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table saw push stick or push block or ???
no doubt this topic comes up once in a while
here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Electric Comet wrote in
: no doubt this topic comes up once in a while here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...11-push-stick- plans-save-your-paws-from-table-saws I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle. I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 11:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
no doubt this topic comes up once in a while here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead cat as a push block. Is my memory faulty? |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
no doubt this topic comes up once in a while here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site. But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure as well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 01 Aug 2015 16:47:34 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle. I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts. i will try that but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:16:50 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site. i had no problems but i do use adblock But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure my plywood one does that as well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade. i think i made the push stick for cutting some small pieces |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
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table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...9 28011997682 -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Swingman wrote in
: On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote: I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/ EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way. I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board. That's for the table saw. For the bandsaw and router table I just use any handy piece of scrap with a flat side. On the jointer I use push pads on top of the stock. John |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400
"J. Clarke" wrote: The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included surprising that most links still work In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut. someday i will try a featherboard i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel or some other surprising way |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Electric Comet wrote in news:mpivt2$3hi$1
@dont-email.me: On 01 Aug 2015 16:47:34 GMT Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle. I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts. i will try that but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip The tang actually does the pushing. The length of the push stick allows me to put pressure away from the edge of the board to prevent lifting. No need for sandpaper. If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like you can with a feather board. Puckdroper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Swingman wrote in : On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote: I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/ EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way. I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board. And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle is more on top. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2" Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut away, in width. It is getting close to retirement. An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade. Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Swingman wrote in : On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote: I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/ EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way. I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board. And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle is more on top. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2" Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut away, in width. It is getting close to retirement. An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade. Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 4:24 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400 "J. Clarke" wrote: The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included surprising that most links still work In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut. someday i will try a featherboard i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel or some other surprising way I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can really improve your cuts. FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste side edge and could be dangerous. If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says... On 8/1/2015 4:24 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400 "J. Clarke" wrote: The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included surprising that most links still work In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut. someday i will try a featherboard i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel or some other surprising way I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can really improve your cuts. FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste side edge and could be dangerous. If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade. I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
"J. Clarke" wrote in
: I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:
*snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
In article . com,
Puckdropper says... "J. Clarke" wrote in : I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing. Puckdropper But "buy one" means that one can use "costs something" as an excuse not to use them. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 2:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote: It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead cat as a push block. Is my memory faulty? Nope - not faulty at all. Wasn't that something like 101 Ways To Use A Dead Cat? I believe that was it. I am still using some of the advice from that thread ;-) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 08:36:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote: no doubt this topic comes up once in a while here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best which style do you reach for I have a couple fiberglass ones, one with a magnet in the handle. It's stuck to the side of the table, right next to the remote control for the dust collector (also stuck on with magnets). The other sits on top of the fence. I like them where they're handy (and I know where they are). |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They aren't intended to fix kick-back. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft, yesterday. http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/15 9:41 PM, krw wrote:
http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They aren't intended to fix kick-back. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft, yesterday. http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm Well, I guess you could spend 300 bucks on those or make a shoe in 5 minutes out of a buck's worth of scrap wood. I stand by what I said. Those crow's mouth type push sticks are for those who don't like being able to count to ten. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
krw wrote in
: http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They aren't intended to fix kick-back. They aren't intended to encourage kick-back, either, but that's what those dangerous birdsmouth push sticks do. If you put downward pressure on the very edge of something like a board, the board will tend to lift at the opposite end. Considering how easy it is to make a push device that fixes that problem, there's no reason to ever use the birdsmouth style push stick. Ever. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft, yesterday. http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm The best saw to use the birdsmouth push sticks on is the compound miter saw. Hold it square against the fence, and make a cut. Now you've got a scrap to use to double check the squareness of the fence. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
