it'll get lighter upon final sanding, but I guess that I'll have to
finish the exposed parts then immediately ... I'm waiting for the Sam
Maloof finishes to arrive from Rockler (thanks, Karl, for the
recommendation and links!!). So, I'll be safe from having to work on it
for another day grin.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Mon, 01 Apr 2013 11:35:48 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 3/22/2013 9:04 AM, Swingman wrote:

I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.

I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
any event.

Larry, as promised, this is just a progress report, not yet finished.

Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
test strip. (not much to see yet)

This would be the minimum number of coats of the basic product, which
would be followed by at least two coats with the product that contains
wax. These last coats are were you would get the most sheen.

Stay tuned ... I only have a cell phone to take photos these days, so I
wanted to take it the sunlight, but alas, no sun yet today.

Will add a couple of more basic coats, then at least two of the final
coats and report back here.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...14857879307954

Love your work , and here I'm stuck with trying to figure my
girlfriend's smart hot water tank. The smart card says it's a bad
lower element, my Fluke meter says the element is fine, My guess is a
bad circuit board. But I love that table.

Mike M

Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the
splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:15:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the

splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:





https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink





--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Looking good, Karl. Question: Is the center veneer?

Larry

On Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:15:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink --

That looks great. Really like the book-matching and grain exposure, too.

Sonny

On 5/26/2013 3:15 PM, Swingman wrote:
Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the
splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink





Looks great! and I am thinking that would make a beautiful kitchen
cabinet door!

Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258

(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258

(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)

That is a pretty little thing. Obviously not an industrial piece. Looks
nice!

On 7/12/2013 3:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258


(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)


Very nice Karl....always well done.

On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258


(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)

As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone stir
the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or "derivative".

It'll have to be somebody else though. I'm hoping my own work gets to be
half as good as that someday; maybe good enough for someone to bother
insulting me too

I like this one a lot.

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258


(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured
by delivery time)

As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone
stir the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or
"derivative".

No - you should probably read more of this group than the one episode that
you make reference to. There was no real need for you to stir up that ****
Greg. But - maybe you feel better for having done it...

--

-Mike-

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...665 628096258


(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)

As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone stir
the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or "derivative".

It'll have to be somebody else though. I'm hoping my own work gets to be
half as good as that someday; maybe good enough for someone to bother insulting me too

I like this one a lot.

Thanks.

I've built a dozen or so similar "hall" tables for folks in the past, but
this one is my favorite so far of this particular style, due mainly to its
proportions.

In this case the height, width and depth of the table, as well as the
amount of leg taper and inlay and spline material, was specified by the
customer, I simply built it to her spec.

So, the logical response to any such self styled critics you mention is
that when doing "custom" work, the CUSTOMer dictates the design ... IOW,
the only person who has to like it is the one who paid for it

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)