I am having a little trouble centering my router on a table insert.

I picked up a Skil 1825, and a Freud Universal Router Table Base (the
black phenolic one with the red and grey inserts). The problem is that
in order to mount the router, I have to use the router baseplate as a
drill template, and centering it on the table base after removing it
from the router is pretty much a hit and miss operation.

What I did so far was:
1. unscrewed the router base
2. put a Freud guide bushing (3/8" ID) into the table base insert
3. mounted a 1/4" pilot bit in the router collet
4. put the router and base on the table insert, with the pilot bit
centred in the guide bushing as best I could
5. Taped the router base edges to the table base
6. Clamped the router base to the table base
6. drilled and countersunk holes (with drill press) using the router
base mounting holes as guides.

I think I may have let something slip a bit, and perhaps did so even
after I drilled the first two or three holes. I can just get the
router attached to the table base. It's difficult because one or two
of the holes are visibly offset after I line up two of them.

The end result is that when I put in the 3/8" ID guide bushing and the
1/4" pilot bit, the bit is in contact with one side of the ID of the
guide bushing. So, it's close, but I want it closer.

I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

I am also considering through-drilling the threaded mounting holes and
tapping them for 10-32 (8-32 in there now). This way, I could centre
everything up. then drop a bit down through the drilled out holes and
starting a hole in the table base by finger twisting the bit..

I might even be better off turning a hunk of aluminum with a 1/4" or
1/2" 'shaft' and a shoulder the right size to fit the opening in the
Skil base.

Anyway, I have seen some great answers here, and wonder if anyone
might have a suggestion as to the best way to proceed.

Thanks,
Larry

"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.


Pretty much standard installation to have oversize holes and pan-head screws
to allow centering in the counterbores. I wouldn't be ashamed of such an
installation.

Unless you're working with machine tools of some sort, the kind of accuracy
that will allow the taper of a screw head to draw the thing centered seems
a trial and accidental success adventure.

Here's what I did, and it seemed to work pretty well...

I've got a Dewalt 618PK, which has a 1/4" pilot bit and a 'cone thingy'
on it. the idea is to put the plate on, then the 'cone thingy',
pointed toward the router, and push the cone down the pilot bit until
it centers the plate or base. So, I:

1. Removed the base from the router and placed double-stick tape on the
bottom of the router.

2. Chuck the pilot bit.

3. Lay the plate down gently on the router (no pressure).

4. Put the cone on the pilot bit and slide it down until the plate is
centered.

5. Remove the cone.

6. Put doublestick tape on the router base, and lower it gently onto
the plate.

7. Put the cone back on and slide down the pilot bit until base is
centered, then press down on the base to secure it to the plate.

8. Drill the holes.

I believe the 'cone thingy' may be available seperately from Dewalt,
but I'm not positive. I saw something similar at

http://www.davehylands.com/Wood-Work...Centering-Jig/

and another option at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../routacc1.html

Oleg Lego wrote:
I am having a little trouble centering my router on a table insert.

I picked up a Skil 1825, and a Freud Universal Router Table Base (the
black phenolic one with the red and grey inserts). The problem is that
in order to mount the router, I have to use the router baseplate as a
drill template, and centering it on the table base after removing it
from the router is pretty much a hit and miss operation.

What I did so far was:
1. unscrewed the router base
2. put a Freud guide bushing (3/8" ID) into the table base insert
3. mounted a 1/4" pilot bit in the router collet
4. put the router and base on the table insert, with the pilot bit
centred in the guide bushing as best I could
5. Taped the router base edges to the table base
6. Clamped the router base to the table base
6. drilled and countersunk holes (with drill press) using the router
base mounting holes as guides.

I think I may have let something slip a bit, and perhaps did so even
after I drilled the first two or three holes. I can just get the
router attached to the table base. It's difficult because one or two
of the holes are visibly offset after I line up two of them.

The end result is that when I put in the 3/8" ID guide bushing and the
1/4" pilot bit, the bit is in contact with one side of the ID of the
guide bushing. So, it's close, but I want it closer.

