I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air filtration
system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to make a high pitched
squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces in the picture (bearings?)
are getting hot. Is there any way to lubricate, or salvage the motor, or
do I need to get a new (used?) motor? This thing has had many, many hours
on it, since I use it too to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe
it gratitude, but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved
somehow, that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air
filtration system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to
make a high pitched squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces
in the picture (bearings?) are getting hot. Is there any way to
lubricate, or salvage the motor, or do I need to get a new (used?)
motor? This thing has had many, many hours on it, since I use it too
to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe it gratitude, but can
afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved somehow, that would
be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

Most likely the bearings Han. They are most likely replaceable for small
dollars. Pull the motor, remove the bearings and let your fingers do the
walking to find a local supplier. Take one down with you to get the right
replacement. You can try to lube them with a little oil, but chances are
that won't be a very long lived fix.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air
filtration system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to
make a high pitched squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces
in the picture (bearings?) are getting hot. Is there any way to
lubricate, or salvage the motor, or do I need to get a new (used?)
motor? This thing has had many, many hours on it, since I use it too
to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe it gratitude, but can
afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved somehow, that would
be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

Most likely the bearings Han. They are most likely replaceable for
small dollars. Pull the motor, remove the bearings and let your
fingers do the walking to find a local supplier. Take one down with
you to get the right replacement. You can try to lube them with a
little oil, but chances are that won't be a very long lived fix.

Thanks, Mike!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air
filtration system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to
make a high pitched squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces
in the picture (bearings?) are getting hot. Is there any way to
lubricate, or salvage the motor, or do I need to get a new (used?)
motor? This thing has had many, many hours on it, since I use it
too to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe it gratitude,
but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved somehow,
that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

Most likely the bearings Han. They are most likely replaceable for
small dollars. Pull the motor, remove the bearings and let your
fingers do the walking to find a local supplier. Take one down with
you to get the right replacement. You can try to lube them with a
little oil, but chances are that won't be a very long lived fix.

Thanks, Mike!!

No problem Han. This is a very common fix. Having looked at your picture
over on the binaries group, it will be an easy job. Just remove the nuts
from the end cap screws (they are long screws that go the length of the
motor), and carefully pull it apart. The bearings should knock out with a
dowel or the likes, from the inside. Likewise, insert the new ones from the
outside, just being careful to seat them as squarely as you can before
beating them in. It'll all be good for probably under $20 - even in NJ!

--

-Mike-

"Han" wrote

I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air
filtration
system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to make a high
pitched
squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces in the picture
(bearings?)
are getting hot. Is there any way to lubricate, or salvage the
motor, or
do I need to get a new (used?) motor? This thing has had many, many
hours
on it, since I use it too to circulate the air in the basement. So
I owe
it gratitude, but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be
saved
somehow, that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!
--------------------------------------------------------------
Get an aerosol can of light grade oil (3-N-1, sewing machine, etc)
along with the plastic straw that serves as an extension.

See if you can feed the straw in past the motor housing(s) so you can
squirt some oil on the bearing(s).

Sometimes you can, sometimes you can't, it's a crap shoot.

If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:


If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.


A new motor is a lot more expensive than new bearings Lew. Especially from
Grainger.

--

-Mike-

In article , Mike Marlow
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:


If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.


A new motor is a lot more expensive than new bearings Lew. Especially from
Grainger.

A used furnace fan can be had cheap or free... The one in my shop is 12
years out of a 30 YO furnace, and still runs fine. It was free.

--
I used to like fishing because I thought it had some larger significance. Now I
like fishing because it¹s the one thing I can think of that probably doesn¹t. *
John Gierach

Lew Hodgett wrote:


If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.
==================================
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

A new motor is a lot more expensive than new bearings Lew.
Especially from Grainger.
======================================
If price is controlling issue, **** can the whole shebang and buy
a 20" box fan at end of season price of about $10 from a big box
store and get a beer.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:


If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.
==================================
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

A new motor is a lot more expensive than new bearings Lew.
Especially from Grainger.
======================================
If price is controlling issue, **** can the whole shebang and buy
a 20" box fan at end of season price of about $10 from a big box
store and get a beer.


No one said it was the controlling issue. It's just a factor. Don't see
why you don't consider replacing bearings to be a suitable address of the
problem. They are meant to be replaced, after all...

--

-Mike-

Lew Hodgett wrote:

If price is controlling issue, **** can the whole shebang and buy
a 20" box fan at end of season price of about $10 from a big box
store and get a beer.


"Mike Marlow" wrote:
==========================

No one said it was the controlling issue. It's just a factor.
Don't see why you don't consider replacing bearings to be a suitable
address of the problem. They are meant to be replaced, after all...
---------------------------------------------
If they are sleeve bearings, NBD.

If they are ball bearings, you really need an arbor press to avoid
brinelling
the bearings during installation.

$10 for a box fan is a far more simple solution.

Lew

On 9/26/2012 8:19 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:


If not, get a new motor from WW Grainger.
==================================
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

A new motor is a lot more expensive than new bearings Lew.
Especially from Grainger.
======================================
If price is controlling issue, **** can the whole shebang and buy
a 20" box fan at end of season price of about $10 from a big box
store and get a beer.


No one said it was the controlling issue. It's just a factor. Don't see
why you don't consider replacing bearings to be a suitable address of the
problem. They are meant to be replaced, after all...


Not only that, there's the satisfaction that comes from, Hey! I fixed it.

Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air filtration
system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to make a high pitched
squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces in the picture (bearings?)
are getting hot. Is there any way to lubricate, or salvage the motor, or
do I need to get a new (used?) motor? This thing has had many, many hours
on it, since I use it too to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe
it gratitude, but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved
somehow, that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

I got mine from a local AC company. You might get a replacement
motor (used) very cheap this way. If you are ever down in Georgia I
have a spare unit you can have.

--
G.W. Ross

Any wire cut to length will be too short.

On 9/26/2012 4:28 PM, Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air filtration
system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to make a high pitched
squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces in the picture (bearings?)
are getting hot. Is there any way to lubricate, or salvage the motor, or
do I need to get a new (used?) motor? This thing has had many, many hours
on it, since I use it too to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe
it gratitude, but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved
somehow, that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!


'
Suggest double checking that the fan is attached securely. Items that
do not have a firm grip can make lots of different noises.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 9/26/2012 4:28 PM, Han wrote:
I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air
filtration system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to
make a high pitched squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces
in the picture (bearings?) are getting hot. Is there any way to
lubricate, or salvage the motor, or do I need to get a new (used?)
motor? This thing has had many, many hours on it, since I use it too
to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe it gratitude, but can
afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved somehow, that would
be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!


'
Suggest double checking that the fan is attached securely. Items that
do not have a firm grip can make lots of different noises.

Thanks, Leon and all others! I will do this tomorrow.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message ...

I posted a picture of the squirrelcage motor in my homemade "air filtration
system" with 18x24" filters. The motor has started to make a high pitched
squeeking noise, and the center circular pieces in the picture (bearings?)
are getting hot. Is there any way to lubricate, or salvage the motor, or
do I need to get a new (used?) motor? This thing has had many, many hours
on it, since I use it too to circulate the air in the basement. So I owe
it gratitude, but can afford another motor. OTOH, if it can be saved
somehow, that would be good. But I don't want it to catch fire!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

--
Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but I
suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is thermal
breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires, possible
causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them without
destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a very good
solution for that type of motor. They will be ball bearing sets, not
sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try to get the "ZZ" type
which have both sides sealed, as your device is apparently used in a dusty
environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which makes them
easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press is handy for
reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press (off) with makeshift
jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching these with a hammer, especially
if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed can
prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply dried out,
if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing. However, there is a
popular canned spray that should be avoided, marketed as a "lubricant" and
is often touted as the fix-all for everything. However, around sealed,
greased bearings, the stuff is a nightmare since it is a powerful degreaser,
which liquifies the packed grease. It's name begins with WD - don't fall for
the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly lightweight
and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not reflect
current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but
I suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is thermal
breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires, possible
causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them
without destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a
very good solution for that type of motor. They will be ball bearing
sets, not sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try to get
the "ZZ" type which have both sides sealed, as your device is
apparently used in a dusty environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which makes
them easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press is
handy for reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press (off)
with makeshift jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching these with
a hammer, especially if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed can
prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply dried
out, if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing. However,
there is a popular canned spray that should be avoided, marketed as a
"lubricant" and is often touted as the fix-all for everything.
However, around sealed, greased bearings, the stuff is a nightmare
since it is a powerful degreaser, which liquifies the packed grease.
It's name begins with WD - don't fall for the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly
lightweight and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

This is very close to a post-mortem, as predicted by Puckdropper.

