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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of
12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX |
#2
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On Aug 17, 9:29 am, "Paul Gilbert" wrote:
Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX This is not a response from one of the experts in the group but I just cut down an aging cherry tree in my woods in WI and covered the ends of the downed log and the 3 foot high stump with paint from a spray can until I can finish the job. I was not expecting major problems but then may be surprised. Why not just paint the wood with an oil-based paint until you get the Anchorseal (sp?) When you get the Anchorseal paint over the other paint. This approach may help until you get the Anchorseal. Do others in the group ever get caught short and end up putting Anchorseal over a 'priming coat' or won't it stick to anything but wood? |
#3
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In article ,
"Paul Gilbert" wrote: Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX I'd use a heavy body house latex paint -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#4
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Paint will work better than nothing. I would recomend a couple of
coats. I prefer to leave log sections rather than cutting it up into blanks that I would cut bowls from. Cut out the pith. Cover to keep out sun and wind. Keep in a shady spot. You can even put the sections on a tarp, pile all the shavings on the wood, then cover it all with a white tarp. This is in addition to painting the ends. While Dallas is hot, it is also humid, so that will help keep the bowl sections better than dry air will. robo hippy On Aug 17, 8:18*am, Ralph E Lindberg wrote: In article , *"Paul Gilbert" wrote: Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. *I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? *What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. *During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. *Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. *A driveway covered with 2" of *bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX I'd use a heavy body house latex paint -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found athttp://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#5
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:29:38 -0500, "Paul Gilbert"
wrote: If it's only for a week, try keeping them in plastic bags or wrap, but check them every couple of days for mildew/fungus.. IMHO, this works well for a very short time but should not be considered an alternative for sealer.. BTW: my budget doesn't allow for Anchorseal, so I use this: http://www.woodworkingshop.com Go there and search for Sealtite" Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#6
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our turners club buys anchorseal in 55 gal. drums and resells it to the
members (bring you own gallon jug). that makes it cheaper than sealtite. Paul Gilbert "mac davis" wrote in message ... On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:29:38 -0500, "Paul Gilbert" wrote: If it's only for a week, try keeping them in plastic bags or wrap, but check them every couple of days for mildew/fungus.. IMHO, this works well for a very short time but should not be considered an alternative for sealer.. BTW: my budget doesn't allow for Anchorseal, so I use this: http://www.woodworkingshop.com Go there and search for Sealtite" Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#7
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mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:29:38 -0500, "Paul Gilbert" wrote: If it's only for a week, try keeping them in plastic bags or wrap, but check them every couple of days for mildew/fungus.. IMHO, this works well for a very short time but should not be considered an alternative for sealer.. BTW: my budget doesn't allow for Anchorseal, so I use this: http://www.woodworkingshop.com Go there and search for Sealtite" Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. A driveway covered with 2" of bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX mac Please remove splinters before emailing I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A friend in need is someone to avoid. |
#8
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. Did ya shake it well, Gerald? My first experience was like yours, then I realized that most of the "good stuff" was still in the bottom of the jug.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#9
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 12:54:04 -0500, "Paul Gilbert"
wrote: our turners club buys anchorseal in 55 gal. drums and resells it to the members (bring you own gallon jug). that makes it cheaper than sealtite. Paul Gilbert well, logically, if you bought Sealtite in a drum, it would be even cheaper, right? The question is whether or not Anchorseal is a lot better than Sealtite, in which case, the cost shouldn't matter.. I used maybe a quart or 2 a year before I moved, and at the time I bought the sealtite, it was the only local product I could get.. Worked fine for me as I remember.... I haven't seen green wood for over 2 years now.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#10
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mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. Did ya shake it well, Gerald? My first experience was like yours, then I realized that most of the "good stuff" was still in the bottom of the jug.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing Yep. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A friend in need is someone to avoid. |
#11
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On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 02:13:54 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:
Hey Gerald.. just re-read this and realized that you weren't comparing it to anchorseal.. I've never found sealer at Woodcraft, what name does it go by there? mac davis wrote: On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. Did ya shake it well, Gerald? My first experience was like yours, then I realized that most of the "good stuff" was still in the bottom of the jug.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing Yep. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#12
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Woodcraft had their own sealer, but they are switching to anchor seal
as well. robo hippy On Aug 18, 8:14*am, mac davis wrote: On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 02:13:54 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Hey Gerald.. just re-read this and realized that you weren't comparing it *to anchorseal.. I've never found sealer at Woodcraft, what name does it go by there? mac davis wrote: On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. Did ya shake it well, Gerald? My first experience was like yours, then I realized that most of the "good stuff" was still in the bottom of the jug.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing Yep. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#13
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mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 02:13:54 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: Hey Gerald.. just re-read this and realized that you weren't comparing it to anchorseal.. I've never found sealer at Woodcraft, what name does it go by there? In my haste (which is unusual in me) I mis-spoke. I have used some from Woodcraft in the past, but my last few jugs came from Packard. They call it Green Wood Sealer. mac davis wrote: On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote: I tried a gallon of this and found it too thin and drippy. Went back to the one sold by woodcraft. Just my weird preference. Did ya shake it well, Gerald? My first experience was like yours, then I realized that most of the "good stuff" was still in the bottom of the jug.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing Yep. mac Please remove splinters before emailing -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA A friend: someone who likes you even after they know you. |
#14
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robo hippy wrote:
Woodcraft had their own sealer, but they are switching to anchor seal as well. robo hippy I've always just assumed that the house brands were relabeled Anchor Seal. Sort of like Libbey and Del Monte, etc. green beans all coming from the same factory... ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller http://www.alaska.net/~atftb Juneau, Alaska Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://counter.li.org |
#15
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Paul if you aren't able to get any from the other turners of the club,
I would get plastic bags and seal the blanks in there, this will be good for a week or two, place the bags in as cool a location you can find, even if you would get a bit of mildew/fungus on the blanks it can easily be wiped off, and /or turned away, it is what I use at times to keep the wood from splitting. It would have been better if you had been able to let the logs in their whole length and then placed off of the ground and out of the sun and wind, but you now have to do the best you can, and the plastic bags with some of the shavings will do a decent job, but only for a short time, the same counts for the anchor seal, just for a bit longer time, depending on local conditions the wood is in, good luck and try to get the blanks rough turned before it is all fire wood ;-))) Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo On Aug 17, 10:29*am, "Paul Gilbert" wrote: Yesterday I picked up on the street some Bodark logs and sawed up a bunch of 12 - 18" bowl blanks with a chain saw. *I don't have any more anchor seal and probably won't be able to get more for a week or so. Can I just paint them with oil based paint that I have lying around? *What about putting them in a big plastic garbage bag and storing them until I get the wax? I talked to the guy who had the tree sawed down and found out that the tree had been down a week. *During that time it had already started to crack in the Dallas TX heat. I will not get to some of these blanks for several months. *Has all of my time been wasted? I sawed up the blanks in my driveway. *A driveway covered with 2" of *bright yellow saw dust is a real traffic stopper. Thanks Paul Gilbert Dallas, TX |
#16
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Kevin Miller wrote:
robo hippy wrote: Woodcraft had their own sealer, but they are switching to anchor seal as well. robo hippy I've always just assumed that the house brands were relabeled Anchor Seal. Sort of like Libbey and Del Monte, etc. green beans all coming from the same factory... ....Kevin AnchorSeal is made by U C Coatings in Buffalo, NY. http://www.uccoatings.com/ I've toured their manufacturing plant and the only label I saw on their end sealer was "AnchorSeal". -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
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