I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

Either is satisfactory. Main thing is to get the router fastened to the
table insert...router need not be dead center on it.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

The George entity posted thusly:


"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

Pretty much standard installation to have oversize holes and pan-head screws
to allow centering in the counterbores. I wouldn't be ashamed of such an
installation.

That sound you hear is the slapping of my palm against my forehead!

Dang! The router base is held on with flat-head screws, and both the
router base and table base have countersunk holes. The instructions
that came with the table base specify countersunk holes.

I offer this in a feeble attempt to excuse my tunnel vision, which
caused me to just go with the countersinking, and not even considering
pan-head screws, oversized holes, and counterbores.

Unless you're working with machine tools of some sort, the kind of accuracy
that will allow the taper of a screw head to draw the thing centered seems
a trial and accidental success adventure.

You're absolutely right, of course!

Thanks a bunch, George.

---
I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like
my grandfather, not screaming in terror,
like his passengers.

The dadiOH entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:
I am having a little trouble centering my router on a table insert.

I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

Either is satisfactory. Main thing is to get the router fastened to the
table insert...router need not be dead center on it.

Hmmm... I was thinking that it did need to be dead centre, because the
guide bushing (which gets mounted on the table insert) would have a
variable distance from the bit depending on where the cut is being
guided around the circle.

dadiOH wrote:

Either is satisfactory. Main thing is to get the router fastened to the
table insert...router need not be dead center on it.

If your table insert is designed to accept threaded guide bushings, and
the router is not centered on the insert, then the bits will not be
centered with respect to the guide bushing.

If your insert doesn't take bushings, then this is not an issue.

Chris

Oleg Lego wrote:
The dadiOH entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:
I am having a little trouble centering my router on a table insert.

I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

Either is satisfactory. Main thing is to get the router fastened to
the table insert...router need not be dead center on it.

Hmmm... I was thinking that it did need to be dead centre, because the
guide bushing (which gets mounted on the table insert) would have a
variable distance from the bit depending on where the cut is being
guided around the circle.

All true. I put my inserts on the router.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

The George entity posted thusly:

"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
.. .
I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

Pretty much standard installation to have oversize holes and pan-head screws
to allow centering in the counterbores. I wouldn't be ashamed of such an
installation.

Got it, George, thanks!

I ended up rotating the router a bit and drilling new (counterbored)
holes, then used pan-head screws. Chucked up a pilot bit, mounted a
guide bushing, and tightened everything up.
Worked like a charm, and I even have a few extra holes in the table
baseplate to remind me about tunnel vision. :-)

---
I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like
my grandfather, not screaming in terror,
like his passengers.

Larry,

Transfer punches work like magic to reproduce hole pattterns from one thing to another precisely.

Grizzly makes a great 28 piece set perfect for mouting your router to aftermarket plates, buiding your own templates, jigs etc etc. Grizzly part number is below along with an Amazon link were you can pick up a set for about 11 bucks.

Grizzly G5651 28 pc. Transfer Punch Set - 3/32" - 1/2"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

Paul


"Oleg Lego" wrote in message ...
I am having a little trouble centering my router on a table insert.

I picked up a Skil 1825, and a Freud Universal Router Table Base (the
black phenolic one with the red and grey inserts). The problem is that
in order to mount the router, I have to use the router baseplate as a
drill template, and centering it on the table base after removing it
from the router is pretty much a hit and miss operation.

What I did so far was:
1. unscrewed the router base
2. put a Freud guide bushing (3/8" ID) into the table base insert
3. mounted a 1/4" pilot bit in the router collet
4. put the router and base on the table insert, with the pilot bit
centred in the guide bushing as best I could
5. Taped the router base edges to the table base
6. Clamped the router base to the table base
6. drilled and countersunk holes (with drill press) using the router
base mounting holes as guides.