I took things apart. This is a 7.7 Amp motor for 1050 rpm. It was
rather solidly mounted, so that wasn't the problem.

It was an interesting experience. There was 1 loose long bolt that
attached a grounding wire between outer housing and motor itself. If
there ever was a nut on the other side it is now lost. I can't get the
bearing covers (?) off unless I go out and buy something. So I am going
to ask a plumber friend whether he might know of a squirrelcage fan and
motor that is looking for a new home. Otherwise, I may just go and get
another one on eBay.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message ...

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but
I suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is thermal
breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires, possible
causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them
without destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a
very good solution for that type of motor. They will be ball bearing
sets, not sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try to get
the "ZZ" type which have both sides sealed, as your device is
apparently used in a dusty environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which makes
them easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press is
handy for reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press (off)
with makeshift jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching these with
a hammer, especially if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed can
prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply dried
out, if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing. However,
there is a popular canned spray that should be avoided, marketed as a
"lubricant" and is often touted as the fix-all for everything.
However, around sealed, greased bearings, the stuff is a nightmare
since it is a powerful degreaser, which liquifies the packed grease.
It's name begins with WD - don't fall for the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly
lightweight and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

This is very close to a post-mortem, as predicted by Puckdropper.

I took things apart. This is a 7.7 Amp motor for 1050 rpm. It was
rather solidly mounted, so that wasn't the problem.

It was an interesting experience. There was 1 loose long bolt that
attached a grounding wire between outer housing and motor itself. If
there ever was a nut on the other side it is now lost. I can't get the
bearing covers (?) off unless I go out and buy something. So I am going
to ask a plumber friend whether he might know of a squirrelcage fan and
motor that is looking for a new home. Otherwise, I may just go and get
another one on eBay.

-
Han,

It sounds as if the bearings are tightly pressed onto the rotor and into the
end caps, preventing you from separating the motor. A seated bearing set
will only move if pressure is applied evenly and straight along shaft
direction. Prying with one screwdriver is futile; you would need at least
two large screwdrivers applied at the same time directly across from each
other, torquing in opposite directions. Even this is doubtful to work on
the tough nuts to crack.

Sometimes I'll use the weight of the stator to my advantage, being very
careful to protect the shaft, and raise the motor assy and strike (gently at
first) the shaft end of the rotor (traveling in a straight line with the
shaft) onto the (carpetted) bench until the weight of the stator drives the
front end cap off of the bearing (or the front bearing off the shaft).
Unfortunately removing the rear end cap is more difficult without the mass
of the stator to help and the end caps tend to be a brittle cast metal that
dont like repeated banging.

Regarding the nutless screw, if one of the adjoining screws were at all
loose, one of the end caps could have skewed slightly, binding the bearing
up, creating increased friction, higher heat, etc.. If the motor could be
hand turned, find a nut to fit the bolt, tighten it all up making sure the
end caps seat tightly and evenly into the stator frame. Having all of the
screws tight may make the difference.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)

Scott in Dunedin FL

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

"Han" wrote in message
...

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but
I suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is
thermal breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires,
possible causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them
without destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a
very good solution for that type of motor. They will be ball
bearing sets, not sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try
to get the "ZZ" type which have both sides sealed, as your device is
apparently used in a dusty environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which
makes them easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press
is handy for reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press
(off) with makeshift jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching
these with a hammer, especially if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed
can prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply
dried out, if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing.
However, there is a popular canned spray that should be avoided,
marketed as a "lubricant" and is often touted as the fix-all for
everything. However, around sealed, greased bearings, the stuff is a
nightmare since it is a powerful degreaser, which liquifies the
packed grease. It's name begins with WD - don't fall for the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly
lightweight and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

This is very close to a post-mortem, as predicted by Puckdropper.

