Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

On Feb 26, 8:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

I've had the same issue from time to time. The cause is that the
blade is "prying" the tile apart, and when you get near the end, the
last little bit of tile breaks off. You have the solution - go slowly
at the end. You could also cut partway from one side and then turn it
around and finish the cut. The ultimate solution is to get a serious
saw - not cheap.

JK

I have a HD 7" tile saw. The blade that came with it had a very slight
wobble to it, it cut fine but would crack the tile at the end of cut
breaking the last corner off if you went a little too fast. I changed the
blade for a better one, now it doesn't wobble, and cuts fine.

With all the saws that I have used owned or rented, the last 1/4" of the cut
is the most critical as there can be tremendous stress on that last little
piece of tile. Caution and slow feed is always the best method to get a good
cut when at the end of the cut.

"Big_Jake" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 26, 8:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

I've had the same issue from time to time. The cause is that the
blade is "prying" the tile apart, and when you get near the end, the
last little bit of tile breaks off. You have the solution - go slowly
at the end. You could also cut partway from one side and then turn it
around and finish the cut. The ultimate solution is to get a serious
saw - not cheap.

JK

Flip over end to end,cut in 1/4" and flip back and continue the cut.


"EXT" wrote in message anews.com...
I have a HD 7" tile saw. The blade that came with it had a very slight
wobble to it, it cut fine but would crack the tile at the end of cut
breaking the last corner off if you went a little too fast. I changed the
blade for a better one, now it doesn't wobble, and cuts fine.

With all the saws that I have used owned or rented, the last 1/4" of the cut
is the most critical as there can be tremendous stress on that last little
piece of tile. Caution and slow feed is always the best method to get a good
cut when at the end of the cut.

"Big_Jake" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 26, 8:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

I've had the same issue from time to time. The cause is that the
blade is "prying" the tile apart, and when you get near the end, the
last little bit of tile breaks off. You have the solution - go slowly
at the end. You could also cut partway from one side and then turn it
around and finish the cut. The ultimate solution is to get a serious
saw - not cheap.

JK

Yes, sometimes flipping end over end and cutting a 1/4" in will help, with
some tiles it causes the glaze to chip when cutting glaze side down, and
when not using a fence or other guide it can be difficult to align the
bottom cut with the top, or it will not work when cutting a 45 degree mitre.

"JoeM" wrote in message
ink.net...


Flip over end to end,cut in 1/4" and flip back and continue the cut.


"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
I have a HD 7" tile saw. The blade that came with it had a very slight
wobble to it, it cut fine but would crack the tile at the end of cut
breaking the last corner off if you went a little too fast. I changed the
blade for a better one, now it doesn't wobble, and cuts fine.

With all the saws that I have used owned or rented, the last 1/4" of the
cut
is the most critical as there can be tremendous stress on that last little
piece of tile. Caution and slow feed is always the best method to get a
good
cut when at the end of the cut.

"Big_Jake" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 26, 8:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

I've had the same issue from time to time. The cause is that the
blade is "prying" the tile apart, and when you get near the end, the
last little bit of tile breaks off. You have the solution - go slowly
at the end. You could also cut partway from one side and then turn it
around and finish the cut. The ultimate solution is to get a serious
saw - not cheap.

JK

The other suggestions about going slowly at the end are good, but I
also found that supporting both halves of the tile for that last 1/2"
works wonders. Luckily, I bought a bunch of extra field tiles to
experiment on.....

On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Might be the tiles. Denser, higher quality tiles from a tile store
will be less liable to chip.

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Might be the tiles. Denser, higher quality tiles from a tile store
will be less liable to chip.


If you are using the fence, make sure it is perfectly parallel to the blade
or it will chip the last little bit every time.

LJ

Cactus Jack wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack


Push the tile with a scrap that backs-up or supports both sides of the
cut, and go slow.

Bob

On Feb 26, 10:56 am, "Andrew Duane" wrote:
The other suggestions about going slowly at the end are good, but I
also found that supporting both halves of the tile for that last 1/2"
works wonders. Luckily, I bought a bunch of extra field tiles to
experiment on.....

On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:

Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

Am I missing something? My saw has a sliding table that supports the
whole tile. Are there saws where half the tile hangs off the edge of
the table??

JK

Big_Jake wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:56 am, "Andrew Duane" wrote:
The other suggestions about going slowly at the end are good, but I
also found that supporting both halves of the tile for that last 1/2"
works wonders. Luckily, I bought a bunch of extra field tiles to
experiment on.....

On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:

Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.
Thanks,
Jack

Am I missing something? My saw has a sliding table that supports the
whole tile. Are there saws where half the tile hangs off the edge of
the table??

JK



We're talking about supporting the *back edge* of the tile when you cut.

Bob

On Feb 26, 5:39 pm, zxcvbob wrote:
Big_Jake wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:56 am, "Andrew Duane" wrote:
The other suggestions about going slowly at the end are good, but I
also found that supporting both halves of the tile for that last 1/2"
works wonders. Luckily, I bought a bunch of extra field tiles to
experiment on.....

On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:

Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.
Thanks,
Jack

Am I missing something? My saw has a sliding table that supports the
whole tile. Are there saws where half the tile hangs off the edge of
the table??

JK

We're talking about supporting the *back edge* of the tile when you cut.

Bob

But both the OP and Andrew talk about supporting the tile at the END
of the cut. You push the table forward, and the tile goes into the
blade, sometimes hanging off the table at the start of the cut. At
the end of the cut, the tile is better supported than at any time
during the cut. Is there another type of wet saw with a different
type of table?

JK

Big_Jake wrote:
But both the OP and Andrew talk about supporting the tile at the END
of the cut. You push the table forward, and the tile goes into the
blade, sometimes hanging off the table at the start of the cut. At
the end of the cut, the tile is better supported than at any time
during the cut. Is there another type of wet saw with a different
type of table?

Sure. There are bridge saws (like a RAS)...saw moves, tile doesn't.
There are saws with a non-moving table with fence (like a wood table
saw), tile is pushed into the blade along the fence.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Big_Jake wrote:
On Feb 26, 5:39 pm, zxcvbob wrote:
Big_Jake wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:56 am, "Andrew Duane" wrote:
The other suggestions about going slowly at the end are good, but I
also found that supporting both halves of the tile for that last 1/2"
works wonders. Luckily, I bought a bunch of extra field tiles to
experiment on.....
On Feb 26, 9:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wet tile saw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depot saw. The saw does a great job of cutting;
however, on some types of tile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off the tile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down the tile feed to a creep as I approach the edge of the
tile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.
Thanks,
Jack
Am I missing something? My saw has a sliding table that supports the
whole tile. Are there saws where half the tile hangs off the edge of
the table??
JK
We're talking about supporting the *back edge* of the tile when you cut.

Bob

But both the OP and Andrew talk about supporting the tile at the END
of the cut. You push the table forward, and the tile goes into the
blade, sometimes hanging off the table at the start of the cut. At
the end of the cut, the tile is better supported than at any time
during the cut. Is there another type of wet saw with a different
type of table?

JK



Put another scrap tile firmly behind the one you're cutting, so as the
blade breaks thru the first tile it starts cutting the scrap.
(Actually, it starts cutting the scrap before it finishes the first
tile.) The scrap will support the back edge of the one you are cutting.

The tile is already fully supported from the bottom at the end of the
cut. You need to also support the back edge if your tiles are chipping.
That's the best i can explain it. Good luck.

Bob

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone! I'll give these ideas a
try.

Jack

On Feb 26, 10:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:
Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wettilesaw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depotsaw. Thesawdoes a great job of cutting;
however, on some types oftile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off thetile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down thetilefeed to a creep as I approach the edge of thetile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

Are you cutting porcelain? When you cutting hard porcelain on your
tile saw the diamond in the blade will start to round over. You may
need to use a dressing stone on the blade. It is an abrasive stick
that you cut into with your blade. This will expose new diamond and
should help with the breaking of the tile. Contractors Direct carries
a good one a target="_blank" href=http://www.contractorsdirect.com/
Siri-True-Blue-Dressing-Stonehttp://www.contractorsdirect.com/Siri-
True-Blue-Dressing-Stone/a. They also have a cool comparison chart
on a target="_blank" href=http://209.35.48.178/BERT/saw-comparison/
tile-saw1.htmltile saws/a.

