I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and top
light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.

Thanks.

Arthur

Standard is now 28mm 4x20x4
(glass thickness x normally argon filled space x glass thickness)

In message , Arthur51
writes
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

Or even upto 28mm nowadays.


What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?


Thicker gives better heat and sound insulation.

Thinner needs a shallower rebate and maybe a little cheaper?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and top
light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.

Presumably an old single glazed frame? Even 14mm would be pushing it
-you need to allow a bit for bedding it against the frame, and enough
space for the bading which normally holds the units in place.
--
Chris French

chris French
wibbled on Monday 22 March 2010 18:58

In message , Arthur51
writes
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

Or even upto 28mm nowadays.


What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?


Thicker gives better heat and sound insulation.

Thinner needs a shallower rebate and maybe a little cheaper?

There is a sweet spot though, where a bigger air gap gives a diminishing
return on the thermal properties. The acoustic properties continue improve
though IIRC.

I know this because when I was evaluating my old ali DG windows (quite small
air gap as was common in the 70's or early 80's) I discovered a table
somewhere that indicated it wasn't much worse (within 90%) of modern DG
units with their massive air gaps (like for like comparisons obviously -
mine don't have K glass).

Where mine fail more is the thermal break in the frame is only 4mm, which is
better than nothing, but nothing like as good as modern ali units. My
overall conclusion was that it was not remotely worth replacing them, even
though I will have to replace a lot of the glass due to it having misted.

If anyone wants proof, I will try to find the table, but it was a couple of
years back...

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Arthur51 wrote:
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and top
light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.

Up to a 20mm air gap, the larger the spacing between the panes of glass,
the better the insulation. Above that, air can circulate within the
window, which makes larger gaps less effective. Smaller thicknesses are
usually easier to retrofit.

Colin Bignell

Nightjar "cpb"@ insertmysurnamehere wrote:
Arthur51 wrote:
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and
top light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.

Up to a 20mm air gap, the larger the spacing between the panes of glass,
the better the insulation. Above that, air can circulate within the
window, which makes larger gaps less effective. Smaller thicknesses are
usually easier to retrofit.

Colin Bignell

"Stepped" units can be useful for shallow rebates. IIRC they don't look
too clever from the inside though.

In message , stuart noble
writes
Nightjar "cpb"@ insertmysurnamehere wrote:
Arthur51 wrote:
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and
top light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.
Up to a 20mm air gap, the larger the spacing between the panes of
glass, the better the insulation. Above that, air can circulate
within the window, which makes larger gaps less effective. Smaller
thicknesses are usually easier to retrofit.
Colin Bignell

"Stepped" units can be useful for shallow rebates. IIRC they don't look
too clever from the inside though.

ISTR some years back a Matthew Marks describing how he routed out some
French Windows to fit DG sealed units in them.
--
Chris French

chris French wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes
Nightjar "cpb"@ insertmysurnamehere wrote:
Arthur51 wrote:
I've read a few posts from the past here and people have talked of
14mm upto 22m thick options.

What are the advantages/disadavatages of thin against thicker
double glazed units?

The units I want are for my timber front door frame..sidelights and
top light
to be fitted into 45mm x 20mm deep rebates.
Up to a 20mm air gap, the larger the spacing between the panes of
glass, the better the insulation. Above that, air can circulate
within the window, which makes larger gaps less effective. Smaller
thicknesses are usually easier to retrofit.
Colin Bignell

"Stepped" units can be useful for shallow rebates. IIRC they don't
look too clever from the inside though.

ISTR some years back a Matthew Marks describing how he routed out some
French Windows to fit DG sealed units in them.

Ok if you've got room for the router body, but you rarely have round
windows. I did a similar thing round a door frame with an edge trimmer
and a 3mm bit. Tedious, but you can get in a lot closer because the
shaft is offset from the motor. They're designed for laminate trimming
but mine gets used for anything but.