On Jan 20, 9:00*pm, Usenet wrote:
William R. Walsh wrote:
I think you will find that you have a relay in your dishwasher with
burnt contacts. This will prevent the pump from ever getting power. If
you have an electronic set of controls, there ought to be some relays
somewhere.

Since you mentioned that replacing the controller board did not
resolve the problem, I would say that there is a separate power
control and distribution unit elsewhere in the unit. You should locate
this part and see what's inside or on it.

It's less likely but possible that there are fuses protecting each
major circuit in the unit. One of these may have blown. Nuisance fuse
blowing is possible but unlikely. If there is a fuse and it blew,
there is likely a fault in the circuit.

If you do end up finding that a burnt relay is the problem, you can
sometimes repair it by carefully levering the cover off the relay and
cleaning the burned contacts. Unfortunately, opening relays can
involve violence, and sometimes you just can't do it without
destroying the relay itself.

The wiring in your dishwasher should be pretty straightforward (but
this will vary depending upon how many functions it has). It should be
possible to trace out each wire and determine what it does.

* * *I'm pretty sure my dishwasher has just the one PCB. *I've just
spent the evening with the dishwasher on its side, checking for
continuity and tracing the wiring, and locating and inspecting water
tubes and devices. *And of course, drinking cups of tea and eating
biscuits (cookies?). *No wires broken, alas so the mystery is still at
large. *I checked the dishwasher's operation again -- the controller
definitely never sends voltage to the main pump. *But every 5 minutes or
so it fills a little bit more, I watched it do this for 40 minutes, and
then got fed up and had to press the button to make it drain and stop
the cycle.

* * *By the way, I've uploaded the manufacturer's circuit diagram for my
dishwasher at:http://i49.tinypic.com/28r1thw.jpg

* * *Also, here's a picture of the one and only PCB in my Beko "DE 2541
FX" slimline dishwasher, at:http://i49.tinypic.com/30bn60i.jpg

* * *(...Are the black and blue blocks on the left, in lieu of the relays?)

* * *But it is very interesting what you said about burnt relays...

* * *...On the day the dishwasher went wonky, that morning we had just
had our electricity reconnected to the mains grid after a week of being
without electricity. *(They were logging nearby in the forest.) *When
our supply was reconnected, actually *three* things went wrong that day.

1) *A long-life bulb stopped working.

2) *My Bosch jigsaw stopped working.

3) *The dishwasher worked in an odd way for several "clearing the
backlog" washes -- there were longer and longer pauses between the
filling/heating, and waiting for the swishing sound of dishes being
cleaned. *On the last successful go, the swishing suddenly started an
hour after starting a run. *(It startled me, in fact!)

* * *After three things had independently gone wrong, I measured the
voltage of the mains (supplied from step-down transformer from overhead
wires that snakes across our forest). *The normal domestic mains voltage
in England is 230-240 volts AC. *That afternoon ours read 255 volts,
which slowly came down after a several days to 240, and then back down
to it's usual 235-ish.

* * *While tinkering this evening with the dishwasher, I was thinking
that (apart from the possibility of blown fuses/relays) it had to be
EITHER a bad sensor -- an input to the timer/controller -- that is not
performing, OR that a process is not happening (because of a solenoid
etc.) that ultimately leads to an undesirable reading from a sensor.
That's to say "If no voltage ever gets sent to the motor by the brand
new replacement controller, then the fault is because the dishwasher
programme must be waiting for an OK signal from somewhere in the system
that never arrives."

* * *This happens on the simple 15 minute "pre-wash" setting (no heating
of the water is involved, so that clears Mr. Thermostat from the list of
suspects).

* * *Because of the unusual voltages on the day the dishwasher died, I
think it most very probably must be a high-voltage actuator (a solenoid
or a fuse) that's gone, and probably not a low-voltage sensor.

* * *I would very much appreciate anything you have to say.

Regards,

Sandy- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It could well be that the over-voltage has fried some of the
electronics. That's why I always (#times in 45 years) get a
dishwasher with a mechanical timer. NOt as many choices, but a LOT
less that can go wrong.