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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of
hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. Thanks, Bart. - **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living** Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: === www.haruteq.com === |
#2
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In message , Bart V
writes My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. Thanks, Bart. - Have you tried Spray mount or similar, the spray used for mounting photographs. From memory there are temporary and permanent versions but from what I remember if has good adhesion against sheer. -- John |
#4
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Why not switch to PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive)
---"sticky-back"disks? They have the adhesive on the backside and it stays there when you remove it. There are also several kinds of temporary fastening systems like Hook-it, etc. After offering this advice, I note that I still use that old fashioned system with the hard-to-remove adhesive on my 9" disk sander just because I have bunch of the old style disks left. Maybe I will go out to the shop right now and toss out those disks. Then I will probably change disks a lot more often rather than using them when mostly worn out! Pete Stanaitis ----------------- Bart V wrote: My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. Thanks, Bart. - **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living** Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: === www.haruteq.com === |
#5
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I use a 3M spray adhesive, I think #377 but I am not in the shop right now,
and it works well. You should be able to get it at the nearest auto supply if not the hardware. I have even seen it in the craft shops, but not as reliably. -- God bless and safe turning Darrell Feltmate Truro, NS Canada http://aroundthewoods.com http://roundopinions.blogspot.com "spaco" wrote in message ... Why not switch to PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive) ---"sticky-back"disks? They have the adhesive on the backside and it stays there when you remove it. There are also several kinds of temporary fastening systems like Hook-it, etc. After offering this advice, I note that I still use that old fashioned system with the hard-to-remove adhesive on my 9" disk sander just because I have bunch of the old style disks left. Maybe I will go out to the shop right now and toss out those disks. Then I will probably change disks a lot more often rather than using them when mostly worn out! Pete Stanaitis ----------------- Bart V wrote: My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. Thanks, Bart. - **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living** Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: === www.haruteq.com === |
#6
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(Bart V) writes:
I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. or you can get 5 faceplates from Bill Noble for $25 + $10 shipping. Make a sanding disk for each one. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#7
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![]() "Bart V" wrote in message ... My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. Thanks, Bart. - **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living** Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: === www.haruteq.com === i just use a 12" psa disk and a crepe stick to clean the disk. Haven't had to change the paper yet jc |
#8
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carrying it one step further, have you
guys built some kind of support around this configuration or just talking about a hand held setup? |
#9
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Sorry
I thought we were talking about a sanding disk that mounted on the lathe headstock. I made a box that straddelled the ways for a platform. worked great before I got my belt/disk sander and I assume it still does. -- God bless and safe turning Darrell Feltmate Truro, NS Canada http://aroundthewoods.com http://roundopinions.blogspot.com "Max63" wrote in message ... carrying it one step further, have you guys built some kind of support around this configuration or just talking about a hand held setup? |
#10
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Max63 writes:
carrying it one step further, have you guys built some kind of support around this configuration or just talking about a hand held setup? I have a Jet 1236, and the ways are square. I glued together some 2x10 pine, cut two dados on the bottom, and one on the top. The top just fits a small miter gauge fence I have. I glued two pieces of 3/4" ply to the bottom into the two dados, after cutting them so they "just" fit the ways of my lathe. I can 1) screw on the sanding disk (using Bill Noble faceplates) 2) Drop the platform on the lathe 3) push it snug (it doesn't wobble) 4) Add the miter fence It was a fast project to do, other than waiting for glue to dry. It's easy to put on and take off. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#11
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On Jan 22, 2:49 pm, (Bart V) wrote:
My lathe has been doing double duty as a disk sander. A slab of hardwood on the face plate with a slice of MDF to provided a nice and true flat surface. I've been using contact cement, the rubbery stuff, to glue a sheet of sanding paper on the MDF but it's a pain changing the paper with the glue gumming up and all. I sand small pieces of hardwood and the surface of a hook & loop setup does not suit my needs. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions for a more suitable type of glue/cement that lets go more easily when changing paper. You can buy sanding disks with adhesive already on the back. My advise though would be to use the best possible abrasive you can find so that they don't need changing often. You need something designed for machine use, probably not something you use for hand sanding. I have a disk permanently mounted on an old lathe. I use abrasive on some real heavy duty backing. It came off of one of those big wide sanders they use in cabinet shops. It doesn't get a whole lot of use, but it's been years since I changed it. I use the same stuff flat on the bench to hone skew chisels. |
#12
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Thanks for all the suggestions folks, greatly appreciated.
The woods I sand are all hard, hard woods. A lot of it is teak and it's as rough on the paper as it it on the sawblade and chisels... Yes, I do use the crepe stick as well but the sanding paper gets "shiney" after a while. I use the Norton 3X aluminum oxide paper and I found it really does last a lot longer than the standard paper. The normal self-adhesive round paper just don't cut it on the woods I use. They're only small pieces of wood and the final dimensions for them are quite delicate and important so the coursest I can use safely is 150 grit. In case you're wondering what I'm up to take a peek at this page: http://haruteq.com/BR-08.htm Bart. P.S. Leo - I'll be going to the Hamilton woodshow [most likely] on Friday, will you be going? - **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living** Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: === www.haruteq.com === |
#13
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#14
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Hi Bart, I can tell by your web site that you know this, but someone
might not. Used fractional hp motors are so easy to come by that to tie up a lathe seems counter productive. Motors for washing machines, furnace blowers, etc are often available for a gifted turning at a shop or free at the curb. A Harbor Freight work arbor with washers and a Jacob's chuck threaded to fit and you're set up. I enjoyed your site and learned from it. Banjo bridges. Now that's a speciality, you ought to add drumsticks and batons. ![]() I'm musing several electron rings outside the nucleus, but I wonder if the wave form & frequency transmitting characteristics of different timbers and of different physical states of the same timber affect turning characterisics. Could a variable frequency & waveform generator and an O-scope tell us something useful about turning blanks that personal experience, asking rcw and common sense doesn't? I doubt it, but wondering on rcw is still tax free ...for now. ![]() Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
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