G E N I O U S ! ! ! :~)

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:14:33 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:
G E N I O U S ! ! ! :~)

Much as I'd like to take credit for it, it's not my design. But, I did
have enough smarts to realize how good it was and grab it right away.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:14:33 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:
G E N I O U S ! ! ! :~)

Much as I'd like to take credit for it, it's not my design. But, I did
have enough smarts to realize how good it was and grab it right away.



If you would like I can provide you the actual plans although they do not
show my printing on the jig as the prototype does. IIRC the printing notes
to not letting the router rotate, you needed the handles to remain clocked
the same. That was because my original design called for use of a step on
the inner rails that would accommodate a router bushing as the guide. I
later trimmed the step off and went with a top bearing bit to ride directly
against the guide rails. That worked perfectly regardless of which way the
handles pointed. Then I posted it.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:39:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message
If you would like I can provide you the actual plans although they do not
show my printing on the jig as the prototype does.

I should be ok without the plans. If I have any difficulty
constructing it, I'll email you.

As I see it, the most important factor to the jig is to have the
vertical and lateral sections fastened together exactly at 90?. The
rest should be simple. The only other decision would be how big a
board width capability it needs. I figure a maximum dado length of 24"
should be sufficient.

wrote in message
news
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:39:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message
If you would like I can provide you the actual plans although they do not
show my printing on the jig as the prototype does.

I should be ok without the plans. If I have any difficulty
constructing it, I'll email you.

As I see it, the most important factor to the jig is to have the
vertical and lateral sections fastened together exactly at 90?.

Precicely

The
rest should be simple. The only other decision would be how big a
board width capability it needs. I figure a maximum dado length of 24"
should be sufficient.

I was going to make a shorter one abou the length you have in mind and a
longer one, 48" But later ended up buying a dado set as I seldom just make
a few dados at one time. My jig is great and faster for a few quick and
accurate dados.

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 08:59:53 -0600, "Leon"
But later ended up buying a dado set as I seldom just make
a few dados at one time.

What dado set did you buy?

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 08:59:53 -0600, "Leon"
But later ended up buying a dado set as I seldom just make
a few dados at one time.

What dado set did you buy?

Forrest Dado King. Expensive but with a 25% off coupon at Rockler it was
reasonably priced. Would I buy it again?

LOL.... Hard to say..... 4 months ago I would have said no. I would have
purchased the Freud set that Swingman has now. It requires no shims for
repeatable settings.

Today I might buy the Dado King again... I now own the BCT Kerf Maker. I am
hoping that I will only have be able to get relatively close give or take
1/8-1/4" and simply make two passes, for the short runs.


BUT for kitchen production runs that Swingman and I get involved in his set
will be the one to go with IMHO.

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 15:56:16 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

purchased the Freud set that Swingman has now. It requires no shims for
repeatable settings.

Yes, I remember you telling me about the no shims Freud set. I was
wondering how clean it cuts? For example, does it leave any
unacceptable splintering or tear out on dado edges or ends? In most
cases some tear out wouldn't bother me, such as when I was cutting
dados in the cedar outdoor furniture I build the past two summers.

However, if I was dadoing some cabinet grade hardwood veneered
plywood, and there was some splintering, I'd be more concerned.

On 1/17/2010 4:11 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 15:56:16 -0600,
wrote:

purchased the Freud set that Swingman has now. It requires no shims for
repeatable settings.

Yes, I remember you telling me about the no shims Freud set. I was
wondering how clean it cuts? For example, does it leave any
unacceptable splintering or tear out on dado edges or ends? In most
cases some tear out wouldn't bother me, such as when I was cutting
dados in the cedar outdoor furniture I build the past two summers.

However, if I was dadoing some cabinet grade hardwood veneered
plywood, and there was some splintering, I'd be more concerned.

Hardwood ply and hardwood stock is all we use it on ... NO tear out at
all, flat bottom cuts ... don't have time to be dealing with tear out,
so wouldn't own one if it did.

This includes a load of fairly brittle hardwood veneered plywood we got
a couple of years back that would splinter if you drug it across the
shop bench ... nothing but sharp, precise edges in the dadoes even then.

The blades haven't needed sharpening in four kitchens worth of cabinets.
Basically, will never own another dado stack that requires shims if I
can help it.

The ONLY criticism I've ever seen is from folks whose saws are not
capable of using the full width of the stack due to the short arbors on
their saw ... why anyone would criticize the product due a limitation of
their tools is symptomatic of today's culture.

Can almost guarantee that would be the only caveat, depending upon your
table saw.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 17:17:43 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Can almost guarantee that would be the only caveat, depending upon your
table saw.

Thanks Karl

On 1/17/2010 5:17 PM, Swingman wrote:

This includes a load of fairly brittle hardwood veneered plywood we got
a couple of years back that would splinter if you drug it across the
shop bench ... nothing but sharp, precise edges in the dadoes even then.

Was at the shop so grabbed a scrap piece of some of that very same
brittle, A-1, Rift Red Oak, with 1/4" x 3/4" rabbets in opposite sides.

If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, Swingman wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

On 1/17/2010 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

Nope, but hey ... if you can fix tear out with a quick swipe of a
sanding block like that, I'll take it any day!

Actually, these were test cuts for both depth and width in a piece of
scrap that I'd saved as "setup blocks" so I could repeat a sacrificial
fence setting on another project.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:34:21 -0600, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 1/17/2010 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

Nope, but hey ... if you can fix tear out with a quick swipe of a
sanding block like that, I'll take it any day!

Actually, these were test cuts for both depth and width in a piece of
scrap that I'd saved as "setup blocks" so I could repeat a sacrificial
fence setting on another project.

Do you score the cuts before dadoing?

--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln

On 1/17/2010 11:08 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:34:21 -0600, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 1/17/2010 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

Nope, but hey ... if you can fix tear out with a quick swipe of a
sanding block like that, I'll take it any day!

Actually, these were test cuts for both depth and width in a piece of
scrap that I'd saved as "setup blocks" so I could repeat a sacrificial
fence setting on another project.

Do you score the cuts before dadoing?

Have never needed to ... buy only quality blades, designed for the
specific task, so that I don't have waste time doing things like that.
My other dado stack is an older Amana set, with shims, that was top of
the line when purchased years ago.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:34:21 -0600, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 1/17/2010 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

Nope, but hey ... if you can fix tear out with a quick swipe of a
sanding block like that, I'll take it any day!

Actually, these were test cuts for both depth and width in a piece of
scrap that I'd saved as "setup blocks" so I could repeat a sacrificial
fence setting on another project.

Do you score the cuts before dadoing?

Nope, we make the cuts first and then score after the cut. BUT ! We
mostly give them a score of 100. ;~)

On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 08:15:41 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:34:21 -0600, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 1/17/2010 6:27 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 18:07:30 -0600, wrote:
If a dado stack was going to splinter, it would have done it with this
stuff .. stack was 4 years old when this was cut and had never been
sharpened.

That's pretty good. You sure you didn't sneak in a quick swipe with a
sanding block?

Nope, but hey ... if you can fix tear out with a quick swipe of a
sanding block like that, I'll take it any day!

Actually, these were test cuts for both depth and width in a piece of
scrap that I'd saved as "setup blocks" so I could repeat a sacrificial
fence setting on another project.

Do you score the cuts before dadoing?

Nope, we make the cuts first and then score after the cut. BUT ! We
mostly give them a score of 100. ;~)

GROAN Bad Leon. Bad, bad Leon.

--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln