Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

I could remove the offending plank about 6 planks in from one edge and
glue and
re-varnish but i know this will show when i varnish it again
(overlap).
Could re sand the whole floor, but the diamond hard varnish is rock
hard and would take many hours, already tried this on a scrap piece of
wood.
I was toying with the idea of hiring a hilti nail gun and fire nails
through the wood and into the concrete, i have spoken to the hire
company and this can be done. Quite expensive to hire, nails and
cartridges are the biggest expensive.
I have seen that you can now buy concrete screws, thought of screwing
through the wood and into the concrete subfloor.

Has anyone got any suggestion what i should do.

Thanks.

ian wrote:

Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

I could remove the offending plank about 6 planks in from one edge and
glue and
re-varnish but i know this will show when i varnish it again
(overlap).
Could re sand the whole floor, but the diamond hard varnish is rock
hard and would take many hours, already tried this on a scrap piece of
wood.
I was toying with the idea of hiring a hilti nail gun and fire nails
through the wood and into the concrete, i have spoken to the hire
company and this can be done. Quite expensive to hire, nails and
cartridges are the biggest expensive.
I have seen that you can now buy concrete screws, thought of screwing
through the wood and into the concrete subfloor.

Has anyone got any suggestion what i should do.

Thanks.


Do teh same as mee, wait for winter and central heating to get it back
in shape :-0)

Alternatively, put heavy weights on. With luck it will 'conform' eventually.

Tried the heavy weight, seems to work for about two days then starts
pushing up.

I agree the central heating will shrink the planks, i was amazed how
much they did shrink around the edges of the wall under the skirting
boards last winter. (did a proper job removed the skirting boards,
that wasnt easy but better looking).
I am tempted to remove the skirting to see if there is a gap around
the edges i know i had left some expansion, maybe not enough.

In message
(ian) wrote:

Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

[snip]

Is it not customary to paint both sides of such particularly soft
timber to reduce bowing?.

If the planks are only painted on one side they will tend to warp or
pull up as the coating dries.

Or was the timber already pre-treated?.

Steve.



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