Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more slop,
which I despise.

I have found tall welding tables preferable: 36" or even higher. Much
easier on the back. Very easy to kluge a stool to suit that height. Or a
platform for shorter people.
Can store lots of stuff underneath.

Did the same thing w/ a lathe--possibly the highest lathe you ever seen.
But it's great. Have a crude adjustable platform for others to use.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
which I despise.

It's much more stable to sit while welding, if the project allows it. I
have a machine stand I built from a VW engine stand. It has a 1/2" ply
top with 1/4-20 blind nuts installed in the bottom for mounting various
tools. It can mount my 4x6 belt sander, 8" bandsaw, 6 or 8" grinder or
7" compound miter saw. About 28" high. Very handy.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

carl mciver wrote:
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more slop,
which I despise.




--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Funny, I was just thinking of building a square pylon bolted to a truck
wheel, with the top crossdrilled to accept a standard mount, which could
hold a big vise, an arbor press, a bandsaw blade welder, or anything else
I thought of. I like the idea of building two of them so you can mount
a table. I have for many years had a very simple welding table which
consists of a 30x30x3/8" steel plate sitting on an old 55 gallon drum.
I have made dozens of projects on it. Many times I clamp on a sawed off
piece of 10" I-beam to raise the height of the table to make it easier
on my back. Since I only do stick welding, I don't think much of sitting
since I don't want sparks going into my lap. I suppose I could weld in
my blacksmith's apron (long) and try that sitting down.

Anyway, my next generation welding table concept was going to be height
adjustable. It's one thing if you're making something fairly 2-dimensional,
like a frame of angle iron, but if you are making a 2' box you want to be
able to weld on the top of it.

GWE

carl mciver wrote:

Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more slop,
which I despise.

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
news
I have found tall welding tables preferable: 36" or even higher. Much
easier on the back. Very easy to kluge a stool to suit that height. Or a
platform for shorter people.
Can store lots of stuff underneath.

Did the same thing w/ a lathe--possibly the highest lathe you ever seen.
But it's great. Have a crude adjustable platform for others to use.

I have to raise my SB 10L. I am not tall by any means, but a few hours
working at the lathe gives me a good deal of neck strain.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
which I despise.

"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
which I despise.


I would build it to stand up at unless you are going to TIG. And build your
component elements at the same heights so that you can lay a long piece on
your table, and have it the same height as say your drill press table.

Engineer for the most unimaginable thing in the world, and you will cover
most things.

Steve

"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
which I despise.

If you think about it, the ideal height must be a few inches below your
elbows, whether you are seated or standing, for most operations on a
workbench.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more slop,
which I despise.

Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
if need be.

Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
most limber fella anymore.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
| On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
| Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
| 2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
| today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
| with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
| tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
| By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
| for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
| stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
| vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
| in short supply.
| At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
| know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
| standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
| I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
| six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
| and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
| which I despise.
|
| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
| makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
| elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
| I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
| if need be.
|
| Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
| works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
| most limber fella anymore.
|
| Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

"Leon Heller" wrote in message
...
"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
in short supply.
At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
which I despise.

If you think about it, the ideal height must be a few inches below your
elbows, whether you are seated or standing, for most operations on a
workbench.

Actually a very interesting observation!
--
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll


Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment over
a month or two?
When you've settled on a height, jest weld the **** out of the telescoping
member, for rigidity.
Or just redo the legs, if you must.
Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set screws
for rattle, and thru-pins for strength.
But I think you'll like higher better than lower.
The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
hlink.net...
"Gunner" wrote in message
...
| On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
| Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
| 2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for
nuthin'
| today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake
drums
| with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have
different
| tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
| By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a
bigger
one
| for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
| stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a
grinder
or
| vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
| in short supply.
| At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted
to
| know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
| standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a
stool
if
| I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
| six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter
stand
| and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
| which I despise.
|
| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
| makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
| elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
| I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
| if need be.
|
| Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
| works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
| most limber fella anymore.
|
| Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When
I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right
now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended
times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to
work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

My welding table uses round pipe and has clamps to take care of the
slop. The clamps are holes in the outer pipe with a nut welded to add
threads. And then a bolt with a bar welded to it to make it into a
wing bolt. With square tubing you will either need two clamps or put
the hole on the corner so it locks in two directions.

The last wing bolt I made was done with silver solder. I ground and
filed a groove in the head that fitted the rod and gave the silver
solder a fairly large area of close contact.. Silver solder would work
well in securing a nut to the flat side of square tubing. I did have
to use two propane hand torches to get enough heat. Might have be able
to use just one and some insulating firebrick to capture the heat.


