We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.

No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.

I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.

Charlie Self wrote:

We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.

No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.

I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.

Portable radiant heaters only warm surfaces, so air temp and stock will
remain cold. Being tall, I don't do well with ceiling mounted RH, but YMMV.

Dave

Charlie Self wrote:
We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.

No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.

I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.


Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.

As the David mentions, radiant isn't likely to do the job you want
unless you're actually talking about convection heat units mounted (ala
electric baseboard heat).

Cleaning the baseboard units would be a pain, as would the wall space
that would be wasted.

OTOH, I do have the draft from the forced-air from the Dayton stirring
things up. Hopefully that will be a minor downside since I have now
have a dust collector AND air filtration system in the shop.

David said:

Charlie Self wrote:

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.

Portable radiant heaters only warm surfaces, so air temp and stock will
remain cold. Being tall, I don't do well with ceiling mounted RH, but YMMV.

Well, the radiant heat that warms surfaces will eventually radiate
into the air FROM those surfaces, but... I know what you're saying.

Heck, I'm still using a portable Kerosene heater - it'll roast your
butt off in a little while. But my DC is outside, and I DO NOT
paint/lacquer/varnish/clean brushes with MS inside the garage. It
worked pretty well for a few years, but now that kerosene is up to
$3.50 a gallon, I'm not so sure...

And it does smell when you shut it down.

(And for cripes sake, no threads on carbon monoxide poisoning,
ventilation, etc....)


Greg G.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.

No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.

I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.


The LV radiant heaters will not heat a shop, well maybe if you had 20 they
might, but basically they should be considered "personal heaters".

"Charlie Self" wrote in news:1131235988.211802.97380
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

....
I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?
....

I've used one for the last couple of years in my third bay shop here in
Colorado. It's good for local heat and comfort if you are working in a
small area (say doing joinery or marquetry at your workbench).

It doesn't put out enough heat to heat the shop area; over the period of
an hour or so it may shift the overall temp by a couple of degrees at most.

Mine was very inexpensive from the local home improvement store
(Sutherlands), and is the exact same brand and model that Lee Valley
carries for a few dollars more.

Nate Perkins wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in news:1131235988.211802.97380
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

...
I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?
...

I've used one for the last couple of years in my third bay shop here in
Colorado. It's good for local heat and comfort if you are working in a
small area (say doing joinery or marquetry at your workbench).

It doesn't put out enough heat to heat the shop area; over the period of
an hour or so it may shift the overall temp by a couple of degrees at most.

Mine was very inexpensive from the local home improvement store
(Sutherlands), and is the exact same brand and model that Lee Valley
carries for a few dollars more.

Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which is
a royal pain in the tail.

Thanks. This place is wonderful for arcane info about a whole lot of
semi-woodworking related things.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
We've been here before. Checked the wiring and turned my electric
furnace on and got a modest "hummmmmmmmmmm" for my efforts.

No big deal, I guess, as I had money in the circuit breaker and cable,
but not in the furnace. Which is why I don't wish to add any more cash
to that cow.

I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?

If it seems to, I'll stick one of those up in each corner of the shop
and get on with it. I'm not up for rerouting ducting for a furnace,
among other fun chores, so ceiling mount radiant heat might be the
answer.

Charlie,
I have 2 radiant heaters...
One is a two burner "MR. Heater" propane, the other is designed to be
mounted on a wall, has three ceramic elements that can be used like low,
medium and high. and also runs on propane. I made a rolling "stand" to mount
it, and carry two bottles with a self switching valve.
Placing one at each end of the area I'm working in does the job well.
The main disadvantage for me is the uninsulated metal roof will begin to
"rain" if they are left on for an extended period.
My building "leaks" enough air so carbon monoxide is not a threat, and I
avoid flammable sprays etc. if they are lit. A pic can be posted if you
desire.
Tom

Charlie Self said:

snipped

Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which is
a royal pain in the tail.

It shouldn't be that hard to DO, unless it's concealed, too high, etc.
But the leg work to find the motor...

What's wrong with it? Are the windings burnt, or (much more common)
are the bearings just stuck? Insert repair sequence here...

