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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Hello all.
After reading the numerous posts as to the best chainsaw to have, I was wondering. This being a metalworking group, where many are machinists, welders etc. who, for the most part, seem fairly self sufficient, why is it that no-one seems to want to suggest that the OP sharpen his/her own chain(s) manually? If a person uses a saw for any amount of time at all it *will* need to be sharpened. I do not advocate the use of electric sharpening stones, I have used them and found them IMHO to do more harm to a chain than good, as it is near impossible to reliably do each tooth exactly the same. Chain sharpening is the least labor intensive part of sawing IMO and can save you lots of time,gas,and money. A few pointers I might add: Always tighten your chain, if needed, before sharpening and use the proper sized round file. Secure the saw by the bar in a vice if possible, so that the chain turns freely and mark the chain so you can tell when you have filed all the links. File all the links on one side of the bar then turn the saw around and do the other side. Always use the same number of strokes on both sides of the chain, at the proper angle and depth in each tooth, if you don't, your saw will eventually try to cut a circle, as one side of the chain has more "meat" than the other. IIRC the correct angle is around 35º for most chains. Don't force the file, it will take off quite a bit of metal if it's a good file, if it ain't get a new one. Hope this short spurt helps someone out there. granpaw "Cutting wood warms three times..cutting it...splitting it...and burning it." |
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