A while back I wrote on how to remove the cd tray from my AIWA NSX-V70
stereo.

It was suggested that I remove the lip from the front of the tray and then
slide the tray back into the stereo and lift out. Having finally had time
to look at this again, it's a no go.

Altho the lipcomes off just fine, you cannot slide the tray back into the
stereo any further than during normal operation. There are plastic stops
at the back of the slide which keep the tray from going in any furher.
And, of course, the mechanism into which the cd is lifted during playback
is in the way from lifting the tray out.

Any other suggestions? Do I have to take the whole thing apart just to ge
tthe tray out? What I am trying to get to is the motor/gears that actually
rotate the cd tray. Something is brokn in there such that the tray no
longer rotates. Instead, I get hear the motor turning and sometimes hear a
grinding. I can see a pulley hanging out the front of the player when the
tray is fully extended (presumably, this pulley is part of what allows the
tray to rotate). Hopefully, I can either get the pulley back on there,
replace a gear, glue some plastic back together, etc.

Thoughts?

Thanks, again!

--
********************************
David William Botsch

********************************

Most 3-discs Aiwa's go something like this:

Do remove the front lip of the tray. This may require manually turning a
gear from underneath. It's a bit hard to find, but it's there, a white one
with about 1/4 of it showing through a hole in the big black plastic
subchassis, when viewed from underneath the mech.
Remove the countersunk screws at the sides of the chassis, near the front.
Remove the two or three screws at the rear.
Unplug the flat cables which go to the cd section. The smaller one should
probably be unplugged at the main board. The larger one must be unplugged at
the CD board.
You can now lift up the rear of the mech and pull it out towards the rear.

Once you get the mech out, you can remove the tray by pressing the two tabs
at the rear lower edge of the tray and pulling the tray forward out of the
larger mech chassis.

When you look underneath the tray, you'll probably see that the belt is WAY
too large. I've never quite figured this one out - that is, how did it ever
work in the first place? It doesn't seem stretched.

Anyway, you'll need to replace the belt, clean any excess grease from the
pulleys, etc, and maybe replace the flex cable as well, they had lots of
problems with those.

On re-assembly, you'll likely have problems with the mech timing of the
tray. As I recall, there is a triangular arrow on a (blue?) gear which must
point exactly at the 3 o'clock position when you slide the tray in. It may
take a few tries to get it right.

Union Electronics is an Aiwa distributor, 800-648-6657. Maybe they can fax
you a drawing to help order parts.

Whew!


Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Dave Botsch" wrote in message
news
A while back I wrote on how to remove the cd tray from my AIWA NSX-V70
stereo.

It was suggested that I remove the lip from the front of the tray and then
slide the tray back into the stereo and lift out. Having finally had time
to look at this again, it's a no go.

Altho the lipcomes off just fine, you cannot slide the tray back into the
stereo any further than during normal operation. There are plastic stops
at the back of the slide which keep the tray from going in any furher.
And, of course, the mechanism into which the cd is lifted during playback
is in the way from lifting the tray out.

Any other suggestions? Do I have to take the whole thing apart just to ge
tthe tray out? What I am trying to get to is the motor/gears that actually
rotate the cd tray. Something is brokn in there such that the tray no
longer rotates. Instead, I get hear the motor turning and sometimes hear a
grinding. I can see a pulley hanging out the front of the player when the
tray is fully extended (presumably, this pulley is part of what allows the
tray to rotate). Hopefully, I can either get the pulley back on there,
replace a gear, glue some plastic back together, etc.

Thoughts?

Thanks, again!

--
********************************
David William Botsch

********************************

Thanks... will give it a shot hopefully next weekend (and let's hope te
cats don't decide to play inside the stereo while I've got it apart)

On Mon, 05 Jul 2004 20:15:10 -0500, Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

Most 3-discs Aiwa's go something like this:

Do remove the front lip of the tray. This may require manually turning a
gear from underneath. It's a bit hard to find, but it's there, a white one
with about 1/4 of it showing through a hole in the big black plastic
subchassis, when viewed from underneath the mech.
Remove the countersunk screws at the sides of the chassis, near the front.
Remove the two or three screws at the rear.
Unplug the flat cables which go to the cd section. The smaller one should
probably be unplugged at the main board. The larger one must be unplugged at
the CD board.
You can now lift up the rear of the mech and pull it out towards the rear.

Once you get the mech out, you can remove the tray by pressing the two tabs
at the rear lower edge of the tray and pulling the tray forward out of the
larger mech chassis.

When you look underneath the tray, you'll probably see that the belt is WAY
too large. I've never quite figured this one out - that is, how did it ever
work in the first place? It doesn't seem stretched.

Anyway, you'll need to replace the belt, clean any excess grease from the
pulleys, etc, and maybe replace the flex cable as well, they had lots of
problems with those.

On re-assembly, you'll likely have problems with the mech timing of the
tray. As I recall, there is a triangular arrow on a (blue?) gear which must
point exactly at the 3 o'clock position when you slide the tray in. It may
take a few tries to get it right.

Union Electronics is an Aiwa distributor, 800-648-6657. Maybe they can fax
you a drawing to help order parts.

Whew!


Mark Z.

--
********************************
David William Botsch

********************************