What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron

Hello Ron,

I've always used Titebond II and highly recommend it. With this glue, I've never
had a glue joint break. I have with most of the others.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com/

In article , RonZ says...

What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron

On 17 Aug 2003 08:07:58 -0700, Fred Holder wrote:

Hello Ron,

I've always used Titebond II and highly recommend it. With this glue, I've never
had a glue joint break. I have with most of the others.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com/


Hi Fred, have you had a glue joint break with Gorilla Glue? I've heard
that recommended quite a lot, but just bought my first few ounces yesterday
for testing.

thanks
david
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-- Rep. Dennis Kucinich


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Do a test. Make some "segments" and glue them on their endgrain. Put
them in a vise and add weight till they fail. See which one does the
best. I find poly glue best on endgrain. Aliphatic resin and poly are
both stronger than wood on edge grain (the wood will usually fail first).
Mike in Pelham, NC

RonZ wrote:

What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron

But will such testing tell you:

* Ability to hold up to whatever contents the form will have? For
example, if you make salad bowls, will they stand up to oil and
vinegar?

* Will the glue line "creep" with time? Titebond often, over time,
leaves a ridge at the seam that you can feel with your fingers.

In article , says...

But will such testing tell you:

* Ability to hold up to whatever contents the form will have? For
example, if you make salad bowls, will they stand up to oil and
vinegar?

* Will the glue line "creep" with time? Titebond often, over time,
leaves a ridge at the seam that you can feel with your fingers.

What causes this -- movement of the glue itself or movement of the wood
around the joint (caused by seasonal humidity fluctuation or whatever)?

Abe

Abe's question is something that puzzled me also.
I remember reading articles about biscuit jointing where the glue from the
biscuit swelled the wood and then it was quickly sanded. When the water from
the glue left the wood shrank back down and was then uneven in the glued
area.

So that gives us three options
Glue creep
wood movement due to moisture changes with time - seasonal movement- in
particular different movements with different kinds of wood
wood movement due to drying out after and excessive mositure change due to
glue.

If it's due to swelling due to glue and then shrinkage this should only
happen once and then could be avoided by allowing the glue joints to dry
for a few weeks before final turning or sanding.
Any other opinions/solutions/data??

Greg in Oshkosh

"Abe" wrote in message
. net...
In article , says...

But will such testing tell you:

* Ability to hold up to whatever contents the form will have? For
example, if you make salad bowls, will they stand up to oil and
vinegar?

* Will the glue line "creep" with time? Titebond often, over time,
leaves a ridge at the seam that you can feel with your fingers.

What causes this -- movement of the glue itself or movement of the wood
around the joint (caused by seasonal humidity fluctuation or whatever)?

Abe

Greg,

I don't think you are going to find too many segmented woodturners that
completely agree on the causes and cure for glue creep. I have never had a
problem with glue creep. Why? I don't know, but I do a number of things that I
think minimize the opportunity for creep to occur. Here's my thoughts on the
subject.

Most segmented woodturners will tell you that if you have a bowl that has a
creep problem, once the bowl is sanded and refinished then the creep doesn't
come back. So it stands to reason that if you let the bowl sit for a little
longer before its turned and finished then maybe creep won't happen in the first
place. That's what I do.

Most segmented woodturners don't have a creep problem and most use Titebond II
wood glue. I do too. Franklin, the manufacturer of Titebond, doesn't say
anything about the creep properties of Titebond or Titebond II glue, although it
specifies that its hide glue has very little creep. I don't think I'm going to
change glue just for an experiment.

The tighter glue joints, the less glue you have for creep to happen. That just
makes sense. Most experienced segmented woodturners don't have creep problems
and I would assume they have tight glue joints.

Maybe using wood with low moisture content makes a difference. There's no
telling what your wood moisture content is unless you check it. Personally, I
just let the wood dry out in my basement for a year or so.

Maybe the finish affects glue creep. Personally, I use sanding sealer and
lacquer which dries almost instantly. It could be that a slow drying finish
penetrates the glue and cause creep.

My thoughts are just food for thought. Like I said, I have no idea what causes
creep, just guesses.

Kevin Neelley
http:\\www.turnedwood.com


In article , Greg Kulibert says...

Abe's question is something that puzzled me also.
I remember reading articles about biscuit jointing where the glue from the
biscuit swelled the wood and then it was quickly sanded. When the water from
the glue left the wood shrank back down and was then uneven in the glued
area.

So that gives us three options
Glue creep
wood movement due to moisture changes with time - seasonal movement- in
particular different movements with different kinds of wood
wood movement due to drying out after and excessive mositure change due to
glue.

If it's due to swelling due to glue and then shrinkage this should only
happen once and then could be avoided by allowing the glue joints to dry
for a few weeks before final turning or sanding.
Any other opinions/solutions/data??

Greg in Oshkosh

"Abe" wrote in message
.net...
In article , says...

But will such testing tell you:

* Ability to hold up to whatever contents the form will have? For
example, if you make salad bowls, will they stand up to oil and
vinegar?

