I did something similar just last week. Attempts to use a large core box bit
in a router for the concave parts did not go well. I ended up using a table
saw.



You can make coves on a table saw by running the stock against a diagonal
fence. Take multiple passes, small bites, raising the blade a bit at a time
and it won't be scary.



A cove, in conjuction with various bevel cuts to approimate a convex curve
can be sanded smooth to an S-curve profile. Build up the rest multipart
moldings.



If you join your painted moulding to the cherry stuff with a coped joint, it
won't matter of the curves (radii) match exactly. Just make sure that the
sharp edges all come together and it will look fine.



I'll post some pictures to ABPW.



-Steve





"Jeff B" wrote in message
...
Does anyone have pointers to websites or publications that can provide
info on making my own crown moulding? My custom kitchen cabinets
came with really nice stained cherry crown molding. But to complete
the room, I need about 50' of paint grade molding. The profile is NOT
standard and only comes from the cab manufacturer (of course!). Even
for their unstained maple, they want an outrageous $12 per lin foot.
A local lumber mill can design a cutter and run some for me, but that
isn't much cheaper since the cost of the cutter set up is about $250.
Theirs works out to about $10 per lin foot.

I just need some $1.50/ft paint grade pine but with a matching
profile. I'd like to look into making my own from stock with a router
and saw.

Pointers needed. Thanks!!

--Jeff