Bridger wrote:
Yabut shopmade ones from scrap are free, and you don't have to wait
for the mailorder or settle for a generic product.
Free is good. I'm really spending too much money lately, and I still
haven't bought any lumber.
I make them out of scraps of 1/2" baltic birch. I really like the
stiffness of the birch.
I have a little of that left. I'm going to have to actually go buy some
soon. My source of cutoffs dried up.
granted. bury that POS in a deep drawer away from the light of day.
make a nice tight fitting template out of whatever decent sheet goods
you have scrap of lying around. the 1/8" rim could rpesent a problem
in weaker materials like particle board or lauan ply but assuming it's
continuous all of the way around it should be plenty strong enough in
baltic birch.
I'm not sure whether it's continuous or not. I can't summon up a picture of
it in my mind. I think it likely is though.
and is hardly a job for the random depth feature on my
Crapsman router.
that router has gotta be a temporary thing in your shop if you intend
to use routers to do anything meaningful. (it might be adequate for
stirring cake batter. ask David Eisan...) either you gonna hafta get a
Yeah, I know. I use it once or twice a year, and it performs dismally. I
haven't really missed having a real router though, and it's way down there
on my someday list. I do most "router jobs" with a table saw or chisels,
or don't do them at all.
real router or do without. in the meantime you might get away with
cranking the collet and depth adjustment locks down real close to the
breaking point, and making a goodly sized batch of inserts.
I don't have any kind of guide bushing thingie to follow a template anyway.
So how can I make one of these things without a router? The only thing I
have for cutting curvy stuff is a scroll saw. I can cut close to a line,
but I have serious doubts about doing a satisfactory job on something that
needs tolerances this close.
It would be a lot easier if the table came with a rectangular hole in it.
Maybe I could chisel out the opening. Steel is harder than cast iron.
(I'm kidding, if that wasn't obvious.)
I'm thinking about sucking it up and just buying one of these damn plastic
ones. It would be worth $22 just to save myself an afternoon of
frustration.
ya wuss.
Sort of, yes, but my router is all but absolutely useless, and I can't think
of any other way to make a smooth, precise curve.
Maybe make a circle cutting jig for the TS and cut half circles with it.
That could work, maybe. Fiddly. Not impossible.
It's not spending $22 that bothers me, but needing another $22 when I
eventually get a dado stack, and another $22 for 45-degree bevels and
another $22 for when I want to do 33.275 degree angles for that super
blurfl. Making them myself would be much cheaper.
OTOH, I will need a lot of them, and an afternoon of frustration could
save me a ton of money in the long run.
and get you a better fitting insert than a generic plastic one. and
don't forget being able to have different ones for different angles,
and for dado blades and such.
Yeah.
corners have an annoying tendency to curl up over time. if the
material is going to have any tendency to warp, the amount will be
greatest at the corner....
Oh.
I hate curves. Despise them. Detest them. Abhor them. Right angles and
straight lines are wonderful.
curves are sexier....
I don't want to make love to it, I just want to cut stuff with it.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/