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Advice on pantry needed (0/1)
I have this old pantry cupboard that I am re-building, and I decided to add thick doors that will hold cans and small boxes. The front of the doors will have panels matching the rest of the kitchen. (old pine) I'm kind of designing and building as I go... it's a real hobby for me! I decided to use fiber board for the partitions, as you can see in the photos. Any advice on holding all this together would be appreciated! I would like the option to move things around and change sizes if necessary... I was thinking of maybe dowel pegs that can be un-plugged, but that sounds difficult to match up. Also, how to keep the cans from falling out but not using a lot of room - thin brass straps or something? Right now everything is an experiment! |
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On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 08:58:38 -0500, Andrew Erickson
wrote: In article , wrote: I have this old pantry cupboard that I am re-building, and I decided to add thick doors that will hold cans and small boxes. The front of the doors will have panels matching the rest of the kitchen. (old pine) I'm kind of designing and building as I go... it's a real hobby for me! I decided to use fiber board for the partitions, as you can see in the photos. Any advice on holding all this together would be appreciated! I would like the option to move things around and change sizes if necessary... I was thinking of maybe dowel pegs that can be un-plugged, but that sounds difficult to match up. If I were doing this, I'd either use one of the many prebuilt adjustable shelf bracket systems (usually involving clips that fit into a perforated strip or into one of a series of holes drilled in the frame), I hate those strip/clip things, the old pantry had that and I tossed them... it was always a pain to get the clips in and I thought it looked cheap! or else construct and attach a series of notched supporting battens something like in the attached sorry attempt at a sketch. Only one is shown, but you'd presumably want a bunch evenly spaced on either side of the frame, at maybe 1 or 2 inch intervals. The shelf could be slid in between any set of these, and then rests in the long notched-out portion and is held in position by the dog at the end and the lip on the frame at the far side. You've given me an idea on locking the shelves into cutouts in the vertical supports... all I would need to do is screw (or dowel) the bottom and top side supports into the sides, and all the other supports and shelves would be stuck good. It would be fairly simple to re-arrange the supports later to change height. I bought a new scroll saw today to help me out. |
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On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 08:26:06 -0800, "CR" wrote:
maybe dowel pegs that can be un-plugged, but that sounds difficult to match up. I have a piece of pegboard that I use as a guide when drilling holes for shelf pegs. You can use a piece of dowel on the drill bit to drill them all the same depth or just a piece of tape on the drill. Clamp the pegboard piece on the work and drill through the existing holes that are in it then do the same to the other side. All of your holes will align from side to side. Thats a good tip, thanks! |
Advice on pantry needed (0/1)
On Tue, 04 Nov 2008 21:20:57 -0500, wrote:
I have this old pantry cupboard that I am re-building, and I decided to add thick doors that will hold cans and small boxes. The front of the doors will have panels matching the rest of the kitchen. (old pine) I'm kind of designing and building as I go... it's a real hobby for me! I decided to use fiber board for the partitions, as you can see in the photos. You could better than 3/4" fiber board, MDF or particle board for the shelves; I'd worry about sag if you put to much weight on them. I'd consider baltic birch ply. You could probably get by with 1/2", or even 1/4" if you edged the shelves. Check he http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm Be sure to check the "shelf and edging diagram" on the right side. Any advice on holding all this together would be appreciated! I would like the option to move things around and change sizes if necessary... I was thinking of maybe dowel pegs that can be un-plugged, but that sounds difficult to match up. Also, how to keep the cans from falling out but not using a lot of room - thin brass straps or something? Maybe just 1/8" thick strips of hardwood, or even pine or fir to match the rest? Right now everything is an experiment! Ah... just like college! -Zz |
Advice on pantry needed (0/1)
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 14:53:33 -0800, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Tue, 04 Nov 2008 21:20:57 -0500, wrote: I have this old pantry cupboard that I am re-building, and I decided to add thick doors that will hold cans and small boxes. The front of the doors will have panels matching the rest of the kitchen. (old pine) I'm kind of designing and building as I go... it's a real hobby for me! I decided to use fiber board for the partitions, as you can see in the photos. You could better than 3/4" fiber board, MDF or particle board for the shelves; I'd worry about sag if you put to much weight on them. I'd consider baltic birch ply. You could probably get by with 1/2", or even 1/4" if you edged the shelves. I already did some tests with the MDF, and the shelves will only carry 5 cans maximum in 16", which is about 5 pounds, so that is nothing, and I already have a ton of this stuff... Check he http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm That's an interesting site, thanks. The deflection on my shelves will be "0" to "0.002" ! Be sure to check the "shelf and edging diagram" on the right side. Any advice on holding all this together would be appreciated! I would like the option to move things around and change sizes if necessary... I was thinking of maybe dowel pegs that can be un-plugged, but that sounds difficult to match up. Also, how to keep the cans from falling out but not using a lot of room - thin brass straps or something? Maybe just 1/8" thick strips of hardwood, or even pine or fir to match the rest? Right now everything is an experiment! Ah... just like college! -Zz |
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