I think I may have let something slip a bit, and perhaps did so even
after I drilled the first two or three holes. I can just get the
router attached to the table base. It's difficult because one or two
of the holes are visibly offset after I line up two of them.

The end result is that when I put in the 3/8" ID guide bushing and the
1/4" pilot bit, the bit is in contact with one side of the ID of the
guide bushing. So, it's close, but I want it closer.

I am considering messing with one or two of the holes I drilled,
perhaps enlarging the appropriate holes to try to swing the centre
into alignment, or perhaps drilling another set of holes after
rotating the router a bit.

I am also considering through-drilling the threaded mounting holes and
tapping them for 10-32 (8-32 in there now). This way, I could centre
everything up. then drop a bit down through the drilled out holes and
starting a hole in the table base by finger twisting the bit..

I might even be better off turning a hunk of aluminum with a 1/4" or
1/2" 'shaft' and a shoulder the right size to fit the opening in the
Skil base.

Anyway, I have seen some great answers here, and wonder if anyone
might have a suggestion as to the best way to proceed.

Thanks,
Larry

Mon, Jan 9, 2006, 10:35am (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth now admit:
That sound you hear is the slapping of my palm against my forehead!
snip

I wondered why in Hell you were trying to make rocket science out
of it.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
I ended up rotating the router a bit and drilling new (counterbored)
holes, then used pan-head screws. Chucked up a pilot bit, mounted a
guide bushing, and tightened everything up.
Worked like a charm, and I even have a few extra holes in the table
baseplate to remind me about tunnel vision. :-)

If it experiences drift with vibration, don't hesitate to use star washers.

I make my own bases from polycarbonate scraps I get from the local
glass dealer. First mount the base to the router with careful layout of
the holes. Then install router bits of the right size to accomodate
whatever guide system you use and plunge the router through the base.
Makes a perfectly centered hole and is a Hell of a lot cheaper. I also
make custom bases for many different applications.
Bugs

Tue, Jan 10, 2006, 12:42am (EST-1)
(Ranger*Paul) who doth say:
Transfer punches work like magic to reproduce hole pattterns*from one
thing to another precisely.snip

And a penil doesn't?



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

The Ranger Paul entity posted thusly:

Larry,

Transfer punches work like magic to reproduce hole pattterns from one thing to another precisely.

I didn't (and still don't) see how I could use a transfer punch. The
problem was that the router base had a proprietary sized hole in it,
so I couldn't use the base itself as a template, because there was no
way to accurately centre it.

This left using the router itself, complete with a pilot bit, to
centre it using the Freud guide bushing mounted in the table base. But
with the router in place, I could not see the holes, as they are
tapped, blind holes in the router, and as such, I did not have a place
to put the transfer punches.

Thanks for the link, though. I don't have any transfer punches.

The Bugs entity posted thusly:

I make my own bases from polycarbonate scraps I get from the local
glass dealer. First mount the base to the router with careful layout of
the holes.

It's the 'careful layout of the holes' that's giving me problems. I
guess I could do it by using the existing router base as a template,
because it would be before cutting the central hole.

Tell me more about the polycarbonate (is that Lexan?) scraps. What
sort of thickness are they? Would they be suitable for a table base
(strong enough to not sag)?

Then install router bits of the right size to accomodate
whatever guide system you use and plunge the router through the base.
Makes a perfectly centered hole and is a Hell of a lot cheaper. I also
make custom bases for many different applications.
Bugs

Good idea, but how do I go about making the little ledge? My Freud
guide bushings go into a hole that is stepped, so that the face of the
bushing rides flush with the base.

Thanks,
Larry

The J T entity posted thusly:

Tue, Jan 10, 2006, 12:42am (EST-1)
(Ranger*Paul) who doth say:
Transfer punches work like magic to reproduce hole pattterns*from one
thing to another precisely.snip

And a penil doesn't?

Hmm.. _MY_ penil won't fit in that hole.

Tue, Jan 10, 2006, 2:53pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth admit:
Hmm.. _MY_ penil won't fit in that hole.