Dan

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 14:10:36 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
| On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
| Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
| 2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for nuthin'
| today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake drums
| with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have different
| tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
| By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a bigger
one
| for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
| stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a grinder
or
| vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
| in short supply.
| At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted to
| know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
| standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a stool
if
| I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
| six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter stand
| and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
| which I despise.
|
| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
| makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
| elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
| I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
| if need be.
|
| Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
| works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
| most limber fella anymore.
|
| Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

My welding table was purchased from an estate sale, and I simply stuck
2x4s under the feet until it was a comfortable height, based on
welding a number of projects.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment
over
| a month or two?
| When you've settled on a height, jest weld the **** out of the telescoping
| member, for rigidity.
| Or just redo the legs, if you must.
| Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set screws
| for rattle, and thru-pins for strength.
| But I think you'll like higher better than lower.
| The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark.
| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere, but
a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the outside
for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that
came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way to
get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and get
it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time I
did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.

Well, try to avoid 1/4-20!
Also they make, I believe, "welding nuts", w/ more meat on the outside.
But, a 3/8 nut should give you no trouble.

Ahm no 'spert, but I just spring or c-clamp it in place, use a thin rod,
3/32 at 70-100 A (I think), and weld away, starting on the hex corners.
Don't need a solid weld all around, just 3 or so solid spots.
Actually, watch out you don't burn thru the tube wall, as well. Practice on
scrap a little.
Oh, big tip:
On small nuts in particular, weld them w/ a screw threaded in, for heat
disipation/warpage. On 3/8, may not be so critical, but couldn't hurt,
f'sure.

I've done this successfully w/ 1/4-20.

You may wind up w/ a welding table up around yer chin!!
I really became surprised at how high I like tables and tools.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment
over
| a month or two?
| When you've settled on a height, jest weld the **** out of the
telescoping
| member, for rigidity.
| Or just redo the legs, if you must.
| Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set
screws
| for rattle, and thru-pins for strength.
| But I think you'll like higher better than lower.
| The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark.

| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere, but
a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the outside
for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that
came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way
to
get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and
get
it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time I
did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.

Oh yeah, w/ the clamps, you may have to tack real lite in two places, then
remove the clamps to get decent welds, iffin you don't want to bugger yer
clamps.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Well, try to avoid 1/4-20!
Also they make, I believe, "welding nuts", w/ more meat on the outside.
But, a 3/8 nut should give you no trouble.

Ahm no 'spert, but I just spring or c-clamp it in place, use a thin rod,
3/32 at 70-100 A (I think), and weld away, starting on the hex corners.
Don't need a solid weld all around, just 3 or so solid spots.
Actually, watch out you don't burn thru the tube wall, as well. Practice
on scrap a little.
Oh, big tip:
On small nuts in particular, weld them w/ a screw threaded in, for heat
disipation/warpage. On 3/8, may not be so critical, but couldn't hurt,
f'sure.

I've done this successfully w/ 1/4-20.

You may wind up w/ a welding table up around yer chin!!
I really became surprised at how high I like tables and tools.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment
over
| a month or two?
| When you've settled on a height, jest weld the **** out of the
telescoping
| member, for rigidity.
| Or just redo the legs, if you must.
| Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set
screws
| for rattle, and thru-pins for strength.
| But I think you'll like higher better than lower.
| The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark.

| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere,
but
a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the
outside
for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that
came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way
to
get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and
get
it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time
I
did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.

carl mciver wrote:

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere, but
a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the outside
for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that
came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way to
get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and get
it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time I
did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.

I use mild steel square nuts without a finish. They are often
greasy and need to be cleaned. I am usually attaching to an angle
leg or a piece of square tube. Use flat bar the same size as the
angle or tube, drill it out to fit the bolt, and then chop off a
nice square piece with the hole in the middle. This forms the base
of the leg.

For jigging, I run a bolt with another nut on the back through the
hole and screw the nut to be welded on. the first nut can then jamb
everything tight once the nut to be welded is positioned where you want
it. That way everything stays put while you weld. When you're done, just
loosen the first nut and thread the bolt out. Reuse on the next piece.

The square complete with nut then gets welded to the bottom of your leg.

The square nuts are nice and meaty. They are flat on one side and
sort of rounded over on the other. The rounded side goes against
the square piece with the hole in it. This gives the equivalent of
a V-groove to weld.

1/4-20 nuts welded to a washer for 3/4" round tubing are quite
challenging. You have to make sure the weld doesn't interfere with
the leg--otherwise you have to grind to fit.

Hopefully this is clear.

Jeff Dantzler

I like Jeff's idea of using a bolt to hold the nut in place. Silver
solder is still a nice way to secure them. If you are using stick,
you could get a carbon electrode and use it to do the heating. Harder
to see with that than using a propane torch, but it ought to be very
quick.

