just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.
hours ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt
and elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

Have you tried this site?
http://tablesawalignment.com/
Art

"dave" wrote in message
...
snip
am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

dave wrote:
....snip story of grief...

Would help to know actual model/SN...

--

"dave" wrote in message
...
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops (but
that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to the
effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original made
of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw seems
like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I used to
on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table up about
.625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped blank then
cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

Well, yours is not the "new style", the new style has just been introduced
in the last few weeks. Check you trunion for cracks, perhaps you have a
broken trunion. The previous generation of Unisaws had a problem with
broken trunions in the past.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:47:21 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

Well, yours is not the "new style", the new style

I think you're right on here Leon.
I don't believe they even make the "new style" in a right tilt model.

Mike O.

On Jul 10, 10:47*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"dave" wrote in message

...



just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops (but
that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to the
effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are *missing...what are the original made
of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw seems
like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I used to
on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table up about
.625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped blank then
cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

I have been a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! What are you talking about?

Mike

model number 34-807, serial number 91E30233, right tilt saw, has
absolutley NO cracked or broken or repaired (welded, brazed, or
otherwise) "anything" inside the saw (or anywhere else, for that
matter), trunions or otherwise - closely examined first hand. nothing
'bent wrong' in there, either.

you can see the ACTUAL saw (or, what it looked like when I 1st got it,
really) at

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_offloading/

on that same site, top left corner of this image

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_offload...s/photo27.html

'best' shows bottom of the upper (cast iron) table bolted TO the upper
flange directly ('directly' here meaning: there are no shims between
upper surface of the gray flanges and the female threaded bolt 'bosses'
on the bottoms of the iron top)

back to the original question: are there 'supposed to be' shims, of some
sort, between the top and (gray) thick upper sheet metal flanges?
installing some there is the *ONLY* way I can figure out to make the saw
blade go down FLUSH, or a hair below, the upper table surface when
cranked fully down. that, or I can 'grind away' the bigger tooth 'stops'
on the elevation arc-gear...which seems a *really* poor alternative.

or am I overlooking something?

*thanks* guys

ps - not that it has anything to do with this, but:
photo 35 shows the top of the table -after- I buffed it with a
scotchbrite wheel. the seller stored it in a leaky shed...before I got it.

dave wrote:
snip

ps - not that it has anything to do with this, but:
photo 35 shows the top of the table -after- I buffed it with a
scotchbrite wheel. the seller stored it in a leaky shed...before I got it.

Hey, Dave ...

Did ya use any "goop" with the wheel? If so, what?

Larry

dave wrote:
model number 34-807, serial number 91E30233, right tilt saw, has
absolutley NO cracked or broken or repaired (welded, brazed, or
otherwise) "anything" inside the saw (or anywhere else, for that
matter), trunions or otherwise - closely examined first hand. nothing
'bent wrong' in there, either.
....

34-807 appears to have been manufactured as 230V/3PH -- any chance
somebody swapped out OEM motor for a single-phase that isn't same
dimensions?

Looking at schematics, Delta shows no spacers between top of cabinet and
bottom of table (and I'd not expect any; never saw any other than some
shimstock individuals had used to fine-tune table) and surely not the
distance you're speaking of.

The P-C/Delta site is so slow w/ my dialup I went here to view schematics --

http://images.toolpartsdirect.com/schematics/delta/34-807_type_1.big.jpg
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/34-807_TYPE_1/

There's a Type 1 and a Type 2--I don't know what the difference there
is, but wouldn't think it material to your problem...

Whatever the problem is, I don't believe it has to do w/ shims on the
table--it's something related to the motor/trunnion mechanism...

Sorry I don't know the exact cure; I've not had a Unisaw directly to
compare to, my TS is a Model 66.

Good luck, hope the schematics help.

If it isn't apparent shortly, I'd call Delta technical support.

--

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

I have been a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! What are you talking about?

Mike


The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

On Jul 11, 11:24*am, "Leon" wrote:
"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in ...

I have been *a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! *What are you talking about?

Mike

The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? *I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. *When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. *The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. *Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

Isolated incident.....never heard of any major numbers with broken
trunnion..sort of the story that I know a guy that knows a guy that
heard about.......I also sold Jet....does not compare to a Unisaw for
fit and finish and holding its value sorry!

