Tom wrote:


Has any one tried out the Trend M @ T jig? I have one coming from Rockler fot
$299 minus minus 15% = 254.15 total price
$12 s&h.

Yes.

Does that price include the set of brass guides and their router
bits?

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig1.html

You might want to call TREND USA and order another clamp or two.
It's
a PITA to have to move one back and forth when you switch from
horizontal to vertical mode.

NOTE: THERE'S AN ORANGE PLASTIC TIP FOR THE CLAMP IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE OPENING UNDER THE TABLE. DO NOT - REPEAT - DO NOT
LOSE THAT SUCKER! WITH IT ON THE END OF THE IDENTIFIED CLAMP,
IT WILL KEEP THE PART YOU'RE CUTTING A MORTISE IN FROM GETTING
PULLED/PUSHED INTO THE OPENING IN QUESTION. (this will make a lot
more sense once you have the jig in hand and try cutting a mortise
1/4" in from the end of the part)

The theory of this jig is great - the execution - well there needs
to be
some tightening up of the specs and QC - but they're working on
it.
See the "Nominal" vs "Actual" for the three critical dimensions of
the
components

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig3.html

When you get yours, check the distance between the front and back
"plates" on the top of the jig, under which the stops slide.
There are
two nuts under the top of the jig which secure the front (closest
to
you when using the jig) plate. There's some slop in the hole so
you can
move the front plate a little to get it to
a) parallel the rear plate
b) set the distance between the front and read plate to match the
nominal 2 1/8th inch diameter guide.

As for cutting tenons with this system - I'd skip it and use it to
do loose tenon mortise and tenons. MUCH easier / simpler and, if
you use a stronger wood, or baltic birch ply, for the loose tenons
will produce a stronger joint.

If you stick with cutting just mortises the "nominal vs real"
issue
isn't an issue. And forget their bits. Get a 1/4, 1/2 and maybe
a 3/8 inch upcut spiral bit - Onsrud preferably and you've got
most
of the bases covered.

NOTE: There are plenty of parts to keep track of so get out your
forstner bits and router to make something to corral them.

One last thing. The ends of the half round "stops" can, if the
distance between the front and back guide plates are off by
much or out of parallel - stick into the opening the 2 1/8" guide
is to travel in. If they do, it'll put a "bump" on the edges of
the
mortise and make fitting the tenon a semi - PITA.

Just did three bonsai tables using loose tenon M&T joints - all
cut with this jig. Am working on another one now - 16 tenons,
32 mortises per table

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...aiStands1.html

If you've got more questions - my e-mail address is real.

charlie b