I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least one.
(I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new
ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic
microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of
appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

"Clive George" wrote in message
o.uk...
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least
one. (I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new
ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic
microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of
appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

Maplin,
RS
and that's 2 before I Google it

"R" wrote in message
...

"Clive George" wrote in message
o.uk...
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least
one. (I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get
new ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly
generic microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea
of appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

Maplin,
RS
and that's 2 before I Google it


look at the markings, type them into Google, i found some for a soldering
iron on eBay for a quid.

Steve

In article , Clive
George writes
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least one.
(I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new
ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic
microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of
appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

They will almost certainly be high current V3 microswitches (a standard
format) with plain button actuators. They are dead easy to get in 16A
versions but fewer suppliers have the 20A+ ratings that are sensible to
use in electric showers.

IME RS Components have the best range of these and I believe they do
allow one off web orders.

Last time I did this I used Cherry microswitches eg RS code 159-4477
(£2.17 + vat) but I see they have a Honeywell one that is cheaper and is
rated for high temperature use too, RS code 515-729 (£1.35 + vat)
http://rswww.com

Pop the lid to check how many the shower uses, some use a lot, and it's
easiest to get enough to replace the whole lot if needs be.

If the shower is getting long in the tooth, watch for overheating damage
on the loom going to the microswitches, the spade connections they use
are right on the limit at 20A and it doesn't take much to push them over
the edge into overheating. Make sure the spades are a really tight fit
on replacement.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 06:26:17 -0000, "R" wrote:


"Clive George" wrote in message
news:fZGdneaPkrOBVNLWnZ2dnUVZ8gydnZ2d@brightview. co.uk...
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least
one. (I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new
ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic
microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of
appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

Maplin,
RS
and that's 2 before I Google it


Google for Shower Doc /Doctor ...Think they are in Edinburgh

On 15 Jan, 01:46, "Clive George" wrote:
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead

I'd agree with Fred here. However also check the over-temp safety
switches. I've fixed some T80s before now; I've seen dead temperature
switches, but the microswitches seem to last.

In article ,
fred writes:

If the shower is getting long in the tooth, watch for overheating damage
on the loom going to the microswitches, the spade connections they use
are right on the limit at 20A and it doesn't take much to push them over
the edge into overheating. Make sure the spades are a really tight fit
on replacement.

In a new one I looked inside, they're bootlace ferules spot welded on.
If I had to replace, I'd probably solder them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 15 Jan, 01:46, "Clive George" wrote:
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead

I'd agree with Fred here. However also check the over-temp safety
switches. I've fixed some T80s before now; I've seen dead temperature
switches, but the microswitches seem to last.

I've already rejuvenated mine a while ago - the contacts got knackered and
weren't conducting, so I scraped them clean. This time I thought I'd have a
go at finding out if replacements were rather cheaper than the Triton
prices. I've not actually got them out in front of me right now though.

Fred, thanks for that, it's what I was looking for and most helpful. I'd
seen the honeywell one you mention and thought it looked to be the most
appropriate one, but it's nice to have reassurance.

R, I can find microswitches easily enough, but knowing which ones are
appropriate for a shower (form factor, electrical capacity) is what I was
after. And Maplin don't do ones which will carry enough current. (neither do
CPC/Farnell...)

Clive George pretended :
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least one.
(I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new ones).

I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic
microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of
appropriate replacements from elsewhere?

Most likely they will be a standard part, take a look at Maplins
offerings, they have an online catalogue.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In article ,
"Clive George" writes:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 15 Jan, 01:46, "Clive George" wrote:
I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements,
controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead

I'd agree with Fred here. However also check the over-temp safety
switches. I've fixed some T80s before now; I've seen dead temperature
switches, but the microswitches seem to last.

I've already rejuvenated mine a while ago - the contacts got knackered and
weren't conducting, so I scraped them clean. This time I thought I'd have a
go at finding out if replacements were rather cheaper than the Triton
prices. I've not actually got them out in front of me right now though.

If I was designing a shower like these, I'd use a high current
triac to do the switching, heaksunk to the incoming water supply.
Not to mention that would also give you the capability of more
proportional control too.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

If I was designing a shower like these, I'd use a high current
triac to do the switching, heaksunk to the incoming water supply.
Not to mention that would also give you the capability of more
proportional control too.

Heh - I've never felt the need to have proportional power control on an
electric shower, since they're never powerful enough anyway :-)

(maybe to cool down at the end though - but I imagine the showers which do
that merely run the water a bit after switching the kettle off).