Hi all

What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the connection at
the 'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.

1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?

Cheers

Jim

Jim wrote:
Hi all

What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the
connection at the 'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas
cooker.
1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?

Cheers

Jim

I always use a couple of turns of gas PTFE then test with dilute Fairy.

Si

Jim wrote:

What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the connection at
the 'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.

1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?

You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose
connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

Jim wrote:

What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the
connection at the 'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.

Bayonet connector could do with a wipe of kitchen oil. I wrongly
connected our hob with a flex hose and I have had problems (not many)
with it. And kitchen oil has cured it. It is secure now, until I put the
piping right.

1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?


You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose
connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

Are those gas detector sprays any good?

As I may have said before, I have worked with many gasses that are much
more dangerous than North Sea gas.
My standard method for leak detection was along your lines. A bit of
washing up liquid and some water. But on its own, it can't detect tiny
leaks, or even not tiny leaks.

My method was to surround the joint with a collar of foam by agitating
the brush around the joint, until it had a collar of foam bubbles around it.

If you can't get a collar, then you have quite a large leak. The
escaping gas is blowing the bubble apart before you can see it

If you get a collar, then you have to look out for tiny leaks by
observing the bubbles. Any growth means that you have a leak. You will
need a mirror to do this and a bright light.

Take care if you are not certain what you are doing.

Dave

Dave wrote:

You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose
connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

Are those gas detector sprays any good?

They are ok, although some work better than others IME... not as good as
a pressure drop test with a manometer obviously. The main advantage of
washing up liquid is you know they should not be corrosive for any of
the components.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...

The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not be
corrosive for any of the components.

Washing up liquid is very corrosive for iron parts.. nearly all of it uses
salt as a thickening agent.
Its best to wash it off.

Its why you don't use washing up liquid to wash cars.

John Rumm wrote:

The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not
be corrosive for any of the components.

You meant the main advantage *over* WUL, presumably?

--
Andy

John Rumm wrote:
Dave wrote:

You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose
connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

Are those gas detector sprays any good?

They are ok, although some work better than others IME... not as good as
a pressure drop test with a manometer obviously. The main advantage of
washing up liquid is you know they should not be corrosive for any of

Sorry, that ought to be "advantage *over* washing up liquid"


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

dennis@home wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...

The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not be
corrosive for any of the components.

Washing up liquid is very corrosive for iron parts.. nearly all of it
uses salt as a thickening agent.
Its best to wash it off.

yup, typo, sorry.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Andy Wade wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not
be corrosive for any of the components.

You meant the main advantage *over* WUL, presumably?

Indeed...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/