Ok, I know this sounds nuts, but I'm seriously thinking about making
oversized pens ( no innards ) as "legs" for my lathe bench and possibly
to hang outside my shop. they would need to be 22¼" long. I thought
about making them dimensional proportianiate to a real pen. This gives
a rough example of what I'm thinking about.
http://www.treeturner.com/WOODEN%20PEN%20LEGS.JPG
The main problem I'm having is the fact that the 1014vs only goes to 12"
which doesn't seem like a large problem until I start trying to figure
out how to hold the whole mess together. I've got some tin I can use to
make a clip and some silver paint. As far as the wood goes I've got
Pressure Treated 4"x4" posts that are around 48" long so that is not a
problem either. I'm not sure what size "blank" to start with but if a
regular blank is 3/4"x3/4" x 5" then I would assume I need a 3" x 3" blank.
What do you guys think about this crazy idea? NOW I wish I had bought
the extension bed for the lathe... *sigh* well next time I get to go
tool shopping I will get it.

Troy

Troy what about a turned or drilled hole in the ends that have to go
together, and then use a dowel to hold them together, glued or friction
fit.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Troy wrote:
Ok, I know this sounds nuts, but I'm seriously thinking about making
oversized pens ( no innards ) as "legs" for my lathe bench and possibly
to hang outside my shop. they would need to be 22¼" long. I thought
about making them dimensional proportianiate to a real pen. This gives
a rough example of what I'm thinking about.
http://www.treeturner.com/WOODEN%20PEN%20LEGS.JPG
The main problem I'm having is the fact that the 1014vs only goes to 12"
which doesn't seem like a large problem until I start trying to figure
out how to hold the whole mess together. I've got some tin I can use to
make a clip and some silver paint. As far as the wood goes I've got
Pressure Treated 4"x4" posts that are around 48" long so that is not a
problem either. I'm not sure what size "blank" to start with but if a
regular blank is 3/4"x3/4" x 5" then I would assume I need a 3" x 3" blank.
What do you guys think about this crazy idea? NOW I wish I had bought
the extension bed for the lathe... *sigh* well next time I get to go
tool shopping I will get it.

Troy

wrote:
Troy what about a turned or drilled hole in the ends that have to go
together, and then use a dowel to hold them together, glued or friction
fit.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Troy wrote:

yes, I'm thinking that will be the best way. I'm thinking about perhaps
a 2 or 3" deep by say 9/16" tenon and the gluing them together. I could
use either epoxy or CA. The CB could be done the same way. This should
be fun. And really once I get started I bet it won't take that long.
Does anyone know if a 3" blank will be large enough?
Should I trim the corners first?
One thing I don't have is a "V" for my bandsaw.

Troy

Do not use the pressure treated wood
1. It is full of nasty chemicals
2. Pine is a bad wood to turn to soft
3. The pith is always in the center of the 4X4
4. PT wood is not dried before or after treatment.

I would raid a fire wood pile and find some maple.


Walt A


On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 16:32:32 -0500, Troy
wrote:

Ok, I know this sounds nuts, but I'm seriously thinking about making
oversized pens ( no innards ) as "legs" for my lathe bench and possibly
to hang outside my shop. they would need to be 22¼" long. I thought
about making them dimensional proportianiate to a real pen. This gives
a rough example of what I'm thinking about.
http://www.treeturner.com/WOODEN%20PEN%20LEGS.JPG
The main problem I'm having is the fact that the 1014vs only goes to 12"
which doesn't seem like a large problem until I start trying to figure
out how to hold the whole mess together. I've got some tin I can use to
make a clip and some silver paint. As far as the wood goes I've got
Pressure Treated 4"x4" posts that are around 48" long so that is not a
problem either. I'm not sure what size "blank" to start with but if a
regular blank is 3/4"x3/4" x 5" then I would assume I need a 3" x 3" blank.
What do you guys think about this crazy idea? NOW I wish I had bought
the extension bed for the lathe... *sigh* well next time I get to go
tool shopping I will get it.

Troy

Just so happens I have some beautiful figured maple. I hadn't thought
about using that. I guess it wouldn't hurt as it wasn't very expensive
to by the slab. But I would have to laminate it unless I scaled down
the dimensions. Its only 2½" thick.
Why is the pith bad? I don't know really what it is or why it matters.
I didn't know PT wood was that bad. Well, I defintely have a bunch of
it for the yard then I guess. I've been using it for legs in my office
and such ( un-turned ) as I only paid $1 per stick and each is 4-6' long.
Since I'm only talking about 2' pieces I can see your point. Well it
matter that the wood is probably still slightly "wet:"?
This kind of information is why I love this resouce. TYVM!

Troy

Walt & Jenne Ahlgrim wrote:
Do not use the pressure treated wood
1. It is full of nasty chemicals
2. Pine is a bad wood to turn to soft
3. The pith is always in the center of the 4X4
4. PT wood is not dried before or after treatment.

I would raid a fire wood pile and find some maple.


Walt A


On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 16:32:32 -0500, Troy
wrote:

Just so happens I have some beautiful figured maple. I hadn't thought
about using that. I guess it wouldn't hurt as it wasn't very
expensive
to by the slab. But I would have to laminate it unless I scaled down
the dimensions. Its only 2½" thick.

You are missing the best thing about the lathe. There is little need
to spend money on wood it does grow on trees. Your project is perfect
for the fire wood pile. You will be amazed at the treasures you will
find and the great feeling you get when you make something beautiful
from the burn pile.




Why is the pith bad? I don't know really what it is or why it
matters.

Pith is the center of the tree. It is a weak spot as the wood dries it
tends to crack and warp if you select a piece of stock from near the
pith.



I didn't know PT wood was that bad.

The old stuff is Copper Chromium Arsenic



Well, I defintely have a bunch of
it for the yard then I guess. I've been using it for legs in my
office
and such ( un-turned ) as I only paid $1 per stick and each is 4-6'
long.
Since I'm only talking about 2' pieces I can see your point.

When we turn wood we are covered with the dust inside and out.




Well it
matter that the wood is probably still slightly "wet:"?

As the wood dries it changes shape from round to oval the closer to
the pith the more it moves some woods move more than others.




This kind of information is why I love this resouce. TYVM!

I think every turner should join a local AAW club
http://www.woodturner.org/











On Thu, 05 Oct 2006 00:37:28 -0500, Troy
wrote:

Just so happens I have some beautiful figured maple. I hadn't thought
about using that. I guess it wouldn't hurt as it wasn't very expensive
to by the slab. But I would have to laminate it unless I scaled down
the dimensions. Its only 2½" thick.
Why is the pith bad? I don't know really what it is or why it matters.
I didn't know PT wood was that bad. Well, I defintely have a bunch of
it for the yard then I guess. I've been using it for legs in my office
and such ( un-turned ) as I only paid $1 per stick and each is 4-6' long.
Since I'm only talking about 2' pieces I can see your point. Well it
matter that the wood is probably still slightly "wet:"?
This kind of information is why I love this resouce. TYVM!

Troy

Walt & Jenne Ahlgrim wrote:
Do not use the pressure treated wood
1. It is full of nasty chemicals
2. Pine is a bad wood to turn to soft
3. The pith is always in the center of the 4X4
4. PT wood is not dried before or after treatment.

I would raid a fire wood pile and find some maple.


Walt A


On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 16:32:32 -0500, Troy
wrote: