These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
± US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
± US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)

Ingenious, but would not work well on my contractor Jet because the
motor hangs out back there. I made my "assembly table" the same
height as my saw and it is on locking casters so it can be rolled over
next to the saw when needed. Usually it is covered in junk, though.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

I'm not easy, but I can be tricked.

I sometimes just hate my shop. It is mostly put away during no use times.
I am a General Contractor and for the most part work right out of my darn
truck.
When I work in the garage, I have to "roll" things out, set up horses, and
outfeeds.
It is a pain for the most part and then the clean-up comes after the
work.......
Vacuuming, sweeping, etc.
I love portability and your outfeed table is one of those quick and easy
ways to go.
john

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at
± US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on
different saws.

Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get
a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one
ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai.../OutfeedTable#

You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you
started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.

Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add
aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.

Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably
keep it and spiff it up a bit.

(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/12/2011 8:12 AM, jloomis wrote:
I sometimes just hate my shop. It is mostly put away during no use times.
I am a General Contractor and for the most part work right out of my
darn truck.
When I work in the garage, I have to "roll" things out, set up horses,
and outfeeds.
It is a pain for the most part and then the clean-up comes after the
work.......
Vacuuming, sweeping, etc.
I love portability and your outfeed table is one of those quick and easy
ways to go.

Feel the pain, and the pinch ... and ditto on the GC part.

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...ODv4OKAraChgQE

But I do most of the kitchens that go into new construction (or
remodels, these days), which means I need to maintain a shop.

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...aJgYOq gKvOVw

Problem is, I just moved it back into the 1940's building behind my
home, which is about 1/3rd smaller than where its been the last three
years, but with more equipment and "stuff" than ever before.

I'm trying like hell to get used to a smaller shop again, but here I am
back tripping over everything, even though I've spent a good deal of
time trying to organize for the smaller space:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...opRetrofit2011

Sometimes you just can't win ... then again, things could always be
worse ... I'm still breathing, and with work to do.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I enjoyed the pictures of your shop and all the cabinet space.
You have certainly put "a ship in a bottle" with that kind of utilizing
space idea.
I like it. It is so clean too! Very impressive.
On your joinery do you dado out for the partitions or just screw and glue or
nail and glue?
just curious. I always dado out a slot for the horizontal piece of ply to
fit into the vertical and not sure if that
is always necessary.
john

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 7/12/2011 8:12 AM, jloomis wrote:
I sometimes just hate my shop. It is mostly put away during no use times.
I am a General Contractor and for the most part work right out of my
darn truck.
When I work in the garage, I have to "roll" things out, set up horses,
and outfeeds.
It is a pain for the most part and then the clean-up comes after the
work.......
Vacuuming, sweeping, etc.
I love portability and your outfeed table is one of those quick and easy
ways to go.

Feel the pain, and the pinch ... and ditto on the GC part.

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...ODv4OKAraChgQE

But I do most of the kitchens that go into new construction (or
remodels, these days), which means I need to maintain a shop.

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...aJgYOq gKvOVw

Problem is, I just moved it back into the 1940's building behind my
home, which is about 1/3rd smaller than where its been the last three
years, but with more equipment and "stuff" than ever before.

I'm trying like hell to get used to a smaller shop again, but here I am
back tripping over everything, even though I've spent a good deal of
time trying to organize for the smaller space:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...opRetrofit2011

Sometimes you just can't win ... then again, things could always be
worse ... I'm still breathing, and with work to do.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/13/2011 8:33 AM, jloomis wrote:

On your joinery do you dado out for the partitions or just screw and
glue or nail and glue?
just curious. I always dado out a slot for the horizontal piece of ply
to fit into the vertical and not sure if that
is always necessary.

99.9% of the time, yes I do dado "partitions", but not necessarily
"drawer dividers".

The end panels and "floors"* of my cabinets are always dadoed, glued,
and usually nailed, regardless of whether face frame, or euro cabinet
.... although a lot of euro cabinet builders don't consider it necessary.

That .1%, and generally when eating my own dogfood, I may use a butt
joint with biscuits, glue and nails ... but these are strictly down and
dirty for my use only and not something I would spec into a kitchen or
cabinet job.

All "partitions' that are full depth, are always dadoed into the end
panels, thusly:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...13547288776354

(partitions done that way make for hell-for-stout boxes!)

With horizontal "drawer dividers" on euro base cabinets, I generally do
not dado them into the end panels ... too many times a customer changes
their minds on drawer heights, so, IME, it is not wise to "cast them in
stone" with a dado.

That said, on a really tall euro cabinet, I will generally pick out one
"drawer divider" mid way up and make it into a full depth "partition"
for stability (a tall cabinet will rack, particularly if it is a
standalone, if this is not done, IME).

Of course, with a face frame cabinet, there is generally a drawer rail
involved so it's moot point, except with maybe a microwave cabinet with
a drawer under it, then the "partition" (or floor) is always dadoed into
both the end panels and back of the face frame rail.

*(in production cabinetmaking parlance, a "floor" is generally used as a
catchall designation for the "floor", the "top", and any horizontal
"partitions", because they are generally the same dimensions. IOW, the
cutlist for a microwave cabinet with a drawer below the microwave would
show a quantity of three "floors").

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I really enjoyed the tour through the shop and into the kitchen.
What a nice job, and well thought out.
I am sure there were many headscratchings too.
Thanks for the view, you do real careful work.

I would like to work with a person with the knowledge like that to get some
tips of the trade.
I do a lot of cabinet making and design, but lack the kind of experience
show in your photos.
john

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 7/13/2011 8:33 AM, jloomis wrote:

On your joinery do you dado out for the partitions or just screw and
glue or nail and glue?
just curious. I always dado out a slot for the horizontal piece of ply
to fit into the vertical and not sure if that
is always necessary.

99.9% of the time, yes I do dado "partitions", but not necessarily
"drawer dividers".

The end panels and "floors"* of my cabinets are always dadoed, glued,
and usually nailed, regardless of whether face frame, or euro cabinet
.... although a lot of euro cabinet builders don't consider it necessary.

That .1%, and generally when eating my own dogfood, I may use a butt
joint with biscuits, glue and nails ... but these are strictly down and
dirty for my use only and not something I would spec into a kitchen or
cabinet job.

All "partitions' that are full depth, are always dadoed into the end
panels, thusly:

https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcai...13547288776354

(partitions done that way make for hell-for-stout boxes!)

With horizontal "drawer dividers" on euro base cabinets, I generally do
not dado them into the end panels ... too many times a customer changes
their minds on drawer heights, so, IME, it is not wise to "cast them in
stone" with a dado.

That said, on a really tall euro cabinet, I will generally pick out one
"drawer divider" mid way up and make it into a full depth "partition"
for stability (a tall cabinet will rack, particularly if it is a
standalone, if this is not done, IME).

Of course, with a face frame cabinet, there is generally a drawer rail
involved so it's moot point, except with maybe a microwave cabinet with
a drawer under it, then the "partition" (or floor) is always dadoed into
both the end panels and back of the face frame rail.

*(in production cabinetmaking parlance, a "floor" is generally used as a
catchall designation for the "floor", the "top", and any horizontal
"partitions", because they are generally the same dimensions. IOW, the
cutlist for a microwave cabinet with a drawer below the microwave would
show a quantity of three "floors").

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)