web.com: "J. Clarke" wrote in : I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing. Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp to the router table or a fence or other places where there isn't a slot. Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and effective they are for controlling the work. John |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
eb.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... Yeah, I had one like that, too. I think Delta used to supply a drawing for that style stick in their manuals (cut it out of the manual, glue to a piece of plywood, cut plywood to make stick). I never felt comfortable with it. John |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way. I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board. Over 60 years of using that/similar design on a table saw and that has never been an issue. Different strokes ... folks should use what is comfortable for them. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
In article ,
says... Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in eb.com: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... Yeah, I had one like that, too. I think Delta used to supply a drawing for that style stick in their manuals (cut it out of the manual, glue to a piece of plywood, cut plywood to make stick). I never felt comfortable with it. John The delta manual with that plan is one of the links from the article. That's actually similar to the design I use to move "well controlled" stock through. With featherboards on top and side the board isn't going anyewhere unless it rips the fence off in the process and the notch helps me keep the stick where I want it. But sometimes the stick has to be narrow to push under the featherboard (yeah, I know, I need to make up some thinner featherboards for those cuts. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 13:39:54 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in aweb.com: "J. Clarke" wrote in : I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing. Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp to the router table or a fence or other places where there isn't a slot. The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops, obviously), too. Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and effective they are for controlling the work. I use featherboards on the fence, too, but have to be careful so they don't lift the fence. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:45:19 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 8/1/15 9:41 PM, krw wrote: http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet: *snip* Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They aren't intended to fix kick-back. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft, yesterday. http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm Well, I guess you could spend 300 bucks on those or make a shoe in 5 minutes out of a buck's worth of scrap wood. $250 at Woodcraft but yes, they're expensive. They also do the job of the featherboards (in both planes). I stand by what I said. Those crow's mouth type push sticks are for those who don't like being able to count to ten. Nonsense. As long as your fingers never go past the blade you're not going to get 'em chopped off. Push sticks keep them out of the blade. You might get hit in the gut with a hunk of board but that's why it's good not to stand behind the workpiece. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 02 Aug 2015 11:15:11 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: krw wrote in : http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand. The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They aren't intended to fix kick-back. They aren't intended to encourage kick-back, either, but that's what those dangerous birdsmouth push sticks do. If you put downward pressure on the very edge of something like a board, the board will tend to lift at the opposite end. If the piece is that warped, perhaps. The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down. Considering how easy it is to make a push device that fixes that problem, there's no reason to ever use the birdsmouth style push stick. Ever. Disagree. Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft, yesterday. http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm The best saw to use the birdsmouth push sticks on is the compound miter saw. Hold it square against the fence, and make a cut. Now you've got a scrap to use to double check the squareness of the fence. Perhaps a square is a better tool? |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
John McCoy wrote:
Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp to the router table or a fence or other places where there isn't a slot. That's what I use. I made my own out of scrap of 1x4. They work like a top. Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and effective they are for controlling the work. Absolutely. The older I get, the less inclined to take some of the chances I used to take in my younger years. I've come to really like my featherboards and my claw that I push with. -- -Mike- |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 10:29 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 13:39:54 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy wrote: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in web.com: "J. Clarke" wrote in : I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_. Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing. Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp to the router table or a fence or other places where there isn't a slot. The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops, obviously), too. Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me. Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4" thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot and is less than 3/4" thick. Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and effective they are for controlling the work. I use featherboards on the fence, too, but have to be careful so they don't lift the fence. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote:
The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down. Exactly. What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to lift and throw it? Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against the table surface when cutting. I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front. Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/15 11:27 AM, Leon wrote:
The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops, obviously), too. Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me. Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4" thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot and is less than 3/4" thick. Someone sells long, steel miter slots inserts that lock into the slot and bridge that gap for magnetic feather boards. I'll have to find the link for these, I was going to get some but the move made me forget. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 12:33 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front. Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? I have both types. Once I made the shoe type, I don't think I ever used the bird again. The one I made has a handle like a handsaw and you can get a firm grip on it. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 11:33:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote: The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down. Exactly. What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to lift and throw it? If I suspect that anything bad could happen, a featherboard. If the stock is true, I don't bother. Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against the table surface when cutting. Featherboards. I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front. I will use two push sticks. One to push and one to hold down near the blade. I have a strict rule when using the table saw; no fingers beyond the blade until it stops spinning. Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote:
Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. |
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