Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago, spent some time last
weekend sharpening the blade but didn't have anything to use it on at the
time.

This week, I had the opportunity to fine-tune some mortise & tenon joints
for the headboard I'm building. I cut the tenons a bit larger than the
mortises to allow me the ability to fine tune the fit. In the past, I have
used a block plane, wood file, and wood rasp to tune the joint. the block
plane can't reach to the shoulder of the joint, so the file and rasp are
needed for that. The purpose for getting the shoulder plane was to
preclude having to go through these steps (filing never seemed to give the
flat profile one would like). What a difference! Just a few well-placed
strokes, some fine whispy shavings, and voila! a nice, tight fitting joint
with a flat-profiled cheek.

Please note, I'm not saying that a Lie-Nielsen shoulder plane is required
-- any well-tuned shoulder plane will serve the same purpose. But, if you
haven't got a shoulder plane and do a lot of M&T joinery, it is certainly
worth getting a good shoulder plane. I'm sold.

A lot of you already know all this, some of us are just slow getting on
board.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Mark & Juanita wrote in
:


Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago, snip I'm sold.

A lot of you already know all this, some of us are just slow getting
on board.


When I started, I couldn't see spending that kind of cash. Six or seven
years later, I have 6 or 8 LN planes, a wallet full of their scrapers, a
roll full of their chisels, a couple of their saws, and a couple of other
things in the toolchest.

There are other ways to get things done, but the folks from LN make mighty
fine products. So do some other folks, too, btw.

When Lee Valley first brought out their Medium shoulder plane, I got one,
and I had somewhat the same experience as you described. Good work got
easier and more accurate than before.

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...
Mark & Juanita wrote in
:


Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago, snip I'm sold.

snip

When I started, I couldn't see spending that kind of cash. Six or seven
years later, I have 6 or 8 LN planes, snip

There are other ways to get things done, but the folks from LN make mighty
fine products. So do some other folks, too, btw.

When Lee Valley first brought out their Medium shoulder plane, I got one,
and I had somewhat the same experience as you described. Good work got
easier and more accurate than before.

Patriarch

I suspect if you find a shop with LN planes, you may very well find Veritas
planes also. :-)

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in
news:%wkxh.1011$6P4.691@trnddc06:


I suspect if you find a shop with LN planes, you may very well find
Veritas planes also. :-)


Hey! Don't go snooping around in that tool shrine! Those aren't for
loaning out to anybody!

;-)

Patriarch

The first problem I have with the LN (and Stanley as well as Clifton)
shoulder planes is the gripping positions - great for pushing, sucks
for pulling. Get a little aggressive and you can split out the far
side of the work and, despite probability, it will ALWAYS be where
it will show in the finished piece.

The second problem is setting the iron. It's several thousandths
wider than the width of the plane and easy to set cocked just
a little - but enough to skew the shoulders a little - again,
despite probability, in the direction that it'll show (joint won't
quite close tight).

The Veritas shoulder plane design deals with both these
problems - multiple, comfortable gripping positions and
set screws to avoid cocking the iron once you've got it
set right. When the edge starts to go one is more
likely to take it out and sharpen it knowing there's no
hassle when reinstalling it.

LN specializes in taking older traditional plane designs
and making them with superior materials and to better
tolerances.

Veritas on the other hand seems to start with a clean
piece of paper and designs for function, with ease of
maintenance and use high on their criteria list. If
shiny brass or bronze doesn't do anything to make
the tool easier to use or work better then it ain't
gonna be in the plane they make. Pretty is nice but
sort of like burl dashboards - doesn't make the car
drive any better.

If you need to protect your tools in a special "sock"
you're getting into the fine silver and fine china
territory - the stuff that's only used "when there's
company over". A woodworking tool shouldn't
come with a polishing cloth -IMHO.

Having said all that, the LN rabbet/block plane
and their bronze beading tool sure are pretty
to look at - and hold. They work pretty well too.

charlie b

On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 20:58:08 -0700, Mark & Juanita
wrote:


Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago

If you're going to use it to plane rocks I'm afraid you're not allowed
to keep it. You'll need to send it to me immediately.


-Leuf

If your shoulder plane rocks, I would suggest taking it
to a machine shop and have them flatten the sole. Just
make sure they flatten the sole perpendicular to the
side.

:-)

John
(Rocks? I remember when I used to speak English.)
--
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in
message
...
|
| Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago,
spent some time last
| weekend sharpening the blade but didn't have anything
to use it on at the
| time.
|
| This week, I had the opportunity to fine-tune some
mortise & tenon joints
| for the headboard I'm building. I cut the tenons a
bit larger than the
| mortises to allow me the ability to fine tune the
fit. In the past, I have
| used a block plane, wood file, and wood rasp to tune
the joint. the block
| plane can't reach to the shoulder of the joint, so
the file and rasp are
| needed for that. The purpose for getting the
shoulder plane was to
| preclude having to go through these steps (filing
never seemed to give the
| flat profile one would like). What a difference!
Just a few well-placed
| strokes, some fine whispy shavings, and voila! a
nice, tight fitting joint
| with a flat-profiled cheek.
|
| Please note, I'm not saying that a Lie-Nielsen
shoulder plane is required
| -- any well-tuned shoulder plane will serve the same
purpose. But, if you
| haven't got a shoulder plane and do a lot of M&T
joinery, it is certainly
| worth getting a good shoulder plane. I'm sold.
|
| A lot of you already know all this, some of us are
just slow getting on
| board.
|
|
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------+
|
| If you're gonna be dumb, you better be
tough
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------+