I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

"yugami" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

I am sure you can find reams of information on the internet about wood
strength.
Mahogany and cherry are both medium strength woods, so it shouldn't be an
issue, but it is easy enough to check.

"yugami" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?


Its all about proper construction technique. Wood strength tends to be
important but not as much as you would think considering the fact that Water
Beds are held up by Pine sticks stapled together.

On Sep 6, 4:09 pm, "Wade Lippman" wrote:
"yugami" wrote in message

oups.com...

I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

I am sure you can find reams of information on the internet about wood
strength.
Mahogany and cherry are both medium strength woods, so it shouldn't be an
issue, but it is easy enough to check.

I ran into the Wood Handbook so I'll check that out tonight and see if
that has anything. Good to know they're both medium. For some reason
I was thinking Mahogany was one of the stronger woods.

On Sep 6, 4:44 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"yugami" wrote in message

Are their any good guidelines for this?

Its all about proper construction technique. Wood strength tends to be
important but not as much as you would think considering the fact that Water
Beds are held up by Pine sticks stapled together.

Well, like I said, I kind of winged the last one. Apparently I didn't
do enough math. Looks like in places I was short by an easy inch of
wood for some of the supports.

I also went radical and designed it as 2 rails with feet that where
joined together instead of a more traditional head and foot with 2
rails.

"Leon" wrote in
t:

snip
Its all about proper construction technique. Wood strength tends to
be important but not as much as you would think considering the fact
that Water Beds are held up by Pine sticks stapled together.


No, not really. They're held up by particle boards standing on edge under
plywood sheeting, covered with plastic. All holding about 3 tons of water.
;-0

We used to have one. Didn't everybody, back in the day? One of the more
interesting experiences in life is to get out of a warm, dry waterbed to
take care of a noisy youngster, and step into a really wet carpet. The
rain had filled up a planter bed, and it had soaked under the wall,
completely soaking the master bedroom. I spent the day draining the
planter, installing french drain in the heavy rain, and wet vacuuming the
bedroom rug.

Thank goodness that was before we had any money to spend on decent
furniture...

Patriarch, who learned a lot of these lessons the hard way, too.

yugami wrote:
I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans.
The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on
the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

Couple of tools you might find useful:
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/wdpick.htm
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:38:21 -0000, yugami
wrote:

I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?


I have to agree with another post, saying that pine will hold up a
waterbed. My king size pine waterbed, made in 1978, has been used
everyday and it has not failed. You should use a proven design and
use mortise and tenon joinery. I know that hickory is a very strong
wood, but use whatever you think looks good or select a hardwood that
is a good value (cherry is in big demand right now).

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 21:44:11 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"yugami" wrote in message
roups.com...
I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans. The
results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?


Its all about proper construction technique. Wood strength tends to be
important but not as much as you would think considering the fact that Water
Beds are held up by Pine sticks stapled together.


I agree. I had a rail split on a bed i made one time. On close
inspection the way I had added the connector and rail flange had left
stress points on the end which was unreinforced end grain. This was
cherry, but, I don't think the type of hardwood would have mattered.
My design was wrong.

Frank

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...
"Leon" wrote in
t:

snip
Its all about proper construction technique. Wood strength tends to
be important but not as much as you would think considering the fact
that Water Beds are held up by Pine sticks stapled together.


No, not really. They're held up by particle boards standing on edge under
plywood sheeting, covered with plastic. All holding about 3 tons of
water.
;-0


Oh you must be familiar with the New style beds. LOL... the one that I
have helped my sister-in-law move countless times and for the last I hope
was built in the early 70's. The lower section has 6 drawers on each side
stacked 2 high and is all pine. There is a particle board platform on top
of that.

On Sep 7, 12:53 am, "J. Clarke" wrote:
yugami wrote:
Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on
the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

Couple of tools you might find useful:http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/wdpick..../sagulator.htm

Thanks, those look handy.

On Sep 7, 5:04 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:38:21 -0000, yugami
wrote:

I know that hickory is a very strong
wood, but use whatever you think looks good or select a hardwood that
is a good value (cherry is in big demand right now).


Thats a good point to take into consideration as well. I hadn't
considered hickory.
Searching for info on it I found this site:
http://www.hardwoodinfo.com

Which has good descriptions of different woods as well as a little
sample of the grain/finish

Phisherman wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:38:21 -0000, yugami
wrote:

I'm considering making a bed based on these plans. (small
aesthetic/
practicle tweaks like lowering the footboard to just over the
bottom
of the mattress so I don't kick it, I'm tall)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273341.html

However I don't want to use Mahogany, I was thinking of Cherry
perhaps.

Now I had made a bed previously, and didn't base it on any plans.
The results ended in the bed breaking as I didn't use thick enough
material. (It was also too tall and my wife had to hop to get in
the
bed, she's short)

Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on
the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong. I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?


I have to agree with another post, saying that pine will hold up a
waterbed. My king size pine waterbed, made in 1978, has been used
everyday and it has not failed. You should use a proven design and
use mortise and tenon joinery. I know that hickory is a very strong
wood, but use whatever you think looks good or select a hardwood
that
is a good value (cherry is in big demand right now).

While properly designed pine will hold up a waterbed, that doesn't
mean that a bed frame designed for a conventional mattress and spring
will necessarily do so.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

yugami wrote:
On Sep 7, 12:53 am, "J. Clarke" wrote:
yugami wrote:
Now I'm worried that the dimensions may have been chosen based on
the
strength of the wood, and perhaps other woods are not as strong.
I
would prefer to keep this one from breaking

Are their any good guidelines for this?

Couple of tools you might find
useful:http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/wdpick..../sagulator.htm

Thanks, those look handy.

Also, if you want solid engineering data try
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp.../fplgtr113.htm,
which has been the standard reference on the engineering of wooden
structures since long before there was an Internet.

For more detailed information on specific wood species try
http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/. Use the "wood properties" link first and
if that does't get you to it then try the "common names" link.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Thank you for posting the link to American Hardwood Information Center, it
appears to be a very informative site.


Mike
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
"yugami" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 7, 5:04 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:38:21 -0000, yugami
wrote:

I know that hickory is a very strong
wood, but use whatever you think looks good or select a hardwood that
is a good value (cherry is in big demand right now).


Thats a good point to take into consideration as well. I hadn't
considered hickory.
Searching for info on it I found this site:
http://www.hardwoodinfo.com

Which has good descriptions of different woods as well as a little
sample of the grain/finish

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Phisherman wrote:

While properly designed pine will hold up a waterbed, that doesn't
mean that a bed frame designed for a conventional mattress and spring
will necessarily do so.


Absolutely correct. Pine like any other wood has to be used correctly to
make use of its strength. A pine bed for a conventional mattress and spring
is not a problem if it is properly constructed.