Ah, you obviously don't have lead in your pencil.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:51:01 +0100, "andypack"
wrote:

Hi Larry.
.... snip
Hope this help!

Another approach would be to make a transparent template using the router
base itself, then attach the transparent template to the base you want to
drill. This was detailed in ShopNotes #85, Jan/Feb 2006 pp 5


+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

The andypack entity posted thusly:

Hi Larry.

.... a good set of instructions snipped ...

Hope this help!

It does! I will refer to that one for my next tabletop!

The Mark & Juanita entity posted thusly:

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:51:01 +0100, "andypack"
wrote:

Hi Larry.
... snip
Hope this help!

Another approach would be to make a transparent template using the router
base itself, then attach the transparent template to the base you want to
drill. This was detailed in ShopNotes #85, Jan/Feb 2006 pp 5

How would the transparent base be any better for the purpose than the
router base itself?

On Wed, 11 Jan 2006 23:21:18 -0600, Oleg Lego
wrote:

The Mark & Juanita entity posted thusly:

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:51:01 +0100, "andypack"
wrote:

Hi Larry.
... snip
Hope this help!

Another approach would be to make a transparent template using the router
base itself, then attach the transparent template to the base you want to
drill. This was detailed in ShopNotes #85, Jan/Feb 2006 pp 5

How would the transparent base be any better for the purpose than the
router base itself?

I think the idea is that you can paste the tranparency to whatever you
are planning to mill and leave it attached during the milling process --
that way you avoid accidentally milling the real base. Disadvantage: the
real base provides you with a drill guide to assure your holes are
accurately aligned.

Not necessarily advocating so much as pointing out another method.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
Another approach would be to make a transparent template using the
router
base itself, then attach the transparent template to the base you want to
drill. This was detailed in ShopNotes #85, Jan/Feb 2006 pp 5

How would the transparent base be any better for the purpose than the
router base itself?

I think the idea is that you can paste the tranparency to whatever you
are planning to mill and leave it attached during the milling process --
that way you avoid accidentally milling the real base. Disadvantage: the
real base provides you with a drill guide to assure your holes are
accurately aligned.

Not necessarily advocating so much as pointing out another method.


It's not locating the holes properly for attachment, rather locating them
properly for collet center that counts. Means you begin with collet/bit
center as your prime reference. Unfortunately, that tends to fall in the
middle of a large hole in your new base. You'd have to make an insert and
center properly on the center point to begin.

It's the 'careful layout of the holes' that's giving me problems. I
guess I could do it by using the existing router base as a template,
because it would be before cutting the central hole.

Tell me more about the polycarbonate (is that Lexan?) scraps. What
sort of thickness are they? Would they be suitable for a table base
(strong enough to not sag)?

I assumed that you had basic measuring equipment. The screw hole layout
is usually an even multiple, ie. 4.5" or 250 mm. I locate where I want
the center hole and scribe an accurate circle that will pass through
the center of the mounting holes. Then I scribe the 'bolt' circle with
dividers by trial and error until the holes are perfectly spaced, 3 or
4 depending on the router. Once the centers are located, carefully
prick punch them and align under the drill press with a pointed
centering bit. Then drill and countersink as required. This is a pretty
basic exercise in hand layout which any apprentice has to learn.
I use 3/8" Lexan for my bases. That's what the expensive router bases
are made from, but you can't always depend on an accurate mounting hole
layout from them.
Using it for a table depends entirely on the size of the table. Lexan
is plastic and will flex slightly on a large span.

Bugs

Good idea, but how do I go about making the little ledge? My Freud
guide bushings go into a hole that is stepped, so that the face of the
bushing rides flush with the base.

The step diameters on my bushing set happenen to match the dia's. of my
router bit set. Need to set the plunge depth carefully or you will ruin
the whole job. It's just a matter of being careful.
Bugs

Hi Larry.

One easy way to transfer correctly centered drill hole locations from your
router to the table insert would be to use an intermediate base made of a
flat, rigid and cheap material such as 1/4-inch hardboard.

Using your original baseplate, mark screw hole locations in a piece of
hardboard or other suitable material. Drill holes the exact size of the
screw used (no need to countersink / counterbore here) then mount the new
base on your router. If the base holes won’t align with the ones on the
router casting, you’ll have to redo the marking / drilling with suitable
corrections (this has to be precise). Mark the outside surface of the
board as “TOP” and an arrow to show the orientation you want for the
router once installed (remember that your router will be mounted upside
down on the table). Put a bit in the router collet of the same size as the
external dimension of the guide bushing you will put in the plastic insert
(you may have a 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8” inch bushing and a correspondingly-sized
bit).

Now plunge the bit through the hardboard plate. With a fixed-base router,
you may have to take special precautions to avoid motor wobble and
consequent precision loss. For this, you may have to partially tighten
whatever locking mechanism you have on the router and carefully lower the
bit into the base.

It’s almost finished. Insert your bushing in the plastic insert on the
table, lay the hardboard base over it (with the TOP marking showing) and
mark the screw hole locations on the table’s mounting plate. Double, even
triple check everything, be careful, and everything should be all right.
Then, take a deep breath and drill the insert plate.

Hope this help!

Andre from Montreal

Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 7:05am George@least (George) doth amaze me:
It's not locating the holes properly for attachment, rather locating
them properly for collet center that counts. Means you begin with
collet/bit center as your prime reference. Unfortunately, that tends to
fall in the middle of a large hole in your new base. You'd have to make
an insert and center properly on the center point to begin.

This thread is absolutely fasciating. Hard for me to decide that
either I'm a total genius (possible - LOL), or I made my router table
100% wrong - and I don't think so.

My router lives in the router table, so I didn't worry about taking
it in and out. Would have been easy enough to do tho.

What I did was drill a hole in the middle of the table, for the bit
to go thru. Then used the router base to lay out the screw holes.
Drilled, and counter sunk the holes. I used 3/4" plywood for the table
top, so did have to take a bit out on the underside, but that was no
prob - too thick otherwise, should have cut a lalge hold in the 3/4",
then topped with 1/4", and put the screw holes in that. But, didn't
have any 1/4" on hand, so just went with what I had. Anyway, just
screwed the router in. No prob.

I didn't measure any of this, just eyeballed it. Would have been
simple enough to square out tho. Find the exact center of the table
(just go from corner to corner), mark it. Then reference the screw
holes, et all, from the center. No prob.

If I'd wanted the router so I could slip it in and out of the
table, I'd probably have gone with 1/4" ply over 3/4". Square base on
the router, sqpare hole in the 1/4". Smaller, round hole, to take the
router, in the 3/4".

The router bit hole is maybe 1 1/2" to 2". The hole size is no
prob. I opened up the previous router that was there, and there was
absolutely NO sawdust in it. The router running blows it away, so
sawdust dosn't drop in.

I've used this version, for years, with no problems at all. I'm
gonna need a slightly different router table soon tho, but pretty sure
I'll keep this one, and just make another.

What's really fascinating to me is, I didn't ask anyone anything
about how to do it. Just looked at the router, and decided how to do
it, did it. Probably took me a couple of hours, not including glue
drying time. All I bought was the screws, and some nuts, washers,
bolts. Couldn't hve bought anything that would have worked for me. I
did look at a couple of store-bought router tables first, but,
basically, that was it.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 07:05:16 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
.. .
Another approach would be to make a transparent template using the
router
base itself, then attach the transparent template to the base you want to
drill. This was detailed in ShopNotes #85, Jan/Feb 2006 pp 5

How would the transparent base be any better for the purpose than the
router base itself?

I think the idea is that you can paste the tranparency to whatever you
are planning to mill and leave it attached during the milling process --
that way you avoid accidentally milling the real base. Disadvantage: the
real base provides you with a drill guide to assure your holes are
accurately aligned.

