I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in the
shop, and built it into my table saw. I already had the Rousseau insert so
building the table extension-extension took about an afternoon. Underbase
is 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood with a Oak frame and hardboard top. Two bolts
through each of the saw fence rails and the RH cast extension.

I took a little more time with the fence with the thought of moving it to a
'proper' router table at some point. Again the frame structure is Baltic
Birch ply with MDF face pieces. I set it up so it could be clamped to the
table saw fence; or rotated and clamped to the outboard end of the table.
The second arrangement allows me to use an extension on the table saw miter
gage (or a sled), if needed. The fence can then be drilled or slotted to
install to the 'proper' table.

With the exception of the insert, dust collection fitting and a few pieces
of hardware most of the materials came from stuff laying around the shop. I
was surprised at the effectiveness of the shop vacuum dust collection.
After running a few test pieces I had minimal waste that got through to the
floor and very little on the table top.

RonB

"RonB" wrote in message

I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in the
shop, and built it into my table saw.

I like!!

I still toy with the idea of putting my 7518 in my table saw extension, a la
David J. Marks, and getting rid of my router table entirely but, and being
the careful, precise, meticulous, plan-ahead, think it though, check all
options, gather all data, double check, no tern unstoned, procrastinator
that I am, I've never fully explored the cons.

Looks like you've found a good solution for your space issue ... I'm still
cogitating.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

I made router fence for my TS extension from a CD I purchased from
WooodWorkingathome.com . Issue number 8 for $8.95. It was kind of similar
to yours, but much more versatile. It has a vacuum port and also enables me
to adjust the back outfeed for jointing. Check it out I built it and like it
a lot.

I have a stand alone router table at the moment and was seriously
considering doing away with it and mounting the router in a tablesaw wing.
This would save space, I thought. In the mean time, the most convenient
place to put the router table was behind the tablesaw. First time I used the
saw, my plans for putig the router in the saw were scraped. Putting it
behind the tablesaw created an outfeed table. Never had an outfeed table
before. Now, I wouldn't be without one. Thinking of making the router table
bigger and on wheels.
"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"RonB" wrote in message

I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in
the
shop, and built it into my table saw.

I like!!

I still toy with the idea of putting my 7518 in my table saw extension, a
la
David J. Marks, and getting rid of my router table entirely but, and being
the careful, precise, meticulous, plan-ahead, think it though, check all
options, gather all data, double check, no tern unstoned, procrastinator
that I am, I've never fully explored the cons.

Looks like you've found a good solution for your space issue ... I'm still
cogitating.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:28:17 GMT, "CW" wrote:

I have a stand alone router table at the moment and was seriously
considering doing away with it and mounting the router in a tablesaw wing.

An alternate view...

I have a stand alone table, but I use it and it's DC connection for my
planer when dimensioning stock. The planer sits right on top of the
table.

I had the router in the wing, but it got in the way. For instance,
sometimes, I'll rout an edge for molding, then rip it off the wider
stock on the TS. I've never needed the planer and router table at
the same time.

FWIW, I still keep a router surface for site use that clamps to a
workmate, so you can never have too many router tables. G

"B a r r y" wrote in message

I had the router in the wing, but it got in the way. For instance,
sometimes, I'll rout an edge for molding, then rip it off the wider
stock on the TS. I've never needed the planer and router table at
the same time.

You see? ... already a "con" I hadn't thought of.

But I suppose that would make a good argument for a second table saw?

On second thought, it would have to be a third table saw ... the 2nd would
be reserved for a dado stack, according the last day dream.

Oh well ... better think this through a bit more.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

Swingman wrote:
"B a r r y" wrote in message

I had the router in the wing, but it got in the way. For instance,
sometimes, I'll rout an edge for molding, then rip it off the wider
stock on the TS. I've never needed the planer and router table at
the same time.

You see? ... already a "con" I hadn't thought of.

But I suppose that would make a good argument for a second table saw?

On second thought, it would have to be a third table saw ... the 2nd would
be reserved for a dado stack, according the last day dream.

Oh well ... better think this through a bit more.

I don't have any pressing need to integrate my router table and table
saw because I have enough space and I built my own router table which
has practically every bell and whistle a person could ask for. But I
did toy with the idea at one time, and I too have thought about the
downside of getting the router all set up, then having it be in the way
when I needed to use the table saw for something else. However, I think
this inconvenience could be alleviated (to a degree) by simply popping
the router (plate and all) out of the table, temporarily, and replacing
the hole with a dummy plate (or not), hopefully without affecting the
height adjustment of the bit. Assuming your table saw fence does not
also act as the fence for your router, I could also envision some kind
of quick release router fence with a "memory" that could be removed and
reinstalled without affecting its positioning (that you so carefully set
before you realized you needed to crosscut that piece of plywood!)...

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.

"Swingman" revealed to us

I still toy with the idea of putting my 7518 in my table saw extension, a
la
David J. Marks, and getting rid of my router table entirely but, and being
the careful, precise, meticulous, plan-ahead, think it though, check all
options, gather all data, double check, no tern unstoned, procrastinator
that I am, I've never fully explored the cons.

I too, am the careful, think out all the possibilities, obsessive planner
type. But the wife prefers to think of me as a lazy ass.

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Swingman" revealed to us
I still toy with the idea of putting my 7518 in my table saw extension, a
la
David J. Marks, and getting rid of my router table entirely but, and being
the careful, precise, meticulous, plan-ahead, think it though, check all
options, gather all data, double check, no tern unstoned, procrastinator
that I am, I've never fully explored the cons.

I too, am the careful, think out all the possibilities, obsessive planner
type. But the wife prefers to think of me as a lazy ass.

