All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive (gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

Jim K

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
All they all the same.

Chainsaw oil is non toxic when its breathed in.
Like air tool oil is.
They both get sprayed around in the air.


Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

You could use old engine oil but you probably won't be posting here for long
if you do.
Is air tool oil cheaper? It might work.

On Jul 26, 12:18*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive (gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

Depending on the saw, some specialised oils can't get out the
reservoir. Use red diesel. It's just to wet the surface the chain runs
on and lubricate the links. 3 in 1 would do. It works on a bike but
picks up grit and other muck and turns into a grinding paste.

Something light enough to run off quickly would be replaced just as
quickly. The most lubricant lubricant is castor bean oil. You can get
badly lurgied to that. But you can get allergies to any oils if you
expose yourself to the crap often enough.

At least with an heavier oil you might be less likely to skin
absorption. You pays yer munee an you takes yer chances.

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
...
On Jul 26, 12:18 pm, Jim K wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive
(gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours
for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

Depending on the saw, some specialised oils can't get out the
reservoir. Use red diesel. It's just to wet the surface the chain runs
on and lubricate the links. 3 in 1 would do. It works on a bike but
picks up grit and other muck and turns into a grinding paste.

Something light enough to run off quickly would be replaced just as
quickly. The most lubricant lubricant is castor bean oil. You can get
badly lurgied to that. But you can get allergies to any oils if you
expose yourself to the crap often enough.

At least with an heavier oil you might be less likely to skin
absorption. You pays yer munee an you takes yer chances.


Red diesel and 3 in 1 woul be useless. You need an oil that sticks to
the chain - slideway oils were what used to be used (designed to cling
to flat bearing surfaces of machine tools), nowadays the pucka
chainsaw oils are biodegradable. I buy genuine Sthil chain saw oil by
te 25 litre drum on ebay. (blindstickinsect iirc).

AWEM

ARWadsworth wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

the better ones are biodegradeable.

On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I have been using Ernest Doe's own brand Q8 oil lately - reasonable
price of about £9 for 4L. That seems to work ok in the chainsaw proper
(i.e. with oil pump) and in the Ryobi pruner attachement which probably
does not have a pump. Alas I am not sure if Earnest Doe have branches up
your way - I think they are mainly in the SE....

http://www.ernestdoe.com/storelocator.html


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I have been using Ernest Doe's own brand Q8 oil lately - reasonable
price of about £9 for 4L. That seems to work ok in the chainsaw proper
(i.e. with oil pump) and in the Ryobi pruner attachement which
probably does not have a pump. Alas I am not sure if Earnest Doe have
branches up your way - I think they are mainly in the SE....

http://www.ernestdoe.com/storelocator.html


That's more the sort of prices I want to pay. It's £8/l at B&Q and £4/l at
toolstation.

--
Adam

Jim K wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive (gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

I don't do sensitive. When I get the chainsaw out the tree dies. I just
don't want to bugger up the saw.

Even toolstations £4 per l seems too expensive.

Looks like an eBay purchase may be needed.

--
Adam

On Jul 26, 4:11 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive (gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

I don't do sensitive. When I get the chainsaw out the tree dies. I just
don't want to bugger up the saw.

Even toolstations 4 per l seems too expensive.

Looks like an eBay purchase may be needed.

--
Adam

I have been known to use cooking oil when time was tight, tho promptly
flushed thru with usual (new) motor oil thge next day (otherwise it
can get a bit "congealed" around the edges)...

Jim K

ARWadsworth wrote:

All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?


There are different types, the basic is just straight sae 30 with an anti
fling additive, for occasional use a cheap engine oil is a good substitute
but it's wasteful of the additives, a look at the COSSH sheet confirms
this. The oiler may need turning up because of the lack of anti fling.

Otheres are emulsions of biodegradeble oils, these tend to be expensive.

Others still are just vegetable oil.

A chap I knew decided pulp cutting was no job for old men so he became a
mature student at Bangor and did his thesis on vegetable oil for chainsaw
lubrication. He went on to work for tha Forestry Commision and last I heard
some 15 years ago he took a position with an oil company.
What he found was that because of the different charges on vege oil it is
attracted to metal, so you use less. Also at the boundary of lubrication it
actually forms a compound with the metal surface which prevents wear.

Before he worked for the oil company he advised straigh OSR from a
supermarket. I used it until I stopped cutting 3 years ago. I suspect there
is slightly more bar wear and it needs regular use otherwise the saw
becomes all green and furry. I use mineral oil before storage.

Many sites (SSSIs and sensitive water areas) mandate the use of
biodegradable oils.

AJH

On Jul 26, 12:00*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
All they all the same.

No, certainly not.

Visciosity matters, because otherwise it leaks out of most cheap saws
when stored.

