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Default progress...old rocking chair

Almost ashamed to post any of my work here with such beauty and
craftmanship (craftpersonship?) of others but advice and comments desired:

Before and during photos of the old rocking chair restoration. My plan
is to paint it before reassembly with dark blue milk paint, use fine
sandpaper and/or steel wool to create fake wear on arms, back, etc. then
finish with a few coats of wipe-on poly to preserve and protect the finish.

Any advice/comments carefully considered.

Walter.

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progress...old rocking chair-rocking-chair-jpg  progress...old rocking chair-rocking-chair-pieces-jpg  
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Default progress...old rocking chair

If it were mine I would try a light stain, maybe a natural or
golden pecan to show off the wood and then clear poly. I love the
wood not paint.
However......it ain't mine, and I'm sure it will look great.

On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:05:19 GMT, Walter Johnson
wrote:

Almost ashamed to post any of my work here with such beauty and
craftmanship (craftpersonship?) of others but advice and comments desired:

Before and during photos of the old rocking chair restoration. My plan
is to paint it before reassembly with dark blue milk paint, use fine
sandpaper and/or steel wool to create fake wear on arms, back, etc. then
finish with a few coats of wipe-on poly to preserve and protect the finish.

Any advice/comments carefully considered.

Walter.

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Default progress...old rocking chair

Cool.

I like you plan, but if you are going for the old and worn look, you might
consider a different color under the blue, so that it will show a bit in the
worn spots... just as the red shows through the green on your "before" shot.

Please post pics of the final.

Nice strip job BTW.

-Steve




"Walter Johnson" wrote in message
...
Almost ashamed to post any of my work here with such beauty and
craftmanship (craftpersonship?) of others but advice and comments desired:

Before and during photos of the old rocking chair restoration. My plan
is to paint it before reassembly with dark blue milk paint, use fine
sandpaper and/or steel wool to create fake wear on arms, back, etc. then
finish with a few coats of wipe-on poly to preserve and protect the
finish.

Any advice/comments carefully considered.

Walter.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

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Default progress...old rocking chair

Hi Walter,
You've done such a nice job of stripping it, I would hate to see it painted
too.
Especially BLUE. It's not a classic color for old things back in the day.

As stated above, it's not my chair... but you asked for opinions and advice.

I did pretty much what you are wanting to do to this with my dining room
set.
When I bought the chairs they were hunter green. My dining room table was a
rescuee that I salvaged. The legs were so badly damaged that they could not
be stained and had to be painted. I was able to finish the top of it and it
came out nicely with a few battle scars for personality. I even managed to
get some matching walnut and make a leaf for it.

When I painted my chairs black I used spray paint. I found that the satin is
a very nice finish and spray enamel doesn't fill the details like brushing
does and it leaves a much smoother finish.
I created the worn look by using a bit of t-shirt lightly moistened in
lacquer
thinner to wipe away the paint in the places where I wanted it gone. I found
that sandpaper and steel wool rubbed in more places than I wanted leaving
scratches and dust and little bits of yuck everywhere. However, I did use
0000 steel wool for the finishing up of the worn spots and the blending.
I also sanded the whole thing with 600 wet dry paper before the clear coat.
Just make sure your project is good and dry before you start scrubbing on
it. I strongly recomend making a practise piece so that you have a feel for
what you're doing.

Good luck - keep us posted.

Kate







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Default progress...old rocking chair

Kate,

The color is very dark blue, almost black and I thought it was a classic
color. Thanks for your pics, they give me some ideas on where to make
the wear show. First application of the milk paint is on everything
except the seat and I applied a dark maple stain to it and have to let
it dry for 24 hours. I used foam brush so I could get into the tiny
groves and don't have to clean up the brush although the paint is
water(milk) based. I don't think laquer would cut the milk-based paint
but your idea of a practice piece is good. Next picture will be pieces
painted. The stripping job looks better in the picture than it actually is.

w.


Kate wrote:
Hi Walter,
You've done such a nice job of stripping it, I would hate to see it painted
too.
Especially BLUE. It's not a classic color for old things back in the day.

As stated above, it's not my chair... but you asked for opinions and advice.

I did pretty much what you are wanting to do to this with my dining room
set.
When I bought the chairs they were hunter green. My dining room table was a
rescuee that I salvaged. The legs were so badly damaged that they could not
be stained and had to be painted. I was able to finish the top of it and it
came out nicely with a few battle scars for personality. I even managed to
get some matching walnut and make a leaf for it.

When I painted my chairs black I used spray paint. I found that the satin is
a very nice finish and spray enamel doesn't fill the details like brushing
does and it leaves a much smoother finish.
I created the worn look by using a bit of t-shirt lightly moistened in
lacquer
thinner to wipe away the paint in the places where I wanted it gone. I found
that sandpaper and steel wool rubbed in more places than I wanted leaving
scratches and dust and little bits of yuck everywhere. However, I did use
0000 steel wool for the finishing up of the worn spots and the blending.
I also sanded the whole thing with 600 wet dry paper before the clear coat.
Just make sure your project is good and dry before you start scrubbing on
it. I strongly recomend making a practise piece so that you have a feel for
what you're doing.

Good luck - keep us posted.

Kate






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Default progress...old rocking chair

I sure do know what you mean about that stripping thing.
It can be a real pain to get the paint out of all those little nooks and
crannies. Particularly on something like oak.

I'm really looking forward to seeing it when you're done

Kate

"Walter Johnson" wrote in message
...
Kate,

The color is very dark blue, almost black and I thought it was a classic
color. Thanks for your pics, they give me some ideas on where to make
the wear show. First application of the milk paint is on everything
except the seat and I applied a dark maple stain to it and have to let
it dry for 24 hours. I used foam brush so I could get into the tiny
groves and don't have to clean up the brush although the paint is
water(milk) based. I don't think laquer would cut the milk-based paint
but your idea of a practice piece is good. Next picture will be pieces
painted. The stripping job looks better in the picture than it actually is.

w.


Kate wrote:
Hi Walter,
You've done such a nice job of stripping it, I would hate to see it
painted
too.
Especially BLUE. It's not a classic color for old things back in the day.

As stated above, it's not my chair... but you asked for opinions and
advice.

I did pretty much what you are wanting to do to this with my dining room
set.
When I bought the chairs they were hunter green. My dining room table was
a
rescuee that I salvaged. The legs were so badly damaged that they could
not
be stained and had to be painted. I was able to finish the top of it and
it
came out nicely with a few battle scars for personality. I even managed to
get some matching walnut and make a leaf for it.

When I painted my chairs black I used spray paint. I found that the satin
is
a very nice finish and spray enamel doesn't fill the details like brushing
does and it leaves a much smoother finish.
I created the worn look by using a bit of t-shirt lightly moistened in
lacquer
thinner to wipe away the paint in the places where I wanted it gone. I
found
that sandpaper and steel wool rubbed in more places than I wanted leaving
scratches and dust and little bits of yuck everywhere. However, I did use
0000 steel wool for the finishing up of the worn spots and the blending.
I also sanded the whole thing with 600 wet dry paper before the clear
coat.
Just make sure your project is good and dry before you start scrubbing on
it. I strongly recomend making a practise piece so that you have a feel
for
what you're doing.

Good luck - keep us posted.

Kate






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