Thanks. This place is wonderful for arcane info about a whole lot of
semi-woodworking related things.

And like a nube, I told my tale of kerosene (and carbon monoxide), but
forgot about the new weather stripping and such I put on the
garage/shop this summer. Went to light it tonight and it struck me...

Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.

For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.

Ugghh...


Greg G.

In article .com,
says...

Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which is
a royal pain in the tail.

Charlie, I don't know what size your shop is, but a 1500 watt electric
heater warms my little shop from freezing to 60 in a couple of hours.
Then I turn it down to where it runs only occasionally to maintain the
heat. If the weather is really cold, I leave it run all night sitting
on the cast iron saw table for safety.

My shop is only 150 square feet, so you might need more than one, but
they're cheap. At least it would be an interim solution.

--
It's turtles, all the way down.

"Nate Perkins" wrote in message
. 125.201...
"Charlie Self" wrote in news:1131235988.211802.97380
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

...
I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall whether
or not it works well?
...

I've used one for the last couple of years in my third bay shop here in
Colorado. It's good for local heat and comfort if you are working in a
small area (say doing joinery or marquetry at your workbench).

It doesn't put out enough heat to heat the shop area; over the period of
an hour or so it may shift the overall temp by a couple of degrees at
most.

Mine was very inexpensive from the local home improvement store
(Sutherlands), and is the exact same brand and model that Lee Valley
carries for a few dollars more.


Snow's falling,
Shop's calling
Heat by wood
Is very good.

I love my basement.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...

Well Charlie, My comment is of no help at all but if you were in Houston you
could heat the shop in the winter by simply opening your outside door to let
the air in. ;~)

Greg G. (in ) said:

| Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.
|
| For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.

Does the garage have a south-facing wall?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

"Charlie Self" wrote in
oups.com:


Nate Perkins wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in
news:1131235988.211802.97380 @g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

...
I've been looking at the radiant heaters Lee Valley has: has anyone
here tried that radiant heat concept recently enough to recall
whether or not it works well?
...

I've used one for the last couple of years in my third bay shop here
in Colorado. It's good for local heat and comfort if you are working
in a small area (say doing joinery or marquetry at your workbench).

It doesn't put out enough heat to heat the shop area; over the
period of an hour or so it may shift the overall temp by a couple of
degrees at most.

Mine was very inexpensive from the local home improvement store
(Sutherlands), and is the exact same brand and model that Lee Valley
carries for a few dollars more.

Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which
is a royal pain in the tail.

I've been thinking of getting the HVAC company out to install a gas-
fired system for the garage, the kind with the flame stream separate
from the shop environment. But I think it's going to be kind of steep,
I guess around a grand or so.

Thanks. This place is wonderful for arcane info about a whole lot of
semi-woodworking related things.

Yeah, I've learned a lot here too. There are some guys here who really
know their stuff. Shucks, some even write articles that are published
;-)

Even the OT threads are amusing, but it's like spitting in the wind to
participate in them.

On Sat 05 Nov 2005 06:35:03p, Unquestionably Confused puzzled2
@ameritech.net wrote in news:Xccbf.5275$8W.4184
@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:

Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.

Glad to hear that. I'm in WI not far from Chicago, with a 20x20
uninsulated, unattached garashop that I'm planning to weatherize this
winter. I bought a Farenheat 240V which looks like it's pretty much the
same thing as the Dayton and got it installed yesterday. When the doors
were closed it did a really good job for that 45 degree rainy/windy day. It
went from damp and chilly to nice and comfortable in about twenty minutes.
Near as I can figure, that unit costs me about fifty cents an hour to run.

I know I won't be able to keep the shop above freezing all winter but at
least it'll be comfortable while I insulate, put up slatwall, cover the
rafters, and all that stuff I probably should have done this summer but
made sawdust instead. :-)

Dan wrote:

Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.


Glad to hear that. I'm in WI not far from Chicago, with a 20x20
uninsulated, unattached garashop that I'm planning to weatherize this
winter. I bought a Farenheat 240V which looks like it's pretty much the
same thing as the Dayton and got it installed yesterday. When the doors
were closed it did a really good job for that 45 degree rainy/windy day. It
went from damp and chilly to nice and comfortable in about twenty minutes.
Near as I can figure, that unit costs me about fifty cents an hour to run.