Stickiness is useful, to avoid flinging - the oily chain has to go
round a whole bar length and nose pulley before getting anywhere
useful. Flinging thin oil around (why diesel and especially ATF are a
bad idea) also tends to dump it into your face.

I buy the good stuff. It's cheap enough - certainly compared to petrol
and time! If you're really stuck, or you run out, cooking oil is
probably one of the better substitutes. Most oil lubricates, but posh
modern oils continue to lubricate after 100k miles in a hot engine.
Chainsaws are single use total loss, so you just don't have this as an
issue,

On Jul 26, 7:27 pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

All they all the same.

No, certainly not.

Visciosity matters, because otherwise it leaks out of most cheap saws
when stored.

Stickiness is useful, to avoid flinging - the oily chain has to go
round a whole bar length and nose pulley before getting anywhere
useful.

? by then it has done half it's job

Flinging thin oil around (why diesel and especially ATF are a
bad idea) also tends to dump it into your face.

.....as the chain moves away from you?
i've never thought of using diesel or ATF & never had a prob with
cheap motor oil myself

I buy the good stuff. It's cheap enough - certainly compared to petrol
and time! If you're really stuck, or you run out, cooking oil is
probably one of the better substitutes.

yup - good for "sensitive" areas where prize plants grass etc growing.

Jim K

On Jul 26, 1:41*pm, "Andrew Mawson"
wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message

...
On Jul 26, 12:18 pm, Jim K wrote:





On Jul 26, 12:00 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

All they all the same.

Or is there a bod standard oil I can use instead?

--
Adam

depends if you're bothered what it gets sprayed on when you're using
the saw..... motor oil is cheap but toxic in general and may spoil
plants etc.
Dedicated "chainsaw oil" is IME usually much more expensive
(gloopier
& "anti-fling" claims) but can be had in "biodegradeable" flavours
for
"sensitive" (garden) areas..

Depending on the saw, some specialised oils can't get out the
reservoir. Use red diesel. It's just to wet the surface the chain runs
on and lubricate the links. 3 in 1 would do. It works on a bike but
picks up grit and other muck and turns into a grinding paste.

Something light enough to run off quickly would be replaced just as
quickly. The most lubricant lubricant is castor bean oil. You can get
badly lurgied to that. But you can get allergies to any oils if you
expose yourself to the crap often enough.

At least with an heavier oil you might be less likely to skin
absorption. You pays yer munee an you takes yer chances.

Red diesel and 3 in 1 woul be useless. You need an oil that sticks to
the chain - slideway oils were what used to be used (designed to cling
to flat bearing surfaces of machine tools), nowadays the pucka
chainsaw oils are biodegradable. I buy genuine Sthil chain saw oil by
te 25 litre drum on ebay. (blindstickinsect iirc).

Nope.

The saw need a lubricant that is all. A bike chain can cope with spray
oil and graphite as it isn't a fast spinner. But it could cope with
just soap and water. I wouldn't recommend that for a saw but it is
widely used in metal fabrication where mills and lathes etc come under
intense pressures and much more friction than a chain saw would.

The reason I suggested diesel is that it was the stuff used in a
timberyard I used to work in. In fact diesel is the prefered lubricant
in quite a few saw types in a timberyard.

I only ever used silly saws at home and they were quite incapable of
using the expensive axle type viscosities supplied by the seller. I
haven't used a chain saw in a decade or more but I doubt much has
changed in them.

On Jul 26, 3:17*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?

Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?

The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

real mineral or synthetic oil can hang around for years...as can
plastics made from it.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

They've also found a lot of the water soluble stuff (Methane, and some
short chain aromatic stuff) in a layer about halfway up the water
column. They were wondering what had happened to it....


--
Tciao for Now!

John.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit silly.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit
silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit
silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico to
address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the surface*
(JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described above,
the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to be
comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large deep-sea
application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant also
acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but *were*
added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the affected
shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

John Williamson wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in
the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit
silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico to
address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the surface*
(JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described above,
the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to be
comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large deep-sea
application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant also
acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but *were*
added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the affected
shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
John Williamson wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the
tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe
some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil, event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in
the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site
and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit
silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico to
address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the surface*
(JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described above,
the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to be
comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large deep-sea
application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant also
acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but *were*
added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the affected
shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

I never read links *you* post, they are always wrong.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

I never read links *you* post, they are always wrong.

Do make your mind up. You claimed that the link proves TNP wrong, which
implies that you have at least skimmed through it. Now you claim that
you never read anything he links to, which I would believe, given your
total lack of understanding of the content of the link.

I think we should be told which it is. Did you read it and
misunderstand, or were you just talking out of your @rs3?

