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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have
the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ? |
#2
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#3
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In article .com,
Weatherlawyer writes wrote: I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ? As it isn't a security issue (in fact it isn't a safety issue either is it?) you can just use a roller catch. But how are you going to pull the door closed without an handle? A closed will have to be set just right to stop it pushing past the catch without the frame having a rebate. Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick? A door needs to have some sort of a leading edge (planed off the side opposite the hinges.) One way around reducing the gap -which is going to show on the bedroom side of the door, is to turn the leg of the frame slightly to meet the door when it is closed. That will take some fiddling with to get it right. I have seen a door rebated so that the non-concealed side is larger than the concealed side and hence can close against the similarly rebated frame. -- John Alexander, Remove NOSPAM if replying by e-mail |
#4
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![]() John wrote: In article .com, Weatherlawyer writes wrote: I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ? As it isn't a security issue (in fact it isn't a safety issue either is it?) you can just use a roller catch. But how are you going to pull the door closed without an handle? A closed will have to be set just right to stop it pushing past the catch without the frame having a rebate. Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick? A door needs to have some sort of a leading edge (planed off the side opposite the hinges.) One way around reducing the gap -which is going to show on the bedroom side of the door, is to turn the leg of the frame slightly to meet the door when it is closed. That will take some fiddling with to get it right. I have seen a door rebated so that the non-concealed side is larger than the concealed side and hence can close against the similarly rebated frame. I never thought of that bt you are still left with the gap needed for clearance. If the leading edge corner of the door will just clear the frame by the thickness of a coat of paint, it will be about 2 mm from the frame when fully shut. That is because the measurement at the first position is a diagonal through the door from the hinge to that leading edge. When fully closed it is just the width of the door. A difference in measurement which is the square root of the sum of the square of the thickness of the door and the square of the width. As for a stop or rebate, it would be no problem to screw or glue a strip onto the back of the door. |
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