These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
+/- US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/11/11 9:19 AM, Swingman wrote:

These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
+/- US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)


Love me some french cleat!!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:19:47 -0500, Swingman wrote:


These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
+/- US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Yes, those extension miter slots were notably missing. Did you wax
the wood?


Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)

I knew they didn't. How? Because you didn't yet have one.

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

I would recommend using small clamps to clamp each end of the cleating
boards. My outfeed table is screwed to the tablesaw, via angle iron,
and occassionally it still moves laterally, misaligning the miter
slots (1/32" is enough movement). I haven't figured out how/why it
moves. My outfeed table is heavy: 2" thick, 4' deep, 6' long... (a
work table originally from LSU physics lab - $20 for 4 tables at the
State surplus auction).

Sonny

On 7/11/11 12:51 PM, Sonny wrote:
I would recommend using small clamps to clamp each end of the cleating
boards. My outfeed table is screwed to the tablesaw, via angle iron,
and occassionally it still moves laterally, misaligning the miter
slots (1/32" is enough movement).
Sonny

Widen them.
There's no reason for extension slots to be as narrow as the miter slots.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/11/2011 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/11/11 12:51 PM, Sonny wrote:
I would recommend using small clamps to clamp each end of the cleating
boards. My outfeed table is screwed to the tablesaw, via angle iron,
and occassionally it still moves laterally, misaligning the miter
slots (1/32" is enough movement).
Sonny

Sonny,

I did drill a conveniently accessible screw hole on each table end just
in case it had a tendency to push away from the table saw during use,
but it doesn't, so I haven't bothered to screw it onto the mating cleat
board.

Also angling the two legs slightly will have the same effect in
precluding lateral movement in either direction, as well as using a
60/30 French cleat instead of a 45 degree (the drawing shows a 45 degree
French cleat angle), but again, it has not been a problem in use.

Widen them.
There's no reason for extension slots to be as narrow as the miter slots.

Mike,

Absolutely, AAMOF, I'd already marked them out for routing ... at almost
1/4" wider per slot side ... just waiting until I feel like taking it
off and getting covered in router crap, before I broke out the router.

Now that the project was picked up by the paint contractor this morning,
I may do it this afternoon.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/11/2011 1:32 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 7/11/2011 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/11/11 12:51 PM, Sonny wrote:
I would recommend using small clamps to clamp each end of the cleating
boards. My outfeed table is screwed to the tablesaw, via angle iron,
and occassionally it still moves laterally, misaligning the miter
slots (1/32" is enough movement).
Sonny

Sonny,

I did drill a conveniently accessible screw hole on each table end just
in case it had a tendency to push away from the table saw during use,
but it doesn't, so I haven't bothered to screw it onto the mating cleat
board.

Also angling the two legs slightly will have the same effect in
precluding lateral movement in either direction, as well as using a
60/30 French cleat instead of a 45 degree (the drawing shows a 45 degree
French cleat angle), but again, it has not been a problem in use.

Widen them.
There's no reason for extension slots to be as narrow as the miter slots.

Mike,

Absolutely, AAMOF, I'd already marked them out for routing ... at almost
1/4" wider per slot side ... just waiting until I feel like taking it
off and getting covered in router crap, before I broke out the router.

Now that the project was picked up by the paint contractor this morning,
I may do it this afternoon.


The new Festool router sucks up all the router crap. ;~)

Widen them.
There's no reason for extension slots to be as narrow as the miter slots.

* -MIKE-

Don't know why I didn't realize that. Thanks.

Sonny ~~~~ chargrinned!

On 7/11/2011 9:19 AM, Swingman wrote:

These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
+/- US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)


Now spray it with some She-lack and wax it! Look like it works.

If you put an apron horizontally on the back side of the saw and run the
legs at an angle to set on the apron you can move the saw with out
having to remove or readjust the out feed.

On 7/11/2011 4:50 PM, Leon wrote:

If you put an apron horizontally on the back side of the saw and run the
legs at an angle to set on the apron you can move the saw with out
having to remove or readjust the out feed.

Gave it some consideration but had two problems with that approach on
this model Unisaw:

~ Interior DC sheet metal panels, and the location of the DC port, makes
for difficult access to bolt on an apron, resulting in a very acute
outfeed leg angle, which precludes desired outfeed table stability (you
would need to add a third leg for stability, as Delta does in their
commercial outfeed table).


~ My low assembly table, which I'm fond of and find indispensable for
the way I work, would not then fit under the outfeed table.

The first could likely be solved with much more effort than I was
willing to expend, but the second was the deal killer.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/11/2011 5:31 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 7/11/2011 4:50 PM, Leon wrote:

If you put an apron horizontally on the back side of the saw and run the
legs at an angle to set on the apron you can move the saw with out
having to remove or readjust the out feed.

Gave it some consideration but had two problems with that approach on
this model Unisaw:

~ Interior DC sheet metal panels, and the location of the DC port, makes
for difficult access to bolt on an apron, resulting in a very acute
outfeed leg angle, which precludes desired outfeed table stability (you
would need to add a third leg for stability, as Delta does in their
commercial outfeed table).


~ My low assembly table, which I'm fond of and find indispensable for
the way I work, would not then fit under the outfeed table.

The first could likely be solved with much more effort than I was
willing to expend, but the second was the deal killer.


Gotcha!