I know I won't be able to keep the shop above freezing all winter but at
least it'll be comfortable while I insulate, put up slatwall, cover the
rafters, and all that stuff I probably should have done this summer but
made sawdust instead. :-)

My shop is a dedicated 13x24 area in a detached 36x24 garage. Fully
insulated, thermopane windows in the shop area, etc. Concrete slab.

Installed the Dayton in February and set it to keep the shop between
50-55 degrees. If I'm going to work out there I go in when I get home
from the office and crank it. By the time I can change into work
clothes, I can work in shirtsleeves even if the temperature is below
freezing.

As for the cost? I used to use a Redi-heater and Kero-Sun heater when I
worked out there. Priced K-1 lately?g No smell, and I've not yet had
a heart attack looking at the electrical costs since we're total
electric out here anyway.

Greg G. wrote:
Charlie Self said:

snipped

Shoot. I guess I mess with a more costly form of heat. It might even
pay to see if I can replace the fan motor on this old furnace, which is
a royal pain in the tail.

It shouldn't be that hard to DO, unless it's concealed, too high, etc.
But the leg work to find the motor...

What's wrong with it? Are the windings burnt, or (much more common)
are the bearings just stuck? Insert repair sequence here...

Thanks. This place is wonderful for arcane info about a whole lot of
semi-woodworking related things.

And like a nube, I told my tale of kerosene (and carbon monoxide), but
forgot about the new weather stripping and such I put on the
garage/shop this summer. Went to light it tonight and it struck me...

Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.

For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.

Ugghh...

It may only be the capacitor. My knees are acting up, so I hate
climbing the pull-down to check the thing out again, but I guess
tomorrow evening, when it cools down, is a good time. I've got to drop
a jointer at a freight company tomorrow a.m. early, get that off my
back (3 to go!). There may be some fun with the capacitor, as the
furnace is at least 20 years old. Worked when I got it 5 years ago.
With the gear I have now, the best way to check the capacitor is to
get the numbers, buy a new one and try it. I did locate my small
multi-meter a couple days ago, right on the beam running down the
center of the attic, next to the furnace.

Anyway, what I get now is a humming noise, which tends to remind me of
a motor with a bad capacitor, but it's been a lot of years since I
fiddled with them, so what do I know. No motor shop here, but maybe one
in Roanoke or L'burg. I do have a nearly new motor out of an old oil
furnace. Wonder if that will fit?

Charlie Self wrote:

It may only be the capacitor. My knees are acting up, so I hate
climbing the pull-down to check the thing out again, but I guess
tomorrow evening, when it cools down, is a good time. I've got to drop
a jointer at a freight company tomorrow a.m. early, get that off my
back (3 to go!). There may be some fun with the capacitor, as the
furnace is at least 20 years old. Worked when I got it 5 years ago.
With the gear I have now, the best way to check the capacitor is to
get the numbers, buy a new one and try it. I did locate my small
multi-meter a couple days ago, right on the beam running down the
center of the attic, next to the furnace.

Damn, Charlie, you ARE THE MAN! A dedicated multi-meter, just for your
furnace! Wow!g


Anyway, what I get now is a humming noise, which tends to remind me of
a motor with a bad capacitor, but it's been a lot of years since I
fiddled with them, so what do I know. No motor shop here, but maybe one
in Roanoke or L'burg. I do have a nearly new motor out of an old oil
furnace. Wonder if that will fit?

Possible that the problem is the centrifugal starting switch. I have an
intermittent problem with one on a heavy-duty paper shredder at the
office. In my case, I was able to rule out the capacitor (after using
your method, of courseg) by turning the motor by hand a half turn and
then applying power to it. It turned right over. Give your squirrel
cage or fan a spin and then apply power and see what happens.

A shot of electrical contact cleaner and/or blast of compressed air
aimed at the switch may be all you need. If that gets it going again
fine. If it only works to be a temporary cure at least you know you're
not looking at a great expense. A motor repair shop should be able to
take care of relatively cheaply. Of course you still get to work on it
up in that attic. Sucks to be youg

Good Luck.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
oups.com...
It may only be the capacitor. My knees are acting up, so I hate
climbing the pull-down to check the thing out again, but I guess
tomorrow evening, when it cools down, is a good time. I've got to drop
a jointer at a freight company tomorrow a.m. early, get that off my
back (3 to go!). There may be some fun with the capacitor, as the
furnace is at least 20 years old. Worked when I got it 5 years ago.
With the gear I have now, the best way to check the capacitor is to
get the numbers, buy a new one and try it. I did locate my small
multi-meter a couple days ago, right on the beam running down the
center of the attic, next to the furnace.

Most fan motors don't use capacitors, but they do need oiling, at least the
20+ year old types.

Morris Dovey said:

Greg G. (in ) said:

| Now _I've_ got to find an alternate form of heat.
|
| For a garage. With a non-insulted floor. And two wood garage doors.

Does the garage have a south-facing wall?

WAY ahead of you - but no.

My fun-time reading in 1980 consisted of:
Under Ground, Earth Bermed, and Solar Efficient Homes
by some dorks at MIT. I was preparing for this even then...
The book was subsequently burned - and no, not by a solar heating
experiment gone awry - I believe it was a conspiracy by the oil
plutocracy, but that's another story...

It must have been a successful conspiracy, however, because I now find
myself chained to a fuel-screw home.


Greg G.

That squirrel cage and fan mtr should just slide out of the furnace. And
a new mtr should be available from granger . If not then a motor shop.
Cheaper than a new furnace. Also check some of the HVAC mechanics and
see if anyone is replacing a furnace . Maybe be able to buy it. But a
new 10 kw furnace might cost 5-6 hundred. Find a mechanic going into one
of the supply houses and offer him $50 if he will buy one from th supply
house for you. Not all will do it but just like fishing
you put the right bait out there you will get a bite. Course you need
cash for him to buy it. Give it a shot. How much the equipment in the
shop worth? $10 G s?
Need to protect it.

You did not say if the heaters came on or not. Just that the fan no
start. A lot of times there is a sail switch in the duct work for
safety. If this switch does not move and close the heaters cannot come
on. Motor start is one thing but how about the heater elements. Also
there may be an overload switch near the heaters. If it gets to hot the
heaters will shut down. It is about the size of a half dollar. ( Banks
might still have a couple on hand if you need a reminder. ) As for the
capacitor try starting the furnace, then shut off the breaker or
disconnect. Then remove the wires from the capacitor , if there is a
resistor between the terminals cut the thing off. then short across the
terminals with a screwdriver,.make sure it is insulated drive not one
with an old broken wooden handle . If it snaps the cap is good . The
resistor was only there to bleed off the cap when power was off so don't
really have to worry about replacing. Run capacitors are oval with low
micro-fared ( 5=15 mfd at maybe 300volts). Start caps are round and
high like 80 or so. Also check the relay that pulls in the power to the
motor. Lot of mfg had a lot of different ways for safety. so follow the
wiring if you can. After you get your hands out of the furnace THEN go
turn the breaker on.

On Sun, 6 Nov 2005 04:49:20 -0800, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

Charlie, I don't know what size your shop is, but a 1500 watt electric
heater warms my little shop from freezing to 60 in a couple of hours.
Then I turn it down to where it runs only occasionally to maintain the
heat. If the weather is really cold, I leave it run all night sitting
on the cast iron saw table for safety.

My shop is only 150 square feet, so you might need more than one, but
they're cheap. At least it would be an interim solution.

Mine's about 120 sq ft ...less until I get rid of the scrap wood. I
use a 220v barn heater if doing a short term job, but cank up the wood
stove if longer. I have a 120v baseboard heater chugging along on
bottom low all year to stop getting too hot/cold causing rust problems
[on the saw, not me], but not warm enough to work in. The shop is
well insulated. It has to be at 40 below. But with the stove on I
can live there, and have the boys in for some tall tales about what
we're gonna build.

George said:

snip

Snow's falling,
Shop's calling
Heat by wood
Is very good.

I love my basement.

As well you should.. ;-)

Used to live in an older home - wood was the sole source of heat.
Didn't die - didn't pay a lot of money for fuel, either.
My turnings gone awry and scrap should be worth a _few_ BTU's.


