If your shoulder plane rocks, I would suggest taking it
to a machine shop and have them flatten the sole. Just
make sure they flatten the sole perpendicular to the
side.

:-)

John
(Rocks? I remember when I used to speak English.)
--
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in
message
...
|
| Got a new LN shoulder plane a couple of weeks ago,
spent some time last
| weekend sharpening the blade but didn't have anything
to use it on at the
| time.
|
| This week, I had the opportunity to fine-tune some
mortise & tenon joints
| for the headboard I'm building. I cut the tenons a
bit larger than the
| mortises to allow me the ability to fine tune the
fit. In the past, I have
| used a block plane, wood file, and wood rasp to tune
the joint. the block
| plane can't reach to the shoulder of the joint, so
the file and rasp are
| needed for that. The purpose for getting the
shoulder plane was to
| preclude having to go through these steps (filing
never seemed to give the
| flat profile one would like). What a difference!
Just a few well-placed
| strokes, some fine whispy shavings, and voila! a
nice, tight fitting joint
| with a flat-profiled cheek.
|
| Please note, I'm not saying that a Lie-Nielsen
shoulder plane is required
| -- any well-tuned shoulder plane will serve the same
purpose. But, if you
| haven't got a shoulder plane and do a lot of M&T
joinery, it is certainly
| worth getting a good shoulder plane. I'm sold.
|
| A lot of you already know all this, some of us are
just slow getting on
| board.
|
|
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------+
|
| If you're gonna be dumb, you better be
tough
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
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