I took things apart. This is a 7.7 Amp motor for 1050 rpm. It was
rather solidly mounted, so that wasn't the problem.

It was an interesting experience. There was 1 loose long bolt that
attached a grounding wire between outer housing and motor itself. If
there ever was a nut on the other side it is now lost. I can't get
the bearing covers (?) off unless I go out and buy something. So I am
going to ask a plumber friend whether he might know of a squirrelcage
fan and motor that is looking for a new home. Otherwise, I may just
go and get another one on eBay.

-
Han,

It sounds as if the bearings are tightly pressed onto the rotor and
into the end caps, preventing you from separating the motor. A seated
bearing set will only move if pressure is applied evenly and straight
along shaft direction. Prying with one screwdriver is futile; you
would need at least two large screwdrivers applied at the same time
directly across from each other, torquing in opposite directions.
Even this is doubtful to work on the tough nuts to crack.

Sometimes I'll use the weight of the stator to my advantage, being
very careful to protect the shaft, and raise the motor assy and strike
(gently at first) the shaft end of the rotor (traveling in a straight
line with the shaft) onto the (carpetted) bench until the weight of
the stator drives the front end cap off of the bearing (or the front
bearing off the shaft). Unfortunately removing the rear end cap is
more difficult without the mass of the stator to help and the end caps
tend to be a brittle cast metal that dont like repeated banging.

Regarding the nutless screw, if one of the adjoining screws were at
all loose, one of the end caps could have skewed slightly, binding the
bearing up, creating increased friction, higher heat, etc.. If the
motor could be hand turned, find a nut to fit the bolt, tighten it all
up making sure the end caps seat tightly and evenly into the stator
frame. Having all of the screws tight may make the difference.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)

Scott in Dunedin FL

Thanks, Scott, but I have indeed given up on this thing. Chalk one up
for experience and in favor of the disposable society. I wonder what the
town's recycling division is going to do with it ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 27 Sep 2012 21:28:25 GMT, Han wrote:

"anon" wrote in
ing.com:

"Han" wrote in message
...

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but
I suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is
thermal breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires,
possible causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them
without destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a
very good solution for that type of motor. They will be ball
bearing sets, not sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try
to get the "ZZ" type which have both sides sealed, as your device is
apparently used in a dusty environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which
makes them easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press
is handy for reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press
(off) with makeshift jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching
these with a hammer, especially if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed
can prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply
dried out, if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing.
However, there is a popular canned spray that should be avoided,
marketed as a "lubricant" and is often touted as the fix-all for
everything. However, around sealed, greased bearings, the stuff is a
nightmare since it is a powerful degreaser, which liquifies the
packed grease. It's name begins with WD - don't fall for the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly
lightweight and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

This is very close to a post-mortem, as predicted by Puckdropper.

I took things apart. This is a 7.7 Amp motor for 1050 rpm. It was
rather solidly mounted, so that wasn't the problem.

It was an interesting experience. There was 1 loose long bolt that
attached a grounding wire between outer housing and motor itself. If
there ever was a nut on the other side it is now lost. I can't get
the bearing covers (?) off unless I go out and buy something. So I am
going to ask a plumber friend whether he might know of a squirrelcage
fan and motor that is looking for a new home. Otherwise, I may just
go and get another one on eBay.

-
Han,

It sounds as if the bearings are tightly pressed onto the rotor and
into the end caps, preventing you from separating the motor. A seated
bearing set will only move if pressure is applied evenly and straight
along shaft direction. Prying with one screwdriver is futile; you
would need at least two large screwdrivers applied at the same time
directly across from each other, torquing in opposite directions.
Even this is doubtful to work on the tough nuts to crack.

Sometimes I'll use the weight of the stator to my advantage, being
very careful to protect the shaft, and raise the motor assy and strike
(gently at first) the shaft end of the rotor (traveling in a straight
line with the shaft) onto the (carpetted) bench until the weight of
the stator drives the front end cap off of the bearing (or the front
bearing off the shaft). Unfortunately removing the rear end cap is
more difficult without the mass of the stator to help and the end caps
tend to be a brittle cast metal that dont like repeated banging.

