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DIY Sofa
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N. Thornton
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DIY Sofa
(SteveM) wrote in message . com...
Hi all,
I'm a DIY newbie in need of some help.
I want to build a custom sofa in living room - I've got about 8-9 foot
of wall, a corner, then a bay window, another corner, and then about
2-3 ft before coming to the chimney. I would like to make a sofa that
follows the contours of the wall unbroken round this run.
My plan was to build a number of boxes (along the lines of those
slatted linen boxes that you can get in IKEA) attach them to each
other and throw cushions over the top, using the wall as a back for
the sofa. I could then hinge the front of these boxes, or create
drawers for them, so that we'd gain a load of storage space aswell.
Can anyone suggest any reasons why this wouldn't work, or a better way
of doing this? What wood should I use to do it, and how can I be sure
to build it strong enough to take a persons weight?
Any ideas/help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
Had a DIY type sofa, once, very comfortable. Lasted faultlessly,
unlike most sofas, but of course had none of the pretentions that
modern sofas usually have.
Both seat and back need to be tilted for comfort. So using the wall
for a back is a real no-no. A simple wooden frame with slats is all
thats needed. If moneys problematic, chipboard would do for the seat
bases if it wont be seen. Dont use melamine chip though
For fabric covering it, theres no need. Wood looks good, as long as
you dont stain it, and especially dont use that dreadful coloured
varnish. Wood floor varnish should wear well.
Simple garden furniture type full long rectangular cushions provide
comfortable squish and softness, but finding some that look decent is
another matter. You'll inevitably need to make covers for the
squishies. Sheet foam works nicely, but is pricey. If you use that, do
get the 2 layer stuff, firm foam with a soft top layer bonded on.
The wood: I found 4" x 3/4" works ok for the sit on slats but is not
100% abuse proof. 1" would be best I think. Keeping gaps small helps
for best comfort.
The frame: 2x2, 2x3, or 1.5x2.5 CLS. The CLS comes with ready rounded
edges which saves work if you have no plane. For the others I'd plane
1-2mm off each corner, at 45 degrees. Simple and looks quite good.
If OTOH you want something fancier, you could go to plywood and use a
scrollsaw to cut out all the shapes your heart desires. Tidy up the
edges with a drum sander and you have a typical 1930s type of
furniture construction.
Or if you want cheapass, box shapes can be made from chip.
BTW the simplest form of storage is just a drop curtain on the front:
just lift it for access. Liftoff or hinged front panels are better
though, but can be added later if desired.
Regards, NT
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