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#1
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So I currently have a 74" Pella sliding glass door in my kitchen. After 35+
years it is literally falling apart. I came across a good deal on a "Hurd 6' all wood doors, "FPD 3/4" Insl", antique trim and handle" but it is for a 71" rough opening. I'm wondering if I could add a stud at either end (all on one end?) to make the opening smaller? I figure as long as I attached this ??"cripple stud"?? to the jack studs with like 3" screws it should work fine. What do you guys think? --Greg |
#2
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On Mar 28, 9:10*am, "Greg Kroll" wrote:
So I currently have a 74" Pella sliding glass door in my kitchen. After 35+ years it is literally falling apart. I came across a good deal on a "Hurd 6' all wood doors, "FPD 3/4" Insl", antique trim and handle" *but it is for a 71" rough opening. I'm wondering if I could add a stud at either end (all on one end?) to make the opening smaller? I figure as long as I attached this ??"cripple stud"?? to the jack studs with like 3" screws it should work fine. What do you guys think? --Greg it sound OK to me |
#3
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Greg Kroll wrote:
So I currently have a 74" Pella sliding glass door in my kitchen. After 35+ years it is literally falling apart. I came across a good deal on a "Hurd 6' all wood doors, "FPD 3/4" Insl", antique trim and handle" but it is for a 71" rough opening. I'm wondering if I could add a stud at either end (all on one end?) to make the opening smaller? I figure as long as I attached this ??"cripple stud"?? to the jack studs with like 3" screws it should work fine. What do you guys think? --Greg That is done all the time. You are just adding more support for your header, which is always a good thing. I would add an equal amount on both sides, then you may need some wider door casing and exterior trim to cover the extra width. Be prepared when you add the blocking by running a bead of caulk between the existing trimmers and the new blocking to help seal out air infiltration, then foam the space between door and framing. -- Robert Allison Rimshot, Inc. Georgetown, TX |
#4
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Greg Kroll wrote:
So I currently have a 74" Pella sliding glass door in my kitchen. After 35+ years it is literally falling apart. I came across a good deal on a "Hurd 6' all wood doors, "FPD 3/4" Insl", antique trim and handle" but it is for a 71" rough opening. I'm wondering if I could add a stud at either end (all on one end?) to make the opening smaller? I figure as long as I attached this ??"cripple stud"?? to the jack studs with like 3" screws it should work fine. What do you guys think? --Greg Sure, NP. You don't even have to add the 2x4s if you are redoing the trim...just hide the gap. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#5
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On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:54:41 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote: Greg Kroll wrote: So I currently have a 74" Pella sliding glass door in my kitchen. After 35+ years it is literally falling apart. I came across a good deal on a "Hurd 6' all wood doors, "FPD 3/4" Insl", antique trim and handle" but it is for a 71" rough opening. I'm wondering if I could add a stud at either end (all on one end?) to make the opening smaller? I figure as long as I attached this ??"cripple stud"?? to the jack studs with like 3" screws it should work fine. What do you guys think? --Greg Sure, NP. You don't even have to add the 2x4s if you are redoing the trim...just hide the gap. I would not leave a large gap of either side of the door. Just enough to get the door in and secure it. Even a 1X4 will close/narrow the RO. You want to prevent failure. Thick shims on each side will fail. Less is more. |
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