Or do you have some other source of first hand knowledge on this
subject, in which case, feel free to share.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
John Williamson wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm
wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the
tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a
few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe
some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil,
event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done
in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill
site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a
bit silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico
to address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the surface*
(JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described
above, the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to
be comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large deep-sea
application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant
also acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but
*were* added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the
affected shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

I never read links *you* post, they are always wrong.

Bur dennis, that was a link I posted.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
John Williamson wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm
wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in the
tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after a
few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice
clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and maybe
some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil,
event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was done in
the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill site
and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a bit
silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico to
address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the surface*
(JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described above,
the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to be
comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large deep-sea
application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant also
acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but *were*
added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the affected
shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

I never read links *you* post, they are always wrong.

Bur dennis, that was a link I posted.

Which bit of never do you fail to understand?

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
John Williamson wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Jul 26, 3:17 pm, John Rumm
wrote:
On 26/07/2011 12:00, ARWadsworth wrote:

Are they all the same?
Or is there a bog standard oil I can use instead?
The chainsaw oils are anti "fling", non toxic and some are bio
degradable (the latter you need to remember not to leave in
the tank
over the winter since they can gum up).

I often put dishwashing detergent on my bike chain, then after
a few
shopping trips, rinse it under the hose. I like having a nice
clean
chain. So far it works fine.

Anti fling is OK if you remember the stuff is immediately
replaced
anyway. You are only making a small saving having the slow flow
through. I'd prefer to know I was getting a wet runner and
maybe some
oil flung onto the chain.

But even if I wasn't using diesel I'd only use car engine oil,
event
the cheapo rock oil variety if it still available.

All oil is bio degradeable. Remember how little damage was
done in the
Gulf of Mexico last year when some yanks fecked up the drill
site and
blamed their customer?

er no.. that oil was emulsified with detergent.

Unlikely, detergent is a worse pollutant than the oil.
They may have used some to clean the beeches but the yanks are a
bit silly.



Oh dear oh dear. Yet more ignorance from 'Our Dennis'


http://www.gcrc.uga.edu/PDFs/SA_SG_o...it2_report.pdf

Thanks for posting that document to prove I was correct.
As it shows they did not use detergents on the oil slicks.
You really should read what you link to.

Wakes up
As should you:-

"The way in which the oil was released was compared to the ejection
of liquid from an aerosol can, and the group speculated that this,
together with the injection of dispersants at the well-head (more
below)......."

And:-
"1.84 million gallons of dispersant were used in the Gulf of Mexico
to address the DH leak. Of
this, *the majority (1 million gallons) was applied at the
surface* (JIC-DHUC 2010).
Fluorescence studies suggest that oil in the top 30 feet is being
affected by surface application of
dispersant (Coastal Response Research Center 2010). As described
above, the deep-water oil
plumes that have been observed in the Gulf of Mexico are thought to
be comprised of microparticles
released under great pressure from the well site. The large
deep-sea application of
dispersant is unprecedented. It is likely that the under water
application of dispersant has greatly
contributed to the formation of micro-droplets, as the dispersant
also acts to stabilize particles or
droplets suspended in water."

My emphasis......

The dispersants may not all have been sprayed on the slick, but
*were* added to the waterborne stream. They were also used on the
affected shoreline and wildlife.
Goes back to sleep

So now we know dennis cant read, either ;-)

I never read links *you* post, they are always wrong.

Bur dennis, that was a link I posted.

Which bit of never do you fail to understand?

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the quotation
from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the quotation
from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.


Well you have managed to fool yourself.
A hint.. I haven't quoted anything.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the
quotation from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.


Well you have managed to fool yourself.
A hint.. I haven't quoted anything.

No you have snipped it this time.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the quotation
from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.


Well you have managed to fool yourself.
A hint.. I haven't quoted anything.

No you have snipped it this time.


You just don't want to admit that you are seeing things.
You drink too much.

dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the
quotation from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.


Well you have managed to fool yourself.
A hint.. I haven't quoted anything.

No you have snipped it this time.


You just don't want to admit that you are seeing things.
You drink too much.

Possibly, but I haven't had a drink in..um.. well certainly over a week.

I DID have a beer about last Wednesday or Thursday last week. washing
down a big pork stir-fry...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The bit that clearly says you never read links I post, and the
quotation from a link I posted.

You don't fool anyone except yourself, Dennis.


Well you have managed to fool yourself.
A hint.. I haven't quoted anything.

No you have snipped it this time.


You just don't want to admit that you are seeing things.
You drink too much.

Possibly, but I haven't had a drink in..um.. well certainly over a week.

I DID have a beer about last Wednesday or Thursday last week. washing down
a big pork stir-fry...

Well its obviously too late for you so you may as well carry on drinking to
excess.