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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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I would recommand building a Procut type chainsaw mill and just mount the
chainsaw vertically instead of horizontally like you would with the Procut. It would be easy to make a indexing mount that would let you set the angle of the blade to the bed. You can decide if you want to buy the plans for the full mill or just build your own H carriage. Having a sawmill is handy if you live in the woods. I built one about 2 years ago for under $350 plus the cost of the chainsaw and of course the plans. Here's the link: http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/index.html You might also want to check out the milling yahoo group. later, Larry E. "Terry King" wrote in message .. . (Also posted to rec.woodworking) Has anyone seen a chain saw device that has the 'far' end of the bar stabilized for more accuracy? I need to be able to cut off up to 8 by 12 beams, and do many partial cuts accurately for timber framing. I want to modify a couple of electric chain saws for this work. A sharp chainsaw with a unworn bar and chain makes a pretty accurate cut if well controlled. I want to build a sort of "chainsaw chop-saw" which controls the saw movement. Not usual 'freehand' at all. The closest thing I've seen are chain saw mills that support both ends of the bar. But they are specialized for ripping logs etc. Also there is a device with a 'follower' blade that mounts on an adapter circular saw, but the end of the bar and blade are still unsupported. Any pointers to designs or existing tools that use a bar stabilized at both ends would be appreciated! If I get something working I'll show what I did... -- Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need? |
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