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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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I got my hands on a good size piece of rough sawn cedar. Someone in the
woodworking group I belong to, (I am fairly new to it) said that cedar is hard to finish. This stuff was just sawn in the last 3-4 weeks. I believe it is still green. I would like to make some pens out of it and a box for now. How would I finish this stuff both for pens and other projects as well? -- Stephen DiCenso |
#2
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Stephen DiCenso wrote:
I got my hands on a good size piece of rough sawn cedar. Someone in the woodworking group I belong to, (I am fairly new to it) said that cedar is hard to finish. This stuff was just sawn in the last 3-4 weeks. I believe it is still green. I would like to make some pens out of it and a box for now. How would I finish this stuff both for pens and other projects as well? It is really hard to beat shellac. If the piece is green, turn it fairly thin and soak it with shellac, starting on the inside and applying with a clean cloth soaked in shellac. Keep applying until, letting the friction generate the heat to dry it quickly, you get the sheen you want and then finish the outside. I usually finish it off with a good scrub with "0000" steelwool and Briwax, then a couple more coats of Briwax buffed to a shine. That is for the bowl. For the pens, the usual finishing wax or whatever will do nicely. Being smaller, the chance of them splitting is greatly reduced. Hope this helps. BTW, it being green, do not be surprised if it splits on you as it fully cures. To prevent this, take it in the house and put it in the back of a closet for about six months. Then turn it. But since we live in an age of instant gratification, turn away. The least that can happen is that you will get practice turning and that is always fun. Deb |
#3
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For the pens, the usual finishing wax or whatever
will do nicely. Being smaller, the chance of them splitting is greatly reduced. BRBR Don't try turning pens from green wood. Will crack every time as the wood dries. Must use dry wood. Once wet wood is glued to dry brass it can no longer move as it dries, but drying stresses will prevail and it will crack. You can try cutting some pen blanks (3/4 X 3/4 X 5 1/2) and drying them in a food dehydrator to speed up the process. You can seal the ends with yellow glue to equalize drying through the end grain. Once dry you can make your pens. I have found that Deft lacquer thinned about 40 percent with lacquer thinner makes a nice finish, including cedar. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA |
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Walnut & Cedar | Woodworking |