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#1
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Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of
making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#2
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![]() " wrote: Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. snip Is my next stop the service center?? Call tech service on the 800# first. They were very helpful to me on a planer problem. Lew |
#3
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On Mar 15, 5:28*pm, " wrote:
Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. *When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. *It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. *I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. *I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. *I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. *I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. *Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers Sounds like it is skipping a tooth in the roller drive. Best you listen to uncle Lew. |
#4
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![]() " wrote in message ... Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers Perhaps a "key" that indexes the feed rollers to a drive gear. |
#5
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Bad bearing ? - I can't believe a bad belt. It would make noise but
should not divit. Look it all over and hand turn it. power off... Martin wrote: Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#6
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Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will
find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had the same symptoms. Doug " wrote in message ... Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#7
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Doug S wrote:
Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had the same symptoms. .... They don't have an adjustment idler? Any way to add one (even an old-style wooden slide block) if not? Can't remove a link? -- |
#8
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Took it apart and the chain has a bad link. Stiff as can be. Tried
flexing it back & forth. Gave up & ordered $4 replacement chain from repair center. Thanks for all the help! Happy St. Paddy's On Mar 17, 8:20*pm, "Doug S" wrote: Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had the same symptoms. Doug " wrote in message ... Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. *When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. *It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. *I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. *I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. *I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. *I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. *Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#9
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FYI if this happens again and you need to get up and running quick: Based on
my recollections of the chain size, a chain tool from a bicycle shop would probably fix it... you can adjust how tight a link is with the tool. I've had one of those tools for years due to my affection for cycling. In fact, I've been thinking about doing another big trip in 2011 from coast to coast, 25 years after my 3,142 mile trip. I wonder if the finishes and wood dust have affected me? :~) " wrote in message ... Took it apart and the chain has a bad link. Stiff as can be. Tried flexing it back & forth. Gave up & ordered $4 replacement chain from repair center. Thanks for all the help! Happy St. Paddy's On Mar 17, 8:20 pm, "Doug S" wrote: Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had the same symptoms. Doug " wrote in message ... Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#10
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Good tip; I'm a cyclist also, and have a chain breaker. Unfortunately
this chain appears to be a little larger than what my chain tool accepts and I ended up tearing up the chain breaker in my haste to try and get the planer back up & running. It was not a good Park Tool quality breaker mind you but a knock-off chiwainese one that I've only used one other time. As always, buy the best and cry once. I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky think called employment out of the way! Cheers On Mar 17, 9:42*pm, "John Grossbohlin" wrote: FYI if this happens again and you need to get up and running quick: Based on my recollections of the chain size, a chain tool from a bicycle shop would probably fix it... you can adjust how tight a link is with the tool. I've had one of those tools for years due to my affection for cycling. In fact, I've been thinking about doing another big trip in 2011 from coast to coast, 25 years after my 3,142 mile trip. I wonder if the finishes and wood dust have affected me? :~) " wrote in message ... Took it apart and the chain has a bad link. *Stiff as can be. *Tried flexing it back & forth. *Gave up & ordered $4 replacement chain from repair center. Thanks for all the help! Happy St. Paddy's On Mar 17, 8:20 pm, "Doug S" wrote: Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had the same symptoms. Doug " wrote in message ... Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol, have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center?? Cheers |
#11
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![]() On 18-Mar-2009, " wrote: I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky think called employment out of the way! I've got some unemployment I don't really need. How about a trade? |
#12
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![]() " wrote in message ... Good tip; I'm a cyclist also, and have a chain breaker. Unfortunately this chain appears to be a little larger than what my chain tool accepts and I ended up tearing up the chain breaker in my haste to try and get the planer back up & running. It was not a good Park Tool quality breaker mind you but a knock-off chiwainese one that I've only used one other time. As always, buy the best and cry once. I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky think called employment out of the way! I thought the chain size was about the same as used on the coaster brake/3 speed bikes... could be faulty memory on my part as I sold my 733 about 4-5 years ago after getting a Jet planer/molder on an enclosed base so the image isn't fresh in my head. Re employment, for my first trip I resigned and took off. This time I can cobble together a couple of months of paid time off--which my family appreciates. ;~) Well, I'm off to the shop to get the dust and finish levels up so the trip continues to sound like a good idea.... ;~) John |
#13
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![]() Planer "skips" when planing (irregularly) can leave mark on stock when happens. Note: I'd ensure each problem is fixed before you delve deeper, though understand consolidating part order. Ensure planer unplugged, blah, blah, blah. steps 1-3 are ok for novice, step 4 intermediate/difficult 1. Check feed rollers if show significant wear, replace will need to follow chain and bushing steps below. If glazed clean with solvent (alcohol or thinner using scrub pad). Don't cut yourself on blades 2. Check rubber (nylon) drive belt (located right side from front) remove top 4 allen bolts remove allen securing height adjuster, then remove handle assembly remove 4 screws holding left and right plastic side panels lift out side panels inspect belt if shows any wear, replace 3. Check drive chains (located left side from front, FYI chains do have normal slack, no tension adj) remove plastic chain cover, 2 screws on bottom front/back remove snap rings ease out sprockets front/rear to remove chains check chains, make sure all links flex easily, if any bind replace chain inspect sprockets, any damage replace 4.Inspect bushings (securing screws are a bitch to get out, can try ratchet w/ phillips, I had to use vice grips on heads when phillips started to strip) raise cutterhead all the way Start with 2 rear bushings 2 screws secure each bushing retaining bracket, FYI there are springs pushing down on bushings, but not heavily loaded, ease both out a few turns at a time. watch bushing, should move downward with spring pressure easily. If it binds bushing and/or spring may need replacement same deal with front when reinstalling, ease screws in back/front a bit at a time 5. Drive gears (now we're getting into more difficulty, proceed at you own risk. may have missed some screws, but if you're game for attempting this, you'll get the jist) Remove top cover (black) of planer. Remove dust chute (3 phillips) and rear blade access cover (2 allen) Remove 4 allen screws underneath front of motor assembly Remove power switch (6 phillips), disconnect leads (label to ensure proper reattachment) Remove nylon belt shroud (rt side, 1 phillips), take belt off rollers remove power cord securing screw (left side, 1 phillips) Lift out motor assembly Remove 2 screws left side securing plastic housing, remove housing detach ground lead (green wire, 1 phillips) Remove 4 screws securing gearcase cover, remove carefully Inspect all gears replace if damaged. Note: if smallest drive gear damaged is actually the end of armature. big money part...plus bearings, etc... Put everything back together This is what I found: drive rollers worn but I decided not to replace yet nylon drive belt was original, looked ok but had discolored to almost brown so I replaced 1 drive chain (inner) had bad link bushing on left rear (drive side) had been a bit mangled/cracked either causing or caused by skipping, so I replaced both rear bushings armature spiral drive gear showed wear but big $ part, plus bearings..etc.... older planer so no replacement for me everything else looked fine I fixed the problems in order as listed but still skipped. Not until I got into gearcase (with no replacements) and reassembled did skipping stop, but no obvious problems... Have planed quite a bit since with no probs, running like new- ....disassemble..reassemble..disassemble...I've heard patience is a virtue, hours spent, good luck |
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