Regarding the nutless screw, if one of the adjoining screws were at
all loose, one of the end caps could have skewed slightly, binding the
bearing up, creating increased friction, higher heat, etc.. If the
motor could be hand turned, find a nut to fit the bolt, tighten it all
up making sure the end caps seat tightly and evenly into the stator
frame. Having all of the screws tight may make the difference.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)

Scott in Dunedin FL

Thanks, Scott, but I have indeed given up on this thing. Chalk one up
for experience and in favor of the disposable society. I wonder what the
town's recycling division is going to do with it ...

I received an entire furnace gratis for the asking. Some day, I'll
use the included squirrel-cage fan to blow/filter the shop air.
To save the HVAC companies trouble, they often give the old units
away, even when they're complete and working.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

"Han" wrote in message ...

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

"Han" wrote in message
...

"anon" wrote in
ng.com:

Han,

I've never seen a bad bearing in these small motors cause a fire, but
I suppose it is possible. The usual risk from hot bearings is
thermal breakdown of insulators within the motor windings and wires,
possible causing a electrical hazard.

If the bearings races or ball are pitted (not that you can see them
without destroying the the bearing set), replacing the bearings is a
very good solution for that type of motor. They will be ball
bearing sets, not sleeve bearings. When you get the replacements try
to get the "ZZ" type which have both sides sealed, as your device is
apparently used in a dusty environment.

Sometimes you get lucky and the bearings stay on the rotor which
makes them easier to remove using a bearing puller. A bearing press
is handy for reinstallation but I've also used a heavy drill press
(off) with makeshift jig. Brinelling is a risk when approaching
these with a hammer, especially if the fit is tight.

Light machine oil was suggested for a temporary fix, and it indeed
can prolong the life of the bearings considerably if they've simply
dried out, if you can get the oil into the bearing set casing.
However, there is a popular canned spray that should be avoided,
marketed as a "lubricant" and is often touted as the fix-all for
everything. However, around sealed, greased bearings, the stuff is a
nightmare since it is a powerful degreaser, which liquifies the
packed grease. It's name begins with WD - don't fall for the hype.

Check for loose mounting as suggested since the cage is fairly
lightweight and would squeak if given the chance.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)
Scott in Dunedin, FL

This is very close to a post-mortem, as predicted by Puckdropper.

I took things apart. This is a 7.7 Amp motor for 1050 rpm. It was
rather solidly mounted, so that wasn't the problem.

It was an interesting experience. There was 1 loose long bolt that
attached a grounding wire between outer housing and motor itself. If
there ever was a nut on the other side it is now lost. I can't get
the bearing covers (?) off unless I go out and buy something. So I am
going to ask a plumber friend whether he might know of a squirrelcage
fan and motor that is looking for a new home. Otherwise, I may just
go and get another one on eBay.

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Han,

It sounds as if the bearings are tightly pressed onto the rotor and
into the end caps, preventing you from separating the motor. A seated
bearing set will only move if pressure is applied evenly and straight
along shaft direction. Prying with one screwdriver is futile; you
would need at least two large screwdrivers applied at the same time
directly across from each other, torquing in opposite directions.
Even this is doubtful to work on the tough nuts to crack.

Sometimes I'll use the weight of the stator to my advantage, being
very careful to protect the shaft, and raise the motor assy and strike
(gently at first) the shaft end of the rotor (traveling in a straight
line with the shaft) onto the (carpetted) bench until the weight of
the stator drives the front end cap off of the bearing (or the front
bearing off the shaft). Unfortunately removing the rear end cap is
more difficult without the mass of the stator to help and the end caps
tend to be a brittle cast metal that don€„¢t like repeated banging.

Regarding the nutless screw, if one of the adjoining screws were at
all loose, one of the end caps could have skewed slightly, binding the
bearing up, creating increased friction, higher heat, etc.. If the
motor could be hand turned, find a nut to fit the bolt, tighten it all
up making sure the end caps seat tightly and evenly into the stator
frame. Having all of the screws tight may make the difference.

(The opinions and suggestion expressed above are my own and do not
reflect current enginieering or electrical standards in any way.)

Scott in Dunedin FL

Thanks, Scott, but I have indeed given up on this thing. Chalk one up
for experience and in favor of the disposable society. I wonder what the
town's recycling division is going to do with it ...

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Aye, the ease of disassembly usually offers a taste of the reassembly.
Good luck then,
Scott in Dunedin FL