Not necessarily advocating so much as pointing out another method.


It's not locating the holes properly for attachment, rather locating them
properly for collet center that counts. Means you begin with collet/bit
center as your prime reference. Unfortunately, that tends to fall in the
middle of a large hole in your new base. You'd have to make an insert and
center properly on the center point to begin.



What I did to make an accurately centered base for my Bosch 1613EVS was:
1. Used the old base as a template to shape a new base from 1/4" melamine
coated MDF,
2. Drilled all the mounting holes as accurately as possible in the newly
shaped base,
3. Attached the new base to the router with a centering bit mounted in the
router.
4. I then plunged the centering bit gently onto the new base, using the
mark left by the centering bit the same way one would use a center punch.
[note, I did say gently plunged in an unplugged router, I did not want to
damage the point of the centering bit].
5. Using the center point, I then used the drill press and a small,
straight drill bit to drill a pilot hole
6. Used the appropriately dimensioned forstner bit to drill a hole for the
top portion of a PC brass template ring using the top of the pilot hole for
the starting point and the drill press depth stop to attain the proper
depth.
7. Used the appropriately dimensioned forstner bit to drill a hole for the
lower portion of the PC brass template using the bottom of the pilot hole
and the drill press depth stop to attain the proper depth.
8. Re-attached to router base and confirmed that my 1/32" plus centering
error had been reduced below my means to measure it.
9. Celebrated with great joy and gusto in preparation for making many
dovetails with leigh jig for Captain's bed drawers




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

The J T entity posted thusly:

What I did was drill a hole in the middle of the table, for the bit
to go thru.

OK, but I am trying to attach the router to a table base (Freud
Universal Table Base). I guess you might call it an insert. It
requires a rectangular hole in the table top, with a step/ledge. I
managed to mount the base on the table.

There are two problems with the next step.

1. The table base has a 1 3/8 hole in its smallest insert (it has
two inserts, one inside the other)
2. The router base has a central hole somewhat larger than 1 3/8
(I don't know how big. I didn't measure it).

I did not wish to buy a Skil guide bushing set, as I already own a
Freud set, which fits the table base insert. So, I can mount a Freud
guide bushing, and can then chuck a bit in the router to approximately
centre it (have to eyeball, because the IDs of the guide bushings are
not an exact fit for any of the bits I have that would be suitable for
centering (ie. pilot bit).

Then used the router base to lay out the screw holes.
Drilled, and counter sunk the holes.

So, I then mount the router, with the bit sticking through the guide
bushing, and get set to drill the holes. Oops... the router base is
not visible, so I have to take the router out and leave the base in
place in order to use the router base as a template.

Well, I tried that using tape to hold the router base to the table
base, with the result that the bit rubbed on the guide bushing when I
reassembled everything. It was close, but I don't think it was close
enough.

After following the suggestion to use pan-head screws and a flat
bottomed counterbore, I finally got the darn thing centred. Now I am
going to try making a base for the plunge base, using some Lexan I
picked up today.

I used 3/4" plywood for the table
top, so did have to take a bit out on the underside, but that was no
prob - too thick otherwise, should have cut a lalge hold in the 3/4",
then topped with 1/4", and put the screw holes in that. But, didn't
have any 1/4" on hand, so just went with what I had. Anyway, just
screwed the router in. No prob.

Well, that sounds easy enough, but of course I ran into problems you
didn't, because of the weird hole size in the router base, and my
requirement to incorporate guide bushings.

I didn't measure any of this, just eyeballed it. Would have been
simple enough to square out tho. Find the exact center of the table
(just go from corner to corner), mark it. Then reference the screw
holes, et all, from the center. No prob.

If I'd wanted the router so I could slip it in and out of the
table, I'd probably have gone with 1/4" ply over 3/4". Square base on
the router, sqpare hole in the 1/4". Smaller, round hole, to take the
router, in the 3/4".

I do want to slip it in and out, mainly to change bits and guide
bushings. For hand-held work, I will swap the motor to the plunge
base, which will have the Lexan on the bottom.