On Mar 16, 4:23 pm, wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:

Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wettilesaw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depotsaw. Thesawdoes a great job of cutting;
however, on some types oftile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off thetile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down thetilefeed to a creep as I approach the edge of thetile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

Are you cutting porcelain? When you cutting hard porcelain on your
tile saw the diamond in the blade will start to round over. You may
need to use a dressing stone on the blade. It is an abrasive stick
that you cut into with your blade. This will expose new diamond and
should help with the breaking of the tile. Contractors Direct carries
a good one a target="_blank" href=http://www.contractorsdirect.com/
Siri-True-Blue-Dressing-Stonehttp://www.contractorsdirect.com/Siri-
True-Blue-Dressing-Stone/a. They also have a cool comparison chart
on a target="_blank" href=http://209.35.48.178/BERT/saw-comparison/
tile-saw1.htmltile saws/a.

On Mar 16, 4:27 pm, wrote:
On Mar 16, 4:23 pm, wrote: On Feb 26, 10:24 am, "Cactus Jack" wrote:

Hello, all. I recently bought a 7" wettilesaw. Nothing fancy, just
an inexpensive Home Depotsaw. Thesawdoes a great job of cutting;
however, on some types oftile, at the end of the cut it tends to chip
or break a corner off thetile. Does anyone know a way to prevent
this from happening? The only thing I've found that seems to help is
to slow down thetilefeed to a creep as I approach the edge of thetile, but this does not always prevent the chipping.

Thanks,
Jack

Are you cutting porcelain? When you cutting hard porcelain on your
tile saw the diamond in the blade will start to round over. You may
need to use a dressing stone on the blade. It is an abrasive stick
that you cut into with your blade. This will expose new diamond and
should help with the breaking of the tile. Contractors Direct carries
a good one a target="_blank" href=http://www.contractorsdirect.com/
Siri-True-Blue-Dressing-Stonehttp://www.contractorsdirect.com/Siri-
True-Blue-Dressing-Stone/a. They also have a cool comparison chart
on a target="_blank" href=http://209.35.48.178/BERT/saw-comparison/
tile-saw1.htmltile saws/a.

Try cutting 1/3 from one side and 1/3 from the other and finish in the
center. Experiment cutting different ways until you find one that
works. also try not to put too much hand pressure or saw blade
pressure on the tiles.

replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ut-198524-.htm

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade

--

It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:33 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

What kind of grout do you use in a head wound?

Cousin Splitting-Headache Monster

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:38:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:33 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

What kind of grout do you use in a head wound?

Cousin Splitting-Headache Monster

I think it's collagen based. Made from cow bones. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bovine Monster

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:48:57 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:38:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:33 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

What kind of grout do you use in a head wound?

Cousin Splitting-Headache Monster

I think it's collagen based. Made from cow bones. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bovine Monster

Speaking of substances from animals...

I just found out about an interesting property of the blue blood from the
Horseshoe Crab. The show I was watching says that it is worth $15,000/liter.

Apparently a substance is extracted from the blood which turns into a gel
almost instantaneously when in the presence of the most minuscule amounts
of bacteria. Pharmaceutical and food companies use the substance because
it is the fastest and most sensitive test for the bacteria that there is.

The "rack" used for the extraction process is pretty cool.

http://www.theatlantic.com/technolog...arvest/284078/

Cousin Blood-Letting Monster

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:36 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:48:57 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:38:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:33 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

What kind of grout do you use in a head wound?

Cousin Splitting-Headache Monster

I think it's collagen based. Made from cow bones. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bovine Monster

Speaking of substances from animals...

I just found out about an interesting property of the blue blood from the
Horseshoe Crab. The show I was watching says that it is worth $15,000/liter.

Apparently a substance is extracted from the blood which turns into a gel
almost instantaneously when in the presence of the most minuscule amounts
of bacteria. Pharmaceutical and food companies use the substance because
it is the fastest and most sensitive test for the bacteria that there is.

The "rack" used for the extraction process is pretty cool.

http://www.theatlantic.com/technolog...arvest/284078/

Cousin Blood-Letting Monster

I read about it before and those guys collecting crabs can make a lot of money. Money for crabs. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Crabby Monster

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 3:41:27 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:36 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:48:57 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:38:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:35:33 PM UTC-4, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-4, Swamaster wrote:
replying to Big_Jake, Swamaster wrote:
Your blade probably isn't straight turn on your saw and leave it running for
about 30 min it will straighten your blade
--
It's been almost a decade since the question was asked. I assume he's done with
his tile job by now.

Jack was killed in a freak accident 5 years ago. The tile saw he was using malfunctioned slinging the saw blade at him and slicing his head in half vertically. It was awful. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

What kind of grout do you use in a head wound?

