I want to build a crosscut sled to handle panels at least 24 X 48. I'm
thinking of a sled about 48 wide X 30 deep, with 2 runners in the miter
slots. I have both rear and right side table extensions, so it will be
well-supported.

Here's the question: Is there any good reason not to offset the sled
to the right side of the blade? I'm thinking about having the left
side of the sled about even with the left miter slot. That way, only a
few inches of the sled is left of the blade, while the much larger
portion is on the right side of the blade, where it will support most
of the panel with only a little hanging off. The only downside I can
see so far is that the unequal sliding friction might cause the runners
to tend to bind. Anybody see a big mistake coming? Or am I just
thinking about it too much? I googled, but didn't come up with an
answer.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to build a crosscut sled to handle panels at least 24 X 48. I'm
thinking of a sled about 48 wide X 30 deep, with 2 runners in the miter
slots. I have both rear and right side table extensions, so it will be
well-supported.

Here's the question: Is there any good reason not to offset the sled
to the right side of the blade? I'm thinking about having the left
side of the sled about even with the left miter slot. That way, only a
few inches of the sled is left of the blade, while the much larger
portion is on the right side of the blade, where it will support most
of the panel with only a little hanging off. The only downside I can
see so far is that the unequal sliding friction might cause the runners
to tend to bind. Anybody see a big mistake coming? Or am I just
thinking about it too much? I googled, but didn't come up with an
answer.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle


The only thing I can think of off the top of my head - at least where my saw
is concerned - is that I would have to reach through the plane of the blade
to get to the switch if something happened. Can't just pop it with your knee
if you're on the right side - and with a sled that big, I would want both
hands on it at all times.

My made my panel sled to the right of the blade for the very
reasons you mentioned and it works just fine. I keep the bottom
and the (single) runner well waxed and have had no binding
problems.

Art

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to build a crosscut sled to handle panels at least 24 X 48. I'm
thinking of a sled about 48 wide X 30 deep, with 2 runners in the miter
slots. I have both rear and right side table extensions, so it will be
well-supported.

Here's the question: Is there any good reason not to offset the sled
to the right side of the blade? I'm thinking about having the left
side of the sled about even with the left miter slot. That way, only a
few inches of the sled is left of the blade, while the much larger
portion is on the right side of the blade, where it will support most
of the panel with only a little hanging off. The only downside I can
see so far is that the unequal sliding friction might cause the runners
to tend to bind. Anybody see a big mistake coming? Or am I just
thinking about it too much? I googled, but didn't come up with an
answer.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:20:26 -0800, DonkeyHody wrote:

Here's the question: Is there any good reason not to offset the sled to
the right side of the blade? I'm thinking about having the left side of
the sled about even with the left miter slot. That way, only a few inches
of the sled is left of the blade, while the much larger portion is on the
right side of the blade, where it will support most of the panel with only
a little hanging off.

You could get a problem with a long offcut dropping such that it might
contact the back of the blede. I've seen others build the sled offset as
you want to do, but they had a spare piece of the sled material to lay on
the left for long offcuts.

Larry Blanchard wrote:

You could get a problem with a long offcut dropping such that it might
contact the back of the blede. I've seen others build the sled offset as
you want to do, but they had a spare piece of the sled material to lay on
the left for long offcuts.

I dislike wrestling whole sheets of plywood on the tablesaw, so I'll
still probably rough cut with a circular saw and use the sled to trim
to final dimensions anyway. I can see where it could be a problem
though.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him. - Thomas
Carlyle

DonkeyHody wrote:
I want to build a crosscut sled to handle panels at least 24 X 48. I'm
thinking of a sled about 48 wide X 30 deep, with 2 runners in the miter
slots. I have both rear and right side table extensions, so it will be
well-supported.


Take a look at Fred Bingham's in his book, Practical Yacht Joinery.

Should make you a happy camper.

Lew

Thanks to all for your advice. Now it's off to the shop.

DonkeyHody

Thanks to all for your advice. Now it's off to the shop.

DonkeyHody


Up in January I am going to build a sled, 1/4" masonite bed/sole, 8/4 mahogany
fence and hard maple rails. But the fence will be tapered end-to-end to 88º instead
of 90º as it will be for dadoing in the dog holes for my bench top. At the shop
(adult ed.) we have a 16" Oliver 270-D tablesaw (1" arbour) and an old 10"
(over-an-inch) dado set of HCS (1" arbour hole) I think made by Delta Rockwell
of past. Very simple design.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/