"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
7...

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Your idea should work, but you'll have to relieve the cutter if you want a
decent finish and expect the tool to go the distance. If you spin grind
the form, you'll have a cylinder of sorts that won't permit free cutting
because the entire form will be in contact. I think you can see that. Once
you've established the proper tooth form, and have removed half the
diameter, if you have steady hands you can grind relief up to the cutting
edge and hone the form afterwards with good results. You must then kill the
back half of the tool so only the forward rotating half makes contact. I've
done it for cutting gear teeth and for making corner rounding end mills with
excellent results. In essence, you end up with a single toothed form end
mill.

Don't use a drill shank, they are not hardened much past where the flutes
end. A broken tap is good, but they tend to be oversized, but you could
chuck it instead of use a collet or end mill holder of sorts.

If you have some type of device for holding your cutting tool, or intend to
buy or make one, why don't you consider buying a drill blank to make the
cutting tool? They're not very expensive and are of the highest quality,
heat treated and ground to size. The length you get with one could serve
to make more tools if you screw up. They are available in all the drill
sizes.

It might be smart to rough the entire blank close to size before going in
for finish cuts. That way if you do dull the tool, or otherwise make minor
mistakes, you will take the finish cuts with a sharp tool, with light cuts,
plus you can use pins to mike across the teeth to see if you are to proper
depth. It's almost always the best way to make anything in metal. Rough
first, then go back for finish cuts.

Great idea you have, but it might be a bit taxing of your ability if you
have little to no experience. No matter, just keep trying until you get it
right. What better way to learn?

Harold