But surely you've explained to her that all that planning and obsessing
is better having to watch a grown man cry after a carelessly misplaced
cut has converted that prized piece of lumber into expensive firewood?

It could be worse - you could be like me, where I'll do all the careful
planning and obsessing and yet I'll STILL cut the damn board too short.
That, of course, gives my wife the opportunity to adorn me with the
more coveted title of "dumb ass". :-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.

Ron,

Did you take the pictures before you used it? (I can't see a router bit hole
in the fence yet) . It looks too new yet, but very nice.

I made a similar fence for the router in my saw table, but I split the face
layer of the fence (below the T track) and made insert pieces to fit in it
so that I could make zero clearance inserts for each bit style, and this has
worked out real well for me. I cut rabbets in the two ends of the facing
(back side) and did the same with the insert (front side) so the joints are
half laps. The insert is held in place by the rabbets on the 2 halves of the
fence facing when their mounting bolts are tightened. I slotted the bolt
holes in the rear fence so these face pieces can slide apart to take the
insert and be tightened in any position.

--
Charley

"RonB" wrote in message
...
I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in the
shop, and built it into my table saw. I already had the Rousseau insert
so
building the table extension-extension took about an afternoon. Underbase
is 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood with a Oak frame and hardboard top. Two
bolts
through each of the saw fence rails and the RH cast extension.

I took a little more time with the fence with the thought of moving it to
a
'proper' router table at some point. Again the frame structure is Baltic
Birch ply with MDF face pieces. I set it up so it could be clamped to the
table saw fence; or rotated and clamped to the outboard end of the table.
The second arrangement allows me to use an extension on the table saw
miter
gage (or a sled), if needed. The fence can then be drilled or slotted to
install to the 'proper' table.

With the exception of the insert, dust collection fitting and a few pieces
of hardware most of the materials came from stuff laying around the shop.
I
was surprised at the effectiveness of the shop vacuum dust collection.
After running a few test pieces I had minimal waste that got through to
the
floor and very little on the table top.

RonB

Charley and Will:

I could have posted better pics. These should address you comments a little
better.

The fence does have a dust port sized to my shop vac hose and it works well.
During some scrap tests it removed pretty much all of the waste from the
table top but a little made it through the bottom to the floor.

The lower 1/2 of the fence (lower 3") is made up of sliding panels that open
to accommodate the bit size. The outfeed side can be shimmed with a piece
of thin laminate to allow joining - or I will make a separate sliding panel,
with laminate applied, to facilitate joining. The way it usually works is
I'll rig the joining panel when the need arises. First I am going to finish
some slotted feather boards and stops to work in the T-Slot.

Thanks for comments
RonB

"RonB" wrote in message
...
Charley and Will:

I could have posted better pics. These should address you comments a
little better.

The fence does have a dust port sized to my shop vac hose and it works
well. During some scrap tests it removed pretty much all of the waste from
the table top but a little made it through the bottom to the floor.


That answered my question about the dust collection. My setup on the fence
is similar and works well. When making a groove, though, all the dust goes
into the cabinet.

Overall, it looks nice and should work well for you. Good job! Enjoy it.

One con might be if you are tall you will be constantly bending over. My
router table sets a few inches over my table saw height and to me that is a
real back saver. I'm 6'3".

Tim

"RonB" wrote in message
...
I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in the
shop, and built it into my table saw. I already had the Rousseau insert so
building the table extension-extension took about an afternoon. Underbase
is 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood with a Oak frame and hardboard top. Two bolts
through each of the saw fence rails and the RH cast extension.

I took a little more time with the fence with the thought of moving it to
a 'proper' router table at some point. Again the frame structure is
Baltic Birch ply with MDF face pieces. I set it up so it could be clamped
to the table saw fence; or rotated and clamped to the outboard end of the
table. The second arrangement allows me to use an extension on the table
saw miter gage (or a sled), if needed. The fence can then be drilled or
slotted to install to the 'proper' table.

With the exception of the insert, dust collection fitting and a few pieces
of hardware most of the materials came from stuff laying around the shop.
I was surprised at the effectiveness of the shop vacuum dust collection.
After running a few test pieces I had minimal waste that got through to
the floor and very little on the table top.

RonB

Yes, that crossed my mind too. In fact, in reading up on router table and
fence designs, height was an important issue. I'll have to live with it on
this version but hopefully the 'proper' table will be a few inches higher.

Thankfully, at 5' 10" I'm fairly close to the ground.

RonB


"tdup2" wrote in message
...
One con might be if you are tall you will be constantly bending over. My
router table sets a few inches over my table saw height and to me that is
a real back saver. I'm 6'3".

Tim

"RonB" wrote in message
...
I finally gave up on finding a place for a full-sized router table in the
shop, and built it into my table saw. I already had the Rousseau insert
so building the table extension-extension took about an afternoon.
Underbase is 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood with a Oak frame and hardboard top.
Two bolts through each of the saw fence rails and the RH cast extension.

I took a little more time with the fence with the thought of moving it to
a 'proper' router table at some point. Again the frame structure is
Baltic Birch ply with MDF face pieces. I set it up so it could be
clamped to the table saw fence; or rotated and clamped to the outboard
end of the table. The second arrangement allows me to use an extension on
the table saw miter gage (or a sled), if needed. The fence can then be
drilled or slotted to install to the 'proper' table.

With the exception of the insert, dust collection fitting and a few
pieces of hardware most of the materials came from stuff laying around
the shop. I was surprised at the effectiveness of the shop vacuum dust
collection. After running a few test pieces I had minimal waste that got
through to the floor and very little on the table top.

RonB