Cousin Splitting-Headache Monster

I think it's collagen based. Made from cow bones. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bovine Monster

Speaking of substances from animals...

I just found out about an interesting property of the blue blood from the
Horseshoe Crab. The show I was watching says that it is worth $15,000/liter.

Apparently a substance is extracted from the blood which turns into a gel
almost instantaneously when in the presence of the most minuscule amounts
of bacteria. Pharmaceutical and food companies use the substance because
it is the fastest and most sensitive test for the bacteria that there is.

The "rack" used for the extraction process is pretty cool.

http://www.theatlantic.com/technolog...arvest/284078/

Cousin Blood-Letting Monster

I read about it before and those guys collecting crabs can make a lot of money. Money for crabs. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Crabby Monster

At $15K per liter, they bloody well better get their share.

Cousin Punny Monster

replying to Cactus Jack, Lynn Burton wrote:
Feed your tile through upside down. Or start right side up and cut 1/2 way
through, flip your rule over and finish the cut.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ut-198524-.htm

Lynn Burton wrote:

replying to Cactus Jack, Lynn Burton wrote:
Feed your tile through upside down. Or start right side up and cut 1/2
way through, flip your rule over and finish the cut.

Do you really think Cactus Jack has been sitting in front of his saw for
*NINE YEARS* waiting for your untimely reply?

You Home Moaners Nubs need to read DATES.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 19:22:43 -0000 (UTC), Sam Hill
wrote:

Lynn Burton wrote:

replying to Cactus Jack, Lynn Burton wrote:
Feed your tile through upside down. Or start right side up and cut 1/2
way through, flip your rule over and finish the cut.

Do you really think Cactus Jack has been sitting in front of his saw for
*NINE YEARS* waiting for your untimely reply?

You Home Moaners Nubs need to read DATES.

Like the ant told the elephant: "If it don't fit, don't force it."

replying to Sam Hill, Lynn Burton wrote:
No, but others who are having the same problem now tend to do a Google search
and read old forums. So thanks for being a jerk!

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replying to Lynn Burton, Sidders3lee wrote:
Rite on man. I didn't read the date but I read the entire post. Thanks for
leaving it up. Nine days or nine years this post saved my ass. Thanks to all.

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replying to Lynn Burton, laf wrote:
Truth. Thanks for your help, Lynn.

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replying to Sam Hill, Jack P wrote:
No, but I am here facing the same issue in December 2016 :-) so the late
comments are helpful.

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"Jack P" m wrote in
message oups.com..
..
replying to Sam Hill, Jack P wrote:
No, but I am here facing the same issue in December 2016 :-) so the late
comments are helpful.

You need to cut slowly and gently at the end. Better is to back up the
final edge with something else, a piece of wood will do, so the blade
doesn't blow out the tile. Another way is to stop the cut an inch or so
from the end, turn it 180 degrees and finish the cut. If you were getting
wedge shaped blowouts, try cutting it bottom up; that can leave the top of
the tile good, blowing out the bottom of the edge which won't show and which
will just get filled with grout.

Finally, if your tile can be cut via score and snap, dump the wet saw and do
that, It is faster and you get better edges.

replying to Lynn Burton, Mh wrote:
It's 2017 and I'm just reading this for my project

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On 11/15/2017 1:14 PM, Mh wrote:
replying to Lynn Burton, Mh wrote:
It's 2017 and I'm just reading this for my project

If your saw is breaking the tile you need to ease off pushing as you
reach the end of your cut .

Â* --

Â* Snag

On Wed, 15 Nov 2017 13:32:34 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 11/15/2017 1:14 PM, Mh wrote:
replying to Lynn Burton, Mh wrote:
It's 2017 and I'm just reading this for my project

If your saw is breaking the tile you need to ease off pushing as you
reach the end of your cut .

* --

* Snag

Gold star to Snag. Relax at the end and ease into the final part of
the cut.

Mh posted for all of us...



replying to Lynn Burton, Mh wrote:
It's 2017 and I'm just reading this for my project

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Thank you for this information. What is your project? Have you investigated
news readers?

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Tekkie

replying to Lynn Burton, Michael Biese wrote:
I was thinking the same thing Lynn...now its been over 10 years since the
original question,
and I got the answer I was looking for.

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replying to Lynn Burton, LMAO wrote:
Good point...

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