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#1
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While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill |
#2
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![]() "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill Call a pro and have it silver soldered, replace the dryer if there is one. put a vaccum pump on it to see if it will hold then refill it. |
#3
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![]() "SQLit" wrote in message news:xcNpc.30063$%o1.12716@lakeread03... "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill Call a pro and have it silver soldered, replace the dryer if there is one. put a vaccum pump on it to see if it will hold then refill it. Sure it can be repaired, but with the labor rates as they are the AC is probably junk. Either spend $200 for a new one or pay someone $200 to repair it.Your choice! Greg |
#4
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![]() "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill This is Turtle. You will have to look at the cost to repair verses the cost of the Window unit. Boosty Cottongin here fixes them for $95.00 to $135.00 total cost on 6K btu to the 24K btu. and if you only paid this to buy it. Weight of the cost and see. If the repairs was made by a respectiable hvac repair service. This would not violate the warrenty. Fixing it your self would be a ideal but you need the proper tools to do it right. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.681 / Virus Database: 443 - Release Date: 5/10/2004 |
#5
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"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ...
Hi, While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Hope you where not trying to add some drain holes to the unit! Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Not healthy ![]() Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the compressor. This type of work would probably start out around $100-150.00 The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside, add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks are found. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
#6
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Thanks for responding Jeff
No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is saved. I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well maybe I'll forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one know how to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so that I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake. Gill The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the compressor. This type of work would probably start out around $100-150.00 The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside, add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks are found. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
#7
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When you take the cover off, it oughta be clear where the
compressor is. There is a capacitor near the front, the big one is for the compressor. Note the wiring, so you can get it back together. The wires are usually through a hole, so you need to unclip the wires off the cap and slip them through the hole. Couple nuts to hold the compressor down, and saw off the two copper lines that hold the compressor. The air compressor I use personally came out of a window AC. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... Thanks for responding Jeff No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is saved. I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well maybe I'll forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one know how to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so that I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake. Gill |
#8
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Thanks for responding Jeff
No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is saved. I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well maybe I'll forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one know how to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so that I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake. Gill Hope you where not trying to add some drain holes to the unit! Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Not healthy ![]() The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the compressor. This type of work would probably start out around $100-150.00 The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside, add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks are found. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
#9
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![]() "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill Toss it. By the time you have the hole silver filled, the units coil flushed out to remove any copper shavings that will clog the metering device, a service port added, a vac placed on teh unit, and a recharge, you can go buy a new one...easy. |
#10
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Old Salty Frog writes:
Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? I am just an armature, but I have done many such repairs successfully. Applying a vacuum and weighing in the charge require the costly tools. But both of these can be improvised cheaply with R-134a if you're motivated and assuming you can handle the soldering or brazing. If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get by clamping on a piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber A/C hoses on cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted longer than an expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder on an access fitting, though. If you're motivated, and the unit is just junk otherwise, might be worth a try. |
#11
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![]() "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. Old Salty Frog writes: Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? I am just an armature, but I have done many such repairs successfully. Applying a vacuum and weighing in the charge require the costly tools. Lets see... You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45. OxyAcyt torch, another 350. manifold that is accurate, another 150. scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600 vac pump, on sale 275 micron gauge, on sale, 150 flush, 75 ports, 5.00 each nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250 R22, at least 90 But both of these can be improvised cheaply with R-134a if you're motivated and assuming you can handle the soldering or brazing. No, it cant. 134a and R22 use different oils....and all you are doing by hacking a unit with 134a is creating a situation that will be most costly when the compressor locks up tight. The metering device in a window unit is not set up for 134a and will not cool near as well, or as efficient as 22... In other words, you might think you have it fixed, but you do NOT. If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get by clamping on a piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber A/C hoses on cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted longer than an expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder on an access fitting, though. Sigh...R12 units and R22 units here...pressures are a bit different... That advice is not EPA approved either. If you're motivated, and the unit is just junk otherwise, might be worth a try. Not really..its called illegal...sure...no ones gonna catch him...no ones gonna report him...but illegal it is. |
#12
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*CBHVAC* writes:
You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45. OxyAcyt torch, another 350. manifold that is accurate, another 150. scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600 vac pump, on sale 275 micron gauge, on sale, 150 flush, 75 ports, 5.00 each nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250 R22, at least 90 That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs without most of it. My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating the need for all that equipment. You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines. |
#13
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![]() "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. *CBHVAC* writes: You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45. OxyAcyt torch, another 350. manifold that is accurate, another 150. scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600 vac pump, on sale 275 micron gauge, on sale, 150 flush, 75 ports, 5.00 each nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250 R22, at least 90 That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs without most of it. And that was my point..there is getting it to work, and getting it to work right. My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating the need for all that equipment. 134a falls under the same guidelines as any other refrigerant, other than currently an EPA card is not required (well..it IS, but thats if you read the law and take it letter for letter, and no one does.) to buy 134a. BTW..havent seen but a few 134a units...most under 9000BTUs. You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines. 300PSI....on R12? Hummm....cant remember ever seeing a pressure that high on a R12 system...unless of course, the ambient was over 115F, the underhood was over 300, AND the metering device was clogged with an engine rpm over 2500...with the cooling fan blocked.. ![]() But hey...its possible...unlikely...but possible. Gonna have to go look on the Cuda about midday tomorrow, and see what shes running.. |
#14
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*CBHVAC* writes:
Although my tire patches back in the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines. 300PSI....on R12? Hummm....cant remember ever seeing a pressure that high on a R12 system.. Right, high 100s to low 200s seemed typical gauge pressures. I was thinking of the ratings printed on the hoses. |
#15
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*CBHVAC* writes:
134a falls under the same guidelines as any other refrigerant, other than currently an EPA card is not required (well..it IS, but thats if you read the law and take it letter for letter, and no one does.) to buy 134a. How does the airsoft hobby get away with selling it as propellant? And disposable dusters? |
#16
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![]() Richard J Kinch wrote: *CBHVAC* writes: You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45. OxyAcyt torch, another 350. manifold that is accurate, another 150. scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600 vac pump, on sale 275 micron gauge, on sale, 150 flush, 75 ports, 5.00 each nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250 R22, at least 90 That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs without most of it. My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating the need for all that equipment. "Obviating the need for.." ??? RB You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines. |
#17
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The two freons aren't interchangable. They use much
different pressures, and flow rates. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating the need for all that equipment. You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. |
#18
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Stormin Mormon writes:
The two freons aren't interchangable. They use much different pressures, and flow rates. Right. That's why I conditioned my advice on it on being one, not the other. |
#19
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Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do
much good on copper. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. Old Salty Frog writes: If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get by clamping on a piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber A/C hoses on cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted longer than an expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder on an access fitting, though. |
#20
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Stormin Mormon writes:
Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do much good on copper. A 1/16" hole in a 300 psi line requires less than a pound of force to seal. well within the capabilities of a scrap of rubber convered with a hose clamp. Another technique is to whip with copper wire and then solder. Analysis and improvisation work when the "correct" stuff isn't at hand, or too costly, often better. Many factory parts are cost-reduced to bare minimum performance for the task, and you can cobble up something stronger than the original. |
#21
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I did a line repair one time on something inside a reach in
cooler. Cut open a length of ACR tubing, and put that around the bad part. Dribble some solder in, and it held. I didn't think of wrapping with copper wire, and then solder. Thanks for an interesting idea. I susepct the copper plug will leak enough to be a problem, though. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. Stormin Mormon writes: Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do much good on copper. A 1/16" hole in a 300 psi line requires less than a pound of force to seal. well within the capabilities of a scrap of rubber convered with a hose clamp. Another technique is to whip with copper wire and then solder. Analysis and improvisation work when the "correct" stuff isn't at hand, or too costly, often better. Many factory parts are cost-reduced to bare minimum performance for the task, and you can cobble up something stronger than the original. |
#22
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Should be repairable. But most AC guys won't want to work on
window or wall AC. Sad to say, it may be a lot cheaper to go to the big box stores, and buy a new AC. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ... While mounting and seting up my window framing around the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing. Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183 Thanks Gill |
#23
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I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU Paula |
#24
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On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 at 9:42:59 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired.. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please... THANK YOU Paula Junk it. You can get a new 5K BTU unit for $100, 8K for $150. It would cost in that range just for an hour of labor to screw with yours and it's a complicated repair, if even possible. BTW, I assume when you drilled the hole, you heard Pssssst? In other words, are you sure you actually punctured it? |
#26
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On 6/19/2019 10:18 AM, Grumpy Old White Guy wrote:
On 6/19/2019 9:42 AM, wrote: I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before.Â* Lol Help Please... THANK YOU Paula OMG! You released some CFC/HCFCs s into the atmosphere and now the chlorine is on its way to the stratosphere to destroy the ozone layer. You better hope an environmental whacko doesn't rat you out to the EPA. Â* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And definitely more than you paid for this one . -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods ! |
#27
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#28
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On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 at 1:11:55 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... Â* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And definitely more than you paid for this one . The repair is simple and inexpensive. It is the labor that will eat you up. Way more than what you paid for the unit. That is if you can find someone to do the job. Proably more than some of the newer units. Most small AC units do not have valves where they can be recharged easy, so to add them on or work around that takes lots of time. I would not be sure about how easy it is to solder or weld whatever cheap alloy, probably aluminum, that a cheap window AC uses. And that assumes that it's accessible. Even if you have the coil exposed, the damage could extend into part of the folded up coil that you can't get to. |
#29
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On 6/19/2019 12:11 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... * Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And definitely more than you paid for this one . The repair is simple and inexpensive. It is the labor that will eat you up. Way more than what you paid for the unit. That is if you can find someone to do the job. Proably more than some of the newer units. Most small AC units do not have valves where they can be recharged easy, so to add them on or work around that takes lots of time. * Oh I agree , for you or me the repair would be simple and easy , you also probably have everything on hand except a pair of tap-a-lines . And since the system is empty , you could just use braze-in Schrader valves .. But the OP is apparently not equipped to do this and you're right , labor will eat them alive . -- Snag Yes , I'm old and crochety - and armed . Get outta my woods ! |
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