The windows at home are made of small rectangles (15cmx10cm) of glass framed into strips of lead. Fifteen of these rectangles are then framed into an iron frame.

I have to replace a couple of glass pieces that broke.


I can lift the thin lead strips around the broken rectangle, the problem is that the glass is very tightly framed against the lead and it is very difficult to lift enough so that the end of the glass is visible.

There is also a great risk of breaking the adjacent glass pieces.

Also, the corners are welded and the only way to lift them is to cut through the weldings.

Perhaps someone familiar with this type of window knows if there a better way to do this.

Thanks,

Antonio

Hi Antonio

On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 13:37:27 +0000, asalcedo
wrote:


The windows at home are made of small rectangles (15cmx10cm) of glass
framed into strips of lead. Fifteen of these rectangles are then framed
into an iron frame.

I have to replace a couple of glass pieces that broke.


I can lift the thin lead strips around the broken rectangle, the
problem is that the glass is very tightly framed against the lead and
it is very difficult to lift enough so that the end of the glass is
visible.

There is also a great risk of breaking the adjacent glass pieces.

Also, the corners are welded and the only way to lift them is to cut
through the weldings.

Perhaps someone familiar with this type of window knows if there a
better way to do this.

Thanks,

Antonio

I know this is a diy newsgroup - but my first recommendation would be
to take the whole lot, iron frame and all, round to your friendly
local stained glass restoration place. It's one of those jobs where
you can very quickly end up with more broken glass than unbroken glass
- been there, done that !

The other thing is that, assuming the thing is at all 'old', you'll
probably want to do the job right and get the whole thing re-leaded...
which involves disassembling it, cutting new lead 'came' (that's what
the channel is called) to fit, soldering the joints and then brushing
a weatherproofing compound into the gap between the glass and the
lead.

If you really want to do it yourself, you can buy all the necessary
from your friendly local stained glass supplier - you can use a
Stanley knife to cut through the soldered joints at the corners (may
be easier if you first use a glass cutter to score the broken panes
and break them out in small pieces ) (mind eyes / fingers etc!) and
then gently peel the lead back.

Once you've refitted the new glass you can then re-solder the corners
(use stained-glass liquid flux or a tallow candle at the joints - and
a big soldering iron) and then brush new weatherproofing compound into
the gaps.

If you need more detailed info please ask

Adrian
Suffolk UK

======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply

In article ,
says...

The windows at home are made of small rectangles (15cmx10cm) of glass
framed into strips of lead. Fifteen of these rectangles are then framed
into an iron frame.

I have to replace a couple of glass pieces that broke.


If they're just cracked I'd leave them - otherwise the whole pane will
probably need re-leading.

Hi Adrian,

Thank you for your informative reply.

I will find a local stained glass restoration shop and proceed from there.

However, it is also a hassle to take down the whole window to a shop. And, as Rob Morley says, the shop may want to relead the whole pane.

With your information I feel confident enough to give it a try, but I will stop by the shop first.

Regards,

Antonio

asalcedo wrote:

The windows at home are made of small rectangles (15cmx10cm) of glass
framed into strips of lead. Fifteen of these rectangles are then framed
into an iron frame.

I have to replace a couple of glass pieces that broke.


I can lift the thin lead strips around the broken rectangle, the
problem is that the glass is very tightly framed against the lead and
it is very difficult to lift enough so that the end of the glass is
visible.

There is also a great risk of breaking the adjacent glass pieces.

Also, the corners are welded and the only way to lift them is to cut
through the weldings.

Perhaps someone familiar with this type of window knows if there a
better way to do this.


What you do is put diagonals into the corners, and fold back the strips
and lift the panes out.

A little mastic or putty, and fold the dedges back restores the new pane.

Its not necessary to re-solder, but a soldering gun will cope if needs be.

Thanks,

Antonio

Rob Morley wrote:

In article ,
says...

The windows at home are made of small rectangles (15cmx10cm) of glass
framed into strips of lead. Fifteen of these rectangles are then framed
into an iron frame.

I have to replace a couple of glass pieces that broke.



If they're just cracked I'd leave them - otherwise the whole pane will
probably need re-leading.

No. My chippies replaced half a dozen cracked panes easily.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 09:14:00 +0000, asalcedo
wrote:

However, it is also a hassle to take down the whole window to a shop.

This is hard to do, as few competent stained glass restorers have a
visible shop. Ask around (architectural salvage places will usually
know). The person equipped to do a good repair may be a lot less visible
than the high street "glazier" who thinks stick-on lead is the same
stuff.

And, as Rob Morley says, the shop may want to relead the whole pane.

And what's wrong with that ? Lead is quick to work with, old lead is a
pain to repair. The point where complete re-leading is apropriate is
fairly low. OTOH, copper foil work is usually worth changing the
absolute minimum of pieces.

In article ,
says...
snip
And what's wrong with that ? Lead is quick to work with, old lead is a
pain to repair. The point where complete re-leading is apropriate is
fairly low. OTOH, copper foil work is usually worth changing the
absolute minimum of pieces.

I wuz wunderin - would it be practical to use the copper foil technique
to replace in situ the odd piece in a pane that was made up with cames?

On Sat, 5 Nov 2005 01:07:16 -0000, Rob Morley
wrote:

I wuz wunderin - would it be practical to use the copper foil technique
to replace in situ the odd piece in a pane that was made up with cames?

It certainly would - some people make up small foiled "roundels" with
lots of fine detail, then set them into a large window done by leading.

As a repair tecthnique, then I'm not so sure. If you're really just
replacing one broken pane, then the trick of snipping the corners with
side cutters, bending the lead out and then bending it back is easier.

Copper foil is _not_ weatherproof long-term (although how long it lasts
depends on technique). If you're doing this in an exterior panel, then
put a flat glass panel outside it.