In article , Greg D. wrote:
Hi Doug,

Yes, I do have 110V on each of them.

That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two hot wires? Not
the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to hot. If they are
both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V to ground or
neutral, but *zero* between them.

I even looked at the switch and
on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go through
from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something that
prevents the switch from closing the circuit.

Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something preventing the switch
from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there isn't 220V
present between the two hot conductors.

Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button inside I
can trigger and make it work.

Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V, or zero?

Thanks for helping!


Benoit


On Sun, 14 May 2006 17:30:09 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg D.
wrote:
I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V outlet,
installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the table saw
exactly as shown in the diagram.

For those interested in the details, I've got a General cabinet saw
(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1 and L3
screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads properly but
it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to make the
motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one just to
see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the motor just
in case and still nothing.

Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any special thing
to do the first time you start it?

Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really have 220V? Check
the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.