[tom]

I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom

[Swingman]

"tom" wrote

I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom

First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot. Next would be to find a size larger
gib screw and tap if for that.

Strangely enough, I'm waiting, as we speak, for a hardware store to open to
try and find a 1/4", 20 threads to the inch, gib screw to fix a similar
problem, although not on a jointer.

Good luck ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

[Upscale]

"Swingman" wrote in message
First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot.

As an addition to that, I've occasionally found that reaming it out with the
same size tap and then running some loctite #2 into the threads (semi
permanent loctite) will restore enough thread grab to hold for use.

[Leon]

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"tom" wrote

I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom

First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot. Next would be to find a size larger
gib screw and tap if for that.

Strangely enough, I'm waiting, as we speak, for a hardware store to open
to try and find a 1/4", 20 threads to the inch, gib screw to fix a similar
problem, although not on a jointer.

Good luck ...

Good suggestions but also consider a couple of other alternatives.
Heli-coil inserts, and or Mold-in insert. The last is/was a product made by
Permatex. You would clean out the damaged thread area of debris, put in an
epoxy type material in the hole with the intended bolt inserted into the
mixture. The bolt being used would be coated with an anti-seize compound so
that it would not adhere to the mixture. After the mixture hardened/ cured
you would screw out the bolt and use as you normally would.

[Swingman]

"Upscale" wrote

"Swingman" wrote in message
First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes
that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot.

As an addition to that, I've occasionally found that reaming it out with
the
same size tap and then running some loctite #2 into the threads (semi
permanent loctite) will restore enough thread grab to hold for use.

Excellent point/suggestion ... Duh!, even have a couple of tubes, of
different types, hiding somewhere in the shop.

Thanks!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

[tom]

On Mar 1, 10:11 am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot.

As an addition to that, I've occasionally found that reaming it out with the
same size tap and then running some loctite #2 into the threads (semi
permanent loctite) will restore enough thread grab to hold for use.

Thanks, guys. Looking at the threads with a jeweler's loupe shows
total thread loss where the screw grabs. I wonder how much the
cutterhead's balance would be affected by going up a size or two.
Maybe the amount I remove in tapping will offset the extra mass in the
new screw, or do I worry too much? A neighbor friend has a stick
welder, and I'll be talking with him later today about another
possible fix.

[tom]

On Mar 1, 10:20 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message

...



"tom" wrote

I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom

First thing I'd try is to ream it with the same size tap in the hopes that
may fix it ... sometimes worth a shot. Next would be to find a size larger
gib screw and tap if for that.

Strangely enough, I'm waiting, as we speak, for a hardware store to open
to try and find a 1/4", 20 threads to the inch, gib screw to fix a similar
problem, although not on a jointer.

Good luck ...

Good suggestions but also consider a couple of other alternatives.
Heli-coil inserts, and or Mold-in insert. The last is/was a product made by
Permatex. You would clean out the damaged thread area of debris, put in an
epoxy type material in the hole with the intended bolt inserted into the
mixture. The bolt being used would be coated with an anti-seize compound so
that it would not adhere to the mixture. After the mixture hardened/ cured
you would screw out the bolt and use as you normally would.

Hmm, Permatex mold-in. Along the lines of J-B weld would you say, or
have there been improvements in epoxy technology? I'm stopping at the
hardware store during today's bike ride to check out that option.
Thanks very much. Tom

[Leon]

"tom" wrote in message
...
On Mar 1, 10:20 am, "Leon" wrote:


Good suggestions but also consider a couple of other alternatives.
Heli-coil inserts, and or Mold-in insert. The last is/was a product made
by
Permatex. You would clean out the damaged thread area of debris, put in
an
epoxy type material in the hole with the intended bolt inserted into the
mixture. The bolt being used would be coated with an anti-seize compound
so
that it would not adhere to the mixture. After the mixture hardened/
cured
you would screw out the bolt and use as you normally would.

Hmm, Permatex mold-in. Along the lines of J-B weld would you say, or
have there been improvements in epoxy technology? I'm stopping at the
hardware store during today's bike ride to check out that option.
Thanks very much. Tom

That Permatex product has been around a long time. There very well could be
several other similar products however a good hardware store should have one
of the versions.

[tom]

On Mar 1, 10:56 am, "Leon" wrote:
"tom" wrote in message

...



On Mar 1, 10:20 am, "Leon" wrote:

Good suggestions but also consider a couple of other alternatives.
Heli-coil inserts, and or Mold-in insert. The last is/was a product made
by
Permatex. You would clean out the damaged thread area of debris, put in
an
epoxy type material in the hole with the intended bolt inserted into the
mixture. The bolt being used would be coated with an anti-seize compound
so
that it would not adhere to the mixture. After the mixture hardened/
cured
you would screw out the bolt and use as you normally would.

Hmm, Permatex mold-in. Along the lines of J-B weld would you say, or
have there been improvements in epoxy technology? I'm stopping at the
hardware store during today's bike ride to check out that option.
Thanks very much. Tom

That Permatex product has been around a long time. There very well could be
several other similar products however a good hardware store should have one
of the versions.

Well, the stick welding option was too heavy-handed to work, but my
neighbor also has an oxy-acetylene torch, and was able to apply a
judicious amount of material to the stripped threads. Oddly enough,
the threads are 1/4x28, not metric as I would have thought. Anyway,
the gib screw is holding tension, and I'm back on line for now. It
seems that rust may have been the culprit. I'd rescued the jointer
from a friend's backyard, where it had sat for a couple of years.
Could be more trouble on the way in this regard. I guess I'll make a
bowl for my neighbor for his effort. Thanks again to all who replied
with solutions. Tom

[philski]

tom wrote:
I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom
I think HeliCoils work pretty good. I have used them in the past. Give
em a look:

http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

see what you think. They are available in a variety of English (SAE) and
metric sizes.

Otherwise, braze the original hold and drill and re-tap..

Philski

[-MIKE-]

I think HeliCoils work pretty good. I have used them in the past. Give
em a look:

http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

Philski


Helicoils make sense even in new machining.
You're essentially installing hardened steel threads into the softer
tapped metal.

I wonder if it's common practice in any industry.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

[tom]

On Mar 2, 9:31 pm, philski wrote:
tom wrote:
I have an 8" chiwanese jointer, and one of the knife gibs' threads
seems to have stripped out. There are 5 gib screws on the piece, and
the stripped one is on the outboard end. Naturally, I'd prefer not to
run the machine without all the keepers properly in place. Any and all
ideas would be very appreciated. Tom

I think HeliCoils work pretty good. I have used them in the past. Give
em a look:

http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

see what you think. They are available in a variety of English (SAE) and
metric sizes.

Otherwise, braze the original hold and drill and re-tap..

Philski

That's (brazing) what worked. Thanks! Tom