* Will the glue line "creep" with time? Titebond often, over time,
leaves a ridge at the seam that you can feel with your fingers.

What causes this -- movement of the glue itself or movement of the wood
around the joint (caused by seasonal humidity fluctuation or whatever)?

Abe

(RonZ) wrote in message . com...
What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron


When faced with a choice I choose to use Titebond II. I like the water
resistance and fast set. Pro bond by Elmers would also be a good
choice, the mfg. has upgraded the glue to make it meet the same water
resistance specs. as Titebond II. The Pro bond is less runny than
Titebond. You can even find Pro Bond at Wal-Mart. Good for a late
night run. My segmented turning site.
http://www.georgetroygraphics.com

Both are aliphatic resin adhesives. (fyi: adhesive is the proper term that
applies here, not glue) I've glued up turning blocks and then cut very think
bowls from them. I have some that are 18 years old. About the time aliphatic
resins were introduced. Dan

"georgetroy" wrote in message
om...
(RonZ) wrote in message
. com...
What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron


When faced with a choice I choose to use Titebond II. I like the water
resistance and fast set. Pro bond by Elmers would also be a good
choice, the mfg. has upgraded the glue to make it meet the same water
resistance specs. as Titebond II. The Pro bond is less runny than
Titebond. You can even find Pro Bond at Wal-Mart. Good for a late
night run. My segmented turning site.
http://www.georgetroygraphics.com

Actually, neither are aliphatic resin glues. Titebond II is a polyvinyl acetate
glue (PVA) and Probond is a polyurethane glue. The original Titebond is an
aliphatic resin glue. I have found that Titebond II is the best glue for
segmented turning.

Kevin

In article , Dan Bollinger
says...

Both are aliphatic resin adhesives. (fyi: adhesive is the proper term that
applies here, not glue) I've glued up turning blocks and then cut very think
bowls from them. I have some that are 18 years old. About the time aliphatic
resins were introduced. Dan

"georgetroy" wrote in message
. com...
(RonZ) wrote in message
.com...
What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron


When faced with a choice I choose to use Titebond II. I like the water
resistance and fast set. Pro bond by Elmers would also be a good
choice, the mfg. has upgraded the glue to make it meet the same water
resistance specs. as Titebond II. The Pro bond is less runny than
Titebond. You can even find Pro Bond at Wal-Mart. Good for a late
night run. My segmented turning site.
http://www.georgetroygraphics.com



Kevin Neelley
http://www.turnedwood.com

TBII is a PVA!? Geez, that's the same as old Elmer's glue. I don't
recommend it for turning. Use TB, the aliphatic. Aliphatics have almost
twice the shear strength as PVAs and the one I've had perfect success with
over 20 years of turning. Dan

Actually, neither are aliphatic resin glues. Titebond II is a polyvinyl
acetate
glue (PVA) and Probond is a polyurethane glue. The original Titebond is
an
aliphatic resin glue. I have found that Titebond II is the best glue for
segmented turning.

Kevin

In article , Dan Bollinger
says...

Both are aliphatic resin adhesives. (fyi: adhesive is the proper term
that
applies here, not glue) I've glued up turning blocks and then cut very
think
bowls from them. I have some that are 18 years old. About the time
aliphatic
resins were introduced. Dan

"georgetroy" wrote in message
. com...
(RonZ) wrote in message
.com...
What glue is best to use for segmented turning?

CA, epoxy, polyurethane, yellow aliphatic resin, something else?

Thanks in advance,

Ron


When faced with a choice I choose to use Titebond II. I like the water
resistance and fast set. Pro bond by Elmers would also be a good
choice, the mfg. has upgraded the glue to make it meet the same water
resistance specs. as Titebond II. The Pro bond is less runny than
Titebond. You can even find Pro Bond at Wal-Mart. Good for a late
night run. My segmented turning site.
http://www.georgetroygraphics.com



Kevin Neelley
http://www.turnedwood.com

I use Titebond II exclusively. I've read some complaints about glue
creep but have never experienced any. Some of my test pieces have
been sitting in my barn for several years. It reaches 100 F sometimes
in the summer & near 100% humidity, drops lower than -10 F sometime
each winter with 0% humidity - also in winter the temp will climb to
70-80 then drop back to whatever the overnight low is on those days
I'm out there working. Haven't had a single joint failure yet.

Thank you all for your help. It looks like I have to try Titebond II.
I live in Israel so it gets very hot and dry here. I have several
pieces that over the years just disassembled. I don't think I'll find
the Titebond II here so I'll have to order it from the good ol' US.

Warm regards,

Ron

(RonZ) wrote in message . com...
Thank you all for your help. It looks like I have to try Titebond II.
I live in Israel so it gets very hot and dry here. I have several
pieces that over the years just disassembled. I don't think I'll find
the Titebond II here so I'll have to order it from the good ol' US.

Warm regards,

Ron



I am one of the Odd Men Out in the Segmented world. I use Hot Hide
Glue. Now mind you, I do not make Segmented Bowls that would be used
for Food. Hot Hide Glue has been around about 4000 years, and works.


Mark