Dan

Gunner,

Ahm laughin over here, w/ you welding on a table at thigh-height...
I guess iffin yer shimmin it w/ 2x4s, it musta started out at *knee* height!
Mebbe yer usin like *really long* welding rod??
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 14:10:36 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
. ..
| On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
| Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
| 2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for
nuthin'
| today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake
drums
| with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have
different
| tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
| By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a
bigger
one
| for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
| stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a
grinder
or
| vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
| in short supply.
| At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted
to
| know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
| standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a
stool
if
| I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
| six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter
stand
| and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
| which I despise.
|
| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
| makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
| elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
| I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
| if need be.
|
| Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
| works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
| most limber fella anymore.
|
| Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When
I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right
now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended
times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to
work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

My welding table was purchased from an estate sale, and I simply stuck
2x4s under the feet until it was a comfortable height, based on
welding a number of projects.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 09:37:48 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Gunner,

Ahm laughin over here, w/ you welding on a table at thigh-height...
I guess iffin yer shimmin it w/ 2x4s, it musta started out at *knee* height!
Mebbe yer usin like *really long* welding rod??


Im 6' 3" tall. A bunch of it is in my legs.

A 2x4 is 1.5" x 3.5". Shimming it up to the height most comfortable
to me ultimately involved installing a 4x4 (3.75" x 3.75") and a
2x4...under each leg. A distance of 5.25" Which wound up being just
about crotch high for me.

My wife, who is 5'2", can stand in front of it and just about rest her
elbows on it.

Gunner


----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 14:10:36 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
| On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:45:10 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
| Awhile back I discussed building a set of reconfigurable tools made
from
| 2 and 2 1/2" square tubing. I got two semi truck brake drums for
nuthin'
| today and started on building up a set of bases that are the brake
drums
| with the two inch tubing for a stanchion. At the top I'll have
different
| tops that pin up on top, such as bases for my vice, grinder, and so
forth.
| By putting a plate over the top I now have a welding table, and a
bigger
one
| for putting on top of two. Make a tee for the top and I can put even
more
| stuff, like having a base sticking out from under the table for a
grinder
or
| vice. Gotta get more 2 1/2 inch tubing though, the place seems to have
that
| in short supply.
| At any rate, before I start cutting up my square tubing, I wanted
to
| know what folks thought was better, a welding table that you work at
| standing up or one that you sit down at. I plan on making/using a
stool
if
| I don't feel like standing. Also, what is the preferred height? I'm
about
| six feet tall. I could whip up an stanchion extension on a shorter
stand
| and add the extension when I want to stand, but extra pieces adds more
slop,
| which I despise.
|
| Tig, mig or stick? And what sort of welding will you be doing? It
| makes a difference. I sit at my tig table. My 4x8 MIG/Stick table is
| elevated to standing comfort height. About mid thigh level for me.
| I can bend over and around my work comfortably and still use a stool
| if need be.
|
| Mid thigh height to crotch level (will be different for everyone)
| works the best for me..but Ive had two back surgeries and am not the
| most limber fella anymore.
|
| Gunner

I'll be doing stick and OA.

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When
I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right
now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended
times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to
work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

My welding table was purchased from an estate sale, and I simply stuck
2x4s under the feet until it was a comfortable height, based on
welding a number of projects.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke


Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner
wrote back on Tue, 26 Apr 2005 15:45:45 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :

Being kinda tall has always been tough when it comes to work surfaces
for me because while I'm so used to the standard made for shorter people,
it's not too often I get to figure out what would work best for me. When I
learned to weld, the fellow who taught me had a tall table and we both
leaned over on the table, using our elbows for stability, but for right now
my elbow isn't such a wonderful idea as my back doesn't like extended times
being bent over and my shoulder for the next several months will not
tolerate any weight, and I plan on getting a lot of welding practice while
it heals.
I'd really like to have some degree of adjustability without making
things sloppy, but I'm using square tubing and the fit isn't perfect. The
amount of slip fit determines a lot, so if anyone has a good figure to work
with, I'd appreciate knowing it.

My welding table was purchased from an estate sale, and I simply stuck
2x4s under the feet until it was a comfortable height, based on
welding a number of projects.

People will ask me "how high should this bench be?" And I'll hold my
hand at my hip and say "'bout this high - only it ought to be your hip you
measure from." (I got hired to clean up a guy's shop. I had to clamber up
on the benches to get to the stuff on the walls. He's about six inches
taller, and his benches were all custom made.)

Of course, it also depends on what you what to do on said bench. The
electronics bench was higher, but I was sitting on a stool too.


tschus
pyotr


--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."