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#1
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I, like many others, agonized over the expense of $70 for a Starrett
combination square. I thought there had to be a cheaper way to get there. After spending nearly $50 on various poor quality combination squares, I bit the bullet and bought a Starrett from Amazon. Someone else said: five mediocre saw blades cost as much as one good one and never cut as well. As soon as the Starrett arrived, I started checking the other "squares" and found out: a) my two Rockler "clamp it" assembly squares aren't even close to being square b) my 16" Stanley Contractor grade combination square isn't square (bow in the middle) c) my free Grizzly combination square is a smidge better than the Stanley, but still not square d) my Johnson combination square from the Borg is worse than the Stanley and Grizz e) my random assortment of 3 drafting squares are square I was quite surprised to see the plastic drafting sqaures do so well. Of course, I'm not a machinist, nor do I work for NIST. And I did NOT use a feeler gauge to judge the results. But those drafting squares, from the 5" to the 14", ones were the best I had. Next on the to-do list, is to order some inexpensive Engineer's Squares from HF and check those out too. If you're agonizing over a Starrett (or similar quality brand square) and can afford it, do so. You'll finally have one reference instrument. I'll keep the Stanley in the drawer and use it to judge the accuracy/precision of tools I'll use daily. |
#2
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It's very easy to check a square.
Get a straight edged sheet of plywood and drw a line square to the edge. Turn the square round and it should match the drawn line. If it doesn't, the square is out by 1/2 the difference between the square and the line. John |
#3
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![]() "John Manders" wrote in message ... It's very easy to check a square. Get a straight edged sheet of plywood and drw a line square to the edge. Turn the square round and it should match the drawn line. If it doesn't, the square is out by 1/2 the difference between the square and the line. John You do not need a square to do this just cut a peice of wood and flip it over onto itself Same rule if the end do not line up you are out 1/2 that amount to test a 45 degree mitre cut 4 peices the exact same length with the 45 on each end lay them on a table in a square if the last joint is open at all divide that distance by 8 The shortewr the sample peices are the more accurate you will be I like peices about 6 to 8 long Good luck, George |
#4
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On Fri, 03 Oct 2003 13:02:14 GMT, "mttt" wrote:
If you're agonizing over a Starrett (or similar quality brand square) and can afford it, do so. You'll finally have one reference instrument. I'll keep the Stanley in the drawer and use it to judge the accuracy/precision of tools I'll use daily. USE THE STARRETT DAILY!!! G It dosen't like the darkness of the drawer! It'll wilt and die! Once you do, you'll appreciate that the quality goes way beyond "square". Barry |
#5
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This has only been repeated on here about a thousand times and in this
thread. "John Manders" wrote in message ... It's very easy to check a square. Get a straight edged sheet of plywood and drw a line square to the edge. Turn the square round and it should match the drawn line. If it doesn't, the square is out by 1/2 the difference between the square and the line. John |
#6
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![]() "mttt" wrote in message et... I, like many others, agonized over the expense of $70 for a Starrett combination square. I thought there had to be a cheaper way to get there. After spending nearly $50 on various poor quality combination squares, I bit the bullet and bought a Starrett from Amazon. Someone else said: five mediocre saw blades cost as much as one good one and never cut as well. As soon as the Starrett arrived, I started checking the other "squares" and found out: a) my two Rockler "clamp it" assembly squares aren't even close to being square b) my 16" Stanley Contractor grade combination square isn't square (bow in the middle) c) my free Grizzly combination square is a smidge better than the Stanley, but still not square d) my Johnson combination square from the Borg is worse than the Stanley and Grizz e) my random assortment of 3 drafting squares are square I was quite surprised to see the plastic drafting sqaures do so well. Of course, I'm not a machinist, nor do I work for NIST. And I did NOT use a feeler gauge to judge the results. But those drafting squares, from the 5" to the 14", ones were the best I had. Next on the to-do list, is to order some inexpensive Engineer's Squares from HF and check those out too. If you're agonizing over a Starrett (or similar quality brand square) and can afford it, do so. You'll finally have one reference instrument. I'll keep the Stanley in the drawer and use it to judge the accuracy/precision of tools I'll use daily. How do you know the Starrett is square? J |
#7
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On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 15:54:26 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
wrote: How do you know the Starrett is square? It's a Zen thing. It just _is_. G If it's not, Starrett will fix it! Barry |
#8
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How do you know the Starrett is square?
Because he paid $70.00 dollars for it "Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message t... "mttt" wrote in message et... I, like many others, agonized over the expense of $70 for a Starrett combination square. I thought there had to be a cheaper way to get there. After spending nearly $50 on various poor quality combination squares, I bit the bullet and bought a Starrett from Amazon. Someone else said: five mediocre saw blades cost as much as one good one and never cut as well. As soon as the Starrett arrived, I started checking the other "squares" and found out: a) my two Rockler "clamp it" assembly squares aren't even close to being square b) my 16" Stanley Contractor grade combination square isn't square (bow in the middle) c) my free Grizzly combination square is a smidge better than the Stanley, but still not square d) my Johnson combination square from the Borg is worse than the Stanley and Grizz e) my random assortment of 3 drafting squares are square I was quite surprised to see the plastic drafting sqaures do so well. Of course, I'm not a machinist, nor do I work for NIST. And I did NOT use a feeler gauge to judge the results. But those drafting squares, from the 5" to the 14", ones were the best I had. Next on the to-do list, is to order some inexpensive Engineer's Squares from HF and check those out too. If you're agonizing over a Starrett (or similar quality brand square) and can afford it, do so. You'll finally have one reference instrument. I'll keep the Stanley in the drawer and use it to judge the accuracy/precision of tools I'll use daily. How do you know the Starrett is square? J |
#9
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On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 15:54:26 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
Crawled out of the shop and said. . .: snip How do you know the Starrett is square? J SHHHH Keeter might hear you! *G* Traves |
#10
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What if you're a real butterfingers, like myself? I have thought
about spending some 'serious' money on a try square to use as a reference. I can't imagine that it would take too many tumbles off the workbench to reduce my $70 "reference" to a shiny, high quality paperweight. Snip USE THE STARRETT DAILY!!! G It dosen't like the darkness of the drawer! It'll wilt and die! Once you do, you'll appreciate that the quality goes way beyond "square". Barry |
#11
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#12
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Good tools are for using, not dropping. Fifteen years in a machine shop, I
never once dropped a precision tool. Just have to pay attention to what you are doing. "B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote in message ... On 5 Oct 2003 06:20:37 -0700, (Phil Crow) wrote: Good tools are for using, not looking at! G Barry |
#13
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![]() "Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message t... How do you know the Starrett is square? I don't. I *trust* it to be square. |
#14
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On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 12:55:14 GMT, "mttt"
pixelated: "Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message et... How do you know the Starrett is square? I don't. I *trust* it to be square. Scratch and flip. (As opposed to scratch 'n sniff, Davey.) ..-. Life is short. Eat dessert first! --- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development |
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