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Isolated incident.....never heard of any major numbers with broken
trunnion..sort of the story that I know a guy that knows a guy that
heard about.......I also sold Jet....does not compare to a Unisaw for
fit and finish and holding its value sorry!


OK Mike, first you say "other than heavy duty freight damage I never once
had a cracked trunnion problem."
Now you are saying, "never heard of any major numbers with broken trunnion".
Does that mean that you have heard of broken trunions but never saw one your
self?

As I mentioned above, the common conception was that the Delta trunions
problems were from mishandling.

It may sound isolated to you but contact Delta and I assure you, if anyone
is left, they have certainly heard of the problem. Again I state, I was
not totally shocked when I saw the broken trunion myself as I had heard of
the problem.
It simply is not a case of a guy knowing a guy that knew a guy.

Jet fit and finish? I'd say 10 years ago Jet had the certain advantage, I
could care less as far as holding value, it has paid for itself many times
over and it will probably out last me. Sorry. The new Unisaw shames most
all saws except for perhaps the SawStop as far as fit and finish goes.

I am not here to bad mouth the Unisaw, I was simply pointing out that the OP
should take a close look at the trunion as the broken trunions have been a
problem/something to watch out for in the past. I am certainly not saying
to not buy a Unisaw but if considering an older one you it would be very
wise to check the trunion.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Just to add a bit to my comments,

http://www.varioustopics.com/woodwor...runnion-7.html

Aditionally, a comment by UnisawA100, "Keeter?" about the new Unisaw as
opposed to the older unisaw trunion problems.

During the early design process these castings were computer modeled and
virtually crash tested prior to establishing the final design. In the end
they behaved as modeled (they hold up).

"As an aside, the same computer modeling and virtual crash testing was retro
performed on the old trunnion and bracket design and without any prompting
this showed the same flaw that some past users have found (cracks and breaks
at the ears of the trunnion brackets). "


If you like you can read the whole article. The above comments seems to
validate that Delta was converned about not having anymore broken trunion
problems when computer testing the new Unisaw trunion.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr... psed&sb=5&o=

On Jul 11, 11:24*am, "Leon" wrote:
"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in ...

I have been *a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! *What are you talking about?

Mike

The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? *I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. *When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. *The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. *Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. He done it for greed Not customer service. I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. He done it for greed Not customer service. I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"Horse "s-it"! I will not doubt that there may have been more money to be
made but the quality was in favor of the Jet.
Jet's simply arrived intact. I higly suspect he did it for less chance of a
customer complaint after a DOA Unisaw delivery.
Say what you will but your view is apparently only considering what you have
personally seen. Many many others, as I have pointed out to you, have seen
differently.

dave wrote:

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

When I bought my used Delta contractors saw, the previous owner managed
to put the pulley on backwards, making it impossible to set the blade at
a perfect 90°. The pulley "looked" OK but would hit something when
attempting to set to 90°. Not saying thats the problem, Unisaws have a
different set up completley, I'm just saying....

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

dave wrote:
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.
(snip)

am I overlooking something?

Have you measured the blade?

On Jul 10, 8:56*pm, dave wrote:
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
* when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.
hours ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt
and elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are *missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

I had the problem of the blade not lowering enough on my 25+ year old
unisaw when I first got it. Delta wanted to replace the trunnions.
Seems to me I loosened the set screws on the worm gear that raised and
lowered the blade and moved it untill it cleared the throat plate.
Ted

The arbor bracket rides directly on the worm gear, which is on the same
shaft as the crank for raising and lowering the blade. It might be easiest
to take the table off to check it out. As you crank the blade up and down,
the arbor bracket pivots, and when it gets to the end of it's travel, there
is a stop at each end that bumps up against the worm gear. The worm gear is
held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is held in position by a stop
collar on the rear end of the shaft. If the worm gear and the arbor bracket
are misaligned, it will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. My guess
would be that either the worm gear was removed at some point and reinstalled
backward, or that the shaft has moved toward the rear thus misaligning the
worm gear and arbor bracket.

Doug

"dave" wrote in message
...
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.

Doug S wrote:
The arbor bracket rides directly on the worm gear, which is on the same
shaft as the crank for raising and lowering the blade. It might be easiest
to take the table off to check it out. As you crank the blade up and down,
the arbor bracket pivots, and when it gets to the end of it's travel, there
is a stop at each end that bumps up against the worm gear. The worm gear is
held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is held in position by a stop
collar on the rear end of the shaft. If the worm gear and the arbor bracket
are misaligned, it will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. My guess
would be that either the worm gear was removed at some point and reinstalled
backward, or that the shaft has moved toward the rear thus misaligning the
worm gear and arbor bracket.

I've had the table on and off already. it's back on now, this time
"shimmed up"

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/

in addition, 'it looks to me' as if all my tilt and elevation gears are
in correct relation to one another, in all planes of reference...

doug, when you said "...held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is
held in position ..." I'm a bit foggy on what's a "toe shaft"? that a
typo and you meant "the shaft"

it DOES occur to me, though, that maybe some previous owner
're-installed' the worm 180 degrees 'out of synch' with the bore of the
original crosspin....so possibly that 'half-turn of the worm' is the
cause of this problem ???

thanks doug, I'm still looking into this... :-/

I'm gonna GUESS here that no matter HOW much assembly of the unisaw (my
model) was required on 'day one new' day, that installing the elevation
worm onto it's shaft *wasn't* one of the assembly steps the 'new owner'
was required to do. and I can't see any reason for ANYone prior to me
ever having 'removed' and re-installing' the elevation worm, either,
seeing as the saw is, for all practical purposes, brand new, or "near
brand new, anyway" (though, still....'could be')

so, I'm still baffled...

---------------------------

ted said:

I had the problem of the blade not lowering enough on my 25+ year old
unisaw when I first got it. Delta wanted to replace the trunnions.
Seems to me I loosened the set screws on the worm gear that raised and
lowered the blade and moved it untill it cleared the throat plate.

per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...

thanks ted

dave wrote:
....
per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...
....

Would it be possible to be a tooth/spline off from intended matching
point, perhaps, if somebody had disassembled it previously?

I'm still curious about the motor, though....is this still the original
3P motor on it?

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
dave wrote:
...
per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...
...

Would it be possible to be a tooth/spline off from intended matching
point, perhaps, if somebody had disassembled it previously?

I'm still curious about the motor, though....is this still the original 3P
motor on it?

--

The schematic indicates a 3 phase 7.5 motor but other pictures show a 3
hpase 5 hp motor hanging on the saw.
Having been used in a school the 3 hpase would sound right.

Did you know that Dave??

Leon wrote:
....
The schematic indicates a 3 phase 7.5 motor but other pictures show a 3
hpase 5 hp motor hanging on the saw.
Having been used in a school the 3 hpase would sound right.
....

Hadn't noticed anything about saw's previous use only that schematics
showed the model was manufactured as 3PH--and that since most
individuals don't have 3PH power handy made me wonder about whether
somebody could have swapped out the OEM motor for something else which
doesn't have correct geometry before the OP got it...

Maybe the 5/7.5 hp is the Type 1/Type 2 difference I saw noted on
schematics earlier???

--

"dave" wrote in message
...

I've had the table on and off already. it's back on now, this time
"shimmed up"

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/

in addition, 'it looks to me' as if all my tilt and elevation gears are in
correct relation to one another, in all planes of reference...

Now that you have shimmed the top, does the fence still indicate the same
cutting distance at the table surface when the blade is in the 90 and 45
degree tilt settings? Raising or lowering the table can throw this off and
is the primary reason for shimming. The resulting cutting width should be
the same regardless of what bevel setting that the blade is set at.






doug, when you said "...held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is
held in position ..." I'm a bit foggy on what's a "toe shaft"? that a typo
and you meant "the shaft"

it DOES occur to me, though, that maybe some previous owner 're-installed'
the worm 180 degrees 'out of synch' with the bore of the original
crosspin....so possibly that 'half-turn of the worm' is the cause of this
problem ???

thanks doug, I'm still looking into this... :-/

I'm gonna GUESS here that no matter HOW much assembly of the unisaw (my
model) was required on 'day one new' day, that installing the elevation
worm onto it's shaft *wasn't* one of the assembly steps the 'new owner'
was required to do. and I can't see any reason for ANYone prior to me ever
having 'removed' and re-installing' the elevation worm, either, seeing as
the saw is, for all practical purposes, brand new, or "near brand new,
anyway" (though, still....'could be')

so, I'm still baffled...

"Perhaps" a reason could be that part of the trunnion has been replaced and
the elevation handle/gear was not in the correct orientation during
reassembly.