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Andy Dingley
 
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Default Block vs Bench plane

On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 00:56:21 GMT, "Mike W."
wrote:

Im looking into getting a (Hand) Plane... but I've seen block and bench
planes.


You need one of each. There's a huge range of planes, and "need" is
relative. But if you have a workbench, and you expect to "plane some
timber flat" then you'll be wanting a bench plane.

Everyone needs a block plane. Many people who wear shop aprons keep it
in the pocket, they're that handy. I use mine all the time, trimming,
chamfering, and even planing surfaces when I can't be bothered to
reach for a bench plane.

So for "starting out DIY", then get a block plane. For woodworking,
get both.

Which one would be the way to go for a first timer?


Good ones. Most modern planes are extremely badly made, and they're
just horrible to setup and use.

Fortunately there's a ready market in good, usable, old planes, coming
off eBay (and there's always the toolshop / yard sale route). If you
get a recognisable Stanley design, with no obvious missing bits and a
brass adjusting wheel, then you won't go far wrong. Restoration to
user status isn't hard (Google for it - electrolysis and "scary
sharp" are probably useful too). Old eBay Stanleys with good irons
are an excellent combination - good irons come from Stanley (but only
the pre-war "Sweetheart" irons), Samurai, Clifton (may need some work
to fit them) or Hock (will need sharpening)

Any bozo can use a plane. Adjusting it is the tricky bit. Even when
I've got kids in the workshop, I set the planes up and let them use
them, and they have no trouble at all. OTOH, my first plane when I
was of similar age was a Stanley 102. This is a cheap block plane with
an absolutely minimal adjuster (just a clamp) It took me about 30
years before I could use the damned thing ! This is one reason why I
like the Lee Valley / Veritas range - they have really smooth and easy
to use adjusters with no backlash. So, for your first planes, look
for types with easy and accurate adjustments.

Assuming you have a "serious" budget, then go out and buy the
following pair:

Lee Valley low angle block plane.

Lee Valley #5, or thereabouts.

These are both excellent planes, where the best of traditional design
features has been shamelessly picked over and combined with new
innovations. They're also beautifully made, arrive in good tune
already, and have excellent irons. Price is pretty reasonable too.

This pair will do most of your "making stuff" bench carpentry.


Then when you need a smoother, look at one of Steve Knight's wooden
planes. These are another excellent plane that works really well (if
you truly need a good bench smoother - don't keep them in the toolbag
for scraping paint). Woodies have a bad reputation for being awkward
to adjust, and Steve's are no different. However he also delivers them
sharp and ready-tuned, so you'll have at least one honing's worth of
experience with them running properly before you have to re-set them
yourself. And with Steve's irons, that's a long time. To re-set a
wooden plane, you need a small hammer (light taps are the trick) and
practice. FWW also did a useful article on Japanese wooden planes a
while back, which has some relevance.


Don't buy a #4. The #5 is a better size for general bench work. #4s
are also the most common size of S/H plane and you'll soon find them
growing on trees and under workbenches. There's no need to spend money
encouraging them.


A #92 is a useful plane for rebate work, and as a cheap substitute to
a shoulder plane (even though it's not quite as good). It's also one
of the few modern Stanleys that's worth buying quality-wise (UK
production anyway).

#80 and #271 are others that are cheap and surprisingly useful.

If you work with rough timber, get a scrub plane. Either an old #40 (a
bit hard to find), a modern Steve Knight (I've not used one, but would
like to) or a converted cheap #4 (search this ng).

Buy weird planes as you need them, or as you see one that looks
useful. There's no need to go crazy with a Lie-Nielsen catalogue on
day #1.


Im gonna be doing hand dovetail/box jointery


OK, now you're sounding serious.

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