Greg G.

Leon said:


"Charlie Self" wrote in message
oups.com...

Well Charlie, My comment is of no help at all but if you were in Houston you
could heat the shop in the winter by simply opening your outside door to let
the air in. ;~)

Yea, but how do you keep the floodwaters and crickets out of the shop?


Greg G.

Greg G. wrote:
George said:

snip

Snow's falling,
Shop's calling
Heat by wood
Is very good.

I love my basement.

As well you should.. ;-)

Used to live in an older home - wood was the sole source of heat.
Didn't die - didn't pay a lot of money for fuel, either.
My turnings gone awry and scrap should be worth a _few_ BTU's.


From about 1974 through 1986 I lived with mostly wood heat. I think I
had something else for about a year in there, so the total was 11
winters. If it is all you have, it modifies your schedule--can't stay
gone more than 24 hours in NY winters without someone coming in to feed
the fire and haul ashes, etc. I had reached the stage where I bought
wood by the truckload--logging truck--to keep from having to chase it
down. A chainsaw, some splitting wedges and a couple mauls (at least a
couple as I have a real handle busting talent) and $150 would cover a
very warm winter.

And then there was the winter when the guy showed up with about a dozen
11-12" diameter sycamore logs. Green wasn't in it.

Shivered a lot with stuff. It's much better for woodworking.

Dan wrote:
On Sat 05 Nov 2005 06:35:03p, Unquestionably Confused puzzled2
@ameritech.net wrote in news:Xccbf.5275$8W.4184
@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:


Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.


Glad to hear that. I'm in WI not far from Chicago, with a 20x20
uninsulated, unattached garashop that I'm planning to weatherize this
winter. I bought a Farenheat 240V which looks like it's pretty much the
same thing as the Dayton and got it installed yesterday. When the doors
were closed it did a really good job for that 45 degree rainy/windy day. It
went from damp and chilly to nice and comfortable in about twenty minutes.
Near as I can figure, that unit costs me about fifty cents an hour to run.

The orange borg is running what now appears to be an annual insulation
special. Buy $250 worth of insulation, get a $75 gift card. Time to insulate!

-John in bloody cold NH

Nate Perkins writes:

I've been thinking of getting the HVAC company out to install a gas-
fired system for the garage, the kind with the flame stream separate
from the shop environment. But I think it's going to be kind of steep,
I guess around a grand or so.

I doubt you'll get a condensing furnace installed for $1000. Labor is a
good chunk of the cost. Does your shop even have propane or natural gas
piped to it?

Brian Elfert

hello,

BTW, in some states like Idaho, you get tax breaks for insulating previously
uninsolated structures...

cyrille


"John Girouard" wrote in message
...
Dan wrote:
On Sat 05 Nov 2005 06:35:03p, Unquestionably Confused puzzled2
@ameritech.net wrote in news:Xccbf.5275$8W.4184
@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:


Found that this electric heater: Dayton G73 (actually manufactured by
Marley Products as their UH5xx series) works quite well. Have a 30amp
circuit available? This is plenty for a 13'x24' well-insulated shop in
the Chicago area.


Glad to hear that. I'm in WI not far from Chicago, with a 20x20
uninsulated, unattached garashop that I'm planning to weatherize this
winter. I bought a Farenheat 240V which looks like it's pretty much the
same thing as the Dayton and got it installed yesterday. When the doors
were closed it did a really good job for that 45 degree rainy/windy day.
It went from damp and chilly to nice and comfortable in about twenty
minutes. Near as I can figure, that unit costs me about fifty cents an
hour to run.

The orange borg is running what now appears to be an annual insulation
special. Buy $250 worth of insulation, get a $75 gift card. Time to
insulate!

-John in bloody cold NH

On Mon 07 Nov 2005 02:27:24p, "Cyrille de Brébisson"
wrote in :

BTW, in some states like Idaho, you get tax breaks for insulating
previously uninsolated structures...

Heh. In certain parts of mine, you have to buy a permit, submit a rather
complicated form documenting its thermal retention properties, use an
approved heat source, and go through two inspections.