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wrote:
wrote:
Does anyone have a suggestion other than a splitting maul on splitting
logs? I can't afford a $1,000 log splitter.

Also, does it matter if I burn stuff like Hedge, Cedar or Elm in my
fireplace, they seem to be the cheapest species available.

Actually, using a 6lb maul is _excellent_ exercise, and therapy. For
the
really, really difficult stuff, like black birch knots, I rip a slot in
the end-grain
with a chainsaw. Or better yet, acircular saw- smaller kerf.

I just split 5 cords of birch / maple mix for next year. I normally
would go the maul route however pressed for time I rented a splitter.
It's the only way to go.

Open fireplace is potentially the biggest "matter" with the amount of
particulates
(read "pollution") it emits. For best burning and lowest emissions, in
general,
you want the wood to be well-seasoned and as dry as possible. How you
feed it
matters a lot, too. Chucking a big, cold, billet into what was a
flame-channel between
pieces will certainly quench the flames, and cause respiratory distress
downwind.

For sure. Wood should be burned hot. As well only reload when the last
batch has burned down to red coals.

I happen to use an EPA-approved stove, and find it still requires care
and attention
to be kind to our respiratory tracts.

Yes. Wood burning is both a science and an art. I'm still trying to
perfect it at age 72 and roughly 350 cords of wood later.