The router bit hole is maybe 1 1/2" to 2". The hole size is no
prob.

Well, 1 1/2" to 2" is definitely not what I need. If it was, I could
tolerate a few 32nds in centering. I need a stepped hole, accurate to
a 64th or so, and the router centered to that.

What's really fascinating to me is, I didn't ask anyone anything
about how to do it. Just looked at the router, and decided how to do
it, did it.

That's what I tried. It didn't work worth beans, so I thought I'd find
out how others would approach the problem. Looks like the right way to
go would have been to make a new router base first, centering it on
the router, then using that as a template for the table base.

Oleg Lego wrote:

Well, that sounds easy enough, but of course I ran into problems you
didn't, because of the weird hole size in the router base, and my
requirement to incorporate guide bushings.

And that incorporated bushing requirement is the entire source of your
difficulties. Frankly, I can't see any reason to use them on the table
insert. Much easier and more accurate to simply use bushings on the
router plate itself rather than the table insert. A whole set is cheap
(less than $20)...and one really doesn't need a whole set.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 11:04pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth spread his tale of woe thusly:
**********What I did was drill a hole in the middle
of the table, for the bit to go thru.
OK, but I am trying to attach the router to a table base (Freud
Universal Table Base). I guess you might call it an insert. It requires
a rectangular hole in the table top, with a step/ledge. I managed to
mount the base on the table. snippeth

Now maybe you are starting to realize some of many reasons some of
us prefer to make our own router table(s). We can do it our way, not
someone else's way.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

The J T entity posted thusly:

Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 11:04pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth spread his tale of woe thusly:
**********What I did was drill a hole in the middle
of the table, for the bit to go thru.
OK, but I am trying to attach the router to a table base (Freud
Universal Table Base). I guess you might call it an insert. It requires
a rectangular hole in the table top, with a step/ledge. I managed to
mount the base on the table. snippeth

Now maybe you are starting to realize some of many reasons some of
us prefer to make our own router table(s). We can do it our way, not
someone else's way.

I must not be making myself clear. The problem is not with the
purchased table base/insert. It is with the router base that has a
weird nonstandard size central hole that provided no common alignment
possibilities. I had no problem at all mounting the table base/insert
to the tabletop.

In fact, I am trying to do it "my way", but my way includes allowing
the mounting of guide bushings to the table. I gather from dadiOH's
post, that this is not always done.

The dadiOH entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:

Well, that sounds easy enough, but of course I ran into problems you
didn't, because of the weird hole size in the router base, and my
requirement to incorporate guide bushings.

And that incorporated bushing requirement is the entire source of your
difficulties. Frankly, I can't see any reason to use them on the table
insert. Much easier and more accurate to simply use bushings on the
router plate itself rather than the table insert. A whole set is cheap
(less than $20)...and one really doesn't need a whole set.

Hmm... are you saying that you don't use bushings when routing with
the router mounted in the table?

Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 7:25pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth admit:
snip I am trying to do it "my way", but my way includes allowing the
mounting of guide bushings to the table. I gather from dadiOH's post,
that this is not always done.

No, it's "not" always done that way, probably ever. I use flush
trim bits. I've got a set of guide bushings, but have never used them -
and wouldn't "even" want to mess with them on a router table.

If it was me, and I wanted to spend time dorking with a router
table, I'd make a pin router.

So WHY?



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 8:11pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
hath decided to asketh:
Hmm... are you saying that you don't use bushings when routing with the
router mounted in the table?

Do you think?



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

Oleg Lego wrote:
The dadiOH entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:

Well, that sounds easy enough, but of course I ran into problems you
didn't, because of the weird hole size in the router base, and my
requirement to incorporate guide bushings.

And that incorporated bushing requirement is the entire source of
your difficulties. Frankly, I can't see any reason to use them on
the table insert. Much easier and more accurate to simply use
bushings on the router plate itself rather than the table insert. A
whole set is cheap (less than $20)...and one really doesn't need a
whole set.

Hmm... are you saying that you don't use bushings when routing with
the router mounted in the table?

Offhand I don't recall doing so but there is no reason I couldn't. But
I'd mount them on the router base and let the barrel stick up through
the hole in the table insert (to which the router base is screwed).
True, you'd lose part of the length of the template barrel but they are
too long anyway (for non-table use) and I always grind mine down to 1/4"
or a bit less long.

dadiOH

The J T entity posted thusly:

Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 8:11pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
hath decided to asketh:
Hmm... are you saying that you don't use bushings when routing with the
router mounted in the table?

Do you think?

I didn't know. That's why I asked. I could not determine from his
wording whether he did not use guide bushings at all when using a
table, or if he mounted the bushing to the router base. Turns out that
both were true, but that answer (and your reaction) only tells me that
we are all looking at the elephant from different perspectives.

The dadiOH entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:
Hmm... are you saying that you don't use bushings when routing with
the router mounted in the table?

Offhand I don't recall doing so but there is no reason I couldn't. But
I'd mount them on the router base and let the barrel stick up through
the hole in the table insert (to which the router base is screwed).
True, you'd lose part of the length of the template barrel but they are
too long anyway (for non-table use) and I always grind mine down to 1/4"
or a bit less long.

I just measured my Freud guide bushings. Some of the barrels are quite
long, two are about 1/4" already, and 1 is about 3/16 or a tad less.

Of course I cannot mount any of the bushings to my router base, as the
hole in the router base is far too large. I did not mount the router
base to the table insert. It never occurred to me to do so. I used the
router base only as a drilling template. I then mounted the router
fixed base directly to the table base. In case we are speaking
different languages here (it would not surprise me)...

router base: plastic 'foot' attached to fixed (or plunge) base

fixed (or plunge) base: metal thingy that the motor fits into, with
holes to mount router base

table base: plastic rectangular thingy that holds two concentric
removable inserts, the innermost of which is the right size to hold
the Freud guide bushings.

I suppose I could buy Skil's adapter and guide bushings, but I do plan
on getting another (better) router at some future point, and it would
be better to be able to use all the same bushings, I think.

The J T entity posted thusly:

Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 7:25pm (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
doth admit:
snip I am trying to do it "my way", but my way includes allowing the
mounting of guide bushings to the table. I gather from dadiOH's post,
that this is not always done.

No, it's "not" always done that way, probably ever. I use flush
trim bits. I've got a set of guide bushings, but have never used them -
and wouldn't "even" want to mess with them on a router table.

I see flush trim bits as good for routing to a pattern, but aren't
there other good uses for guide bushings?

I don't know what to call the operation, but using a guide bushing as
a sort of 'fence' looks to me like it would be real handy. The idea is
to make a sort of 'sled' with a slot that rides on each side of the
guide bushing(with little or no slop, side to side), with a fence on
it, that guides the work over the bit.

Hey, I'm just a novice at this stuff, so maybe there are better ways
to do these things. I'd be happy to learn.

If it was me, and I wanted to spend time dorking with a router
table, I'd make a pin router.

They look kind of neat, but aren't they overkill and useful for only a
few types of operations?

I have seen the sled that runs on a bushing used on the Router Workshop.
Interesting idea but nothing you couldn't do with a fence. A pin router
would be more versatile than a bushing setup. The pin takes the place of a
bearing or bushing. Only difference is that your template is on top. The pin
has an advantage over a bushing as it can be the same size as the bit so no
pattern offset is needed.


"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
I don't know what to call the operation, but using a guide bushing as
a sort of 'fence' looks to me like it would be real handy. The idea is
to make a sort of 'sled' with a slot that rides on each side of the
guide bushing(with little or no slop, side to side), with a fence on
it, that guides the work over the bit.
If it was me, and I wanted to spend time dorking with a router
table, I'd make a pin router.

They look kind of neat, but aren't